considering a wood floor over concrete, lifting machines up onto new floor

[Jim Andrew]

Have mobility kits on most of my machines, but for my unisaw and G0609 jointer. Was looking for a gap under the machines where I could slip a pry bar, but see none. Do you just jack the machines up by the table? Looking at treated sleepers with dow board between and t&g flooring over. Could build a dolly to slip under each machine to make the move.

[Jim Becker]

How about fabricating a low ramp to just roll them up onto the new surface so you can complete the floor? Yea, it will take some work, but it will totally avoid any lifting.

[James Gunning]

+1 on the ramp. I built a low one for my garage so I could roll machines out onto the driveway when necessary.

[Jim Andrew]

I can do that with most of the machines, but the unisaw and the jointer do not have mobility kits. Wanted to avoid having to purchase and install them, as they do not move in the shop. Main thing is I need to move them far enough out of the way to install the floor part way across the floor, then back and up onto the floor as I get it installed. The building is 26' wide, and planned to use 12' and 14' sleepers, jogged in the center of the building to tie the floor together.

[Jay Aubuchon]

How about driving thin wedges under two corners, just enough to make a gap for your pry bar?

[NICK BARBOZA]

A harbor freight engine hoist (shop crane) would do wonders for you. I've used mine to pick up my 1800lb 16" American jointer when I moved recently, as well as countless other things around the barn. well worth it.
Cheers,
NWB

[Jim Andrew]

Jay and Nick, those are both good suggestions, thanks.

[John K Jordan]

How about driving thin wedges under two corners, just enough to make a gap for your pry bar?

I did this when I wanted to lift up my PM66 tablesaw. I used a hammer to drive in thin wedges wooden wedges made for installing door casings, then lifted with steel pry bars in the gap. Even a heavy tool could be rolled on lengths of steel water pipe or wooden dowels.

JKJ

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

It's pretty easy to lift the edge of a Unisaw by just lifting the table from the side. Just lay some scrap plywood next to it, tilt the side, and walk it onto the plywood, then just slide it around. With the fence rail removed, I've moved my Unisaw out of my garage and into the back of a pickup by myself.
Should be able to do the same thing with the jointer.

[Jay Larson]

When I did my floor (exactly like your plan) I made a shop cart sized to fit under my table saw. Then I removed the extensions to take off a bit of weight. Then I made up some stacked 2x4s and 2x6s that were long enough so the base could rest on them.
Lift up one side, slide a 2x4 under that side of the base. Lift up the other side and slide a double 2x4 under that side. Go back to first side slide first 2x4 out, and slide a triple underneath. At about 4, I used the 2x6s as I thought it would be more stable. Continue back and forth until you are high enough for the cart. Then lift up a side, slide out the 2x stack and push cart underneath. Slide table saw around on cart so it is balanced. Then I made a ramp with OSB to get the cart up on the new floor.

When you have the machine close to the position, bring your 2x stacks over there and do the process in reverse. Yes, it was a bit of a process, and at one point I thought it would be great to have some help. But nobody was available, and I wanted the saw in the shop area.

I did not worry about removing the extensions, as I they were in place but not completely dialed in.

[Jim Becker]

For your saw, you'll want to consider breaking it down a little to reduce weight and make it easier to move...the cast iron wings and extension table, for example. From there, it may be easy to use a hand-truck to move it to the new position and re-assemble and align the components.

[Steve Meliza]

If you have an open ceiling you could use ratchet straps to lift the equipment off the ground then another to pull it sideways as needed. If the tool is heavy use some 2x4s to brace the ceiling joists. Of course a chain fall or come-along would be better if you have one. It may be a bit shade tree, but I got a 300lb jointer out of my pickup bed and onto the garage floor by myself using this method.

[Randall J Cox]

I just bought and rebuilt an old Delta 15" planer this past winter. Almost 500 lbs. Borrowed a friends engine hoist that had pivoting legs (most newer ones do) and used that a lot to lift main planer section off base, motor off onto workbench and back on after replacing bearings, etc. All engine hoists are on rollers. Couldn't have done it without out it.

[Roy Harding]

When I built my shop, I installed a raised floor (and ran my dust collection ducting under it) on top of the concrete. I had a few machines that were cumbersome, to say the least - a Felder CF531 combo, and a dual drum sander being the most heavy and awkward. I purchased a pallet jack, and when the raised floor had progressed to where the combo was going, I built a ramp from the concrete up to the wood floor, jacked up the combo on the pallet jack, and placed it. Easy peasy. I already had an engine hoist, and used it to complete a similar operation with the dual drum sander (which had four lift points on it - one on each corner) - again, easy peasy. I managed this by myself, no helper needed. The pallet jack and engine hoist came in handy for other machines as well - but they could have been man handled by two people. Make your ramp LONG, giving you a gentle slope.

I had planned to sell the pallet jack after the shop was completed, but I still have it, it's handy for a variety of things.