Delta RC-33 planer - how difficult to install Byrd Cutterhead ?

[John Myers]

I have a Delta RC-33 13" planer that I purchased a while back on Craigslist. Nice planer. I'm thinking about installing a Byrd Shelix Cutterhead on it. My question: How difficult is this task to do? Mine you, I am NOT a mechanic! Anyone out there undertake this project who can give me advise?

[David Kumm]

I've done it on a DC 33 and not a big deal. You have to put on bearings or have Byrd do it but a light bulb is about all you need to heat the bearing to aid in the install. The RC 33 is one of the better small planers out there and a great candidate for a Byrd. Dave

[Gerry Grzadzinski]

You can drive a bearing on with a deep wall socket. Just make sure the socket only touches the inner race, and you can pound it on without damaging it.

[jack duren]

I have a Delta RC-33 13" planer that I purchased a while back on Craigslist. Nice planer. I'm thinking about installing a Byrd Shelix Cutterhead on it. My question: How difficult is this task to do? Mine you, I am NOT a mechanic! Anyone out there undertake this project who can give me advise?

Not to stir you away from the planer head but why do you feel you need the planer head? Have the same planer for over 10 years and it cuts fine...Jack

[Cary Falk]

Not to stir you away from the planer head but why do you feel you need the planer head? Have the same planer for over 10 years and it cuts fine...Jack

1. quieter
2. virtually no tear out on figured wood
3. easier blade changes
4. carbide last longer then steel

[Dave Cav]

I put a helical carbide head in a Grizzly 1021 15" planer a few years ago. It's not identical to your Delta, but it's in the same general four post planer family, so the guts are probably similar. It was about a 90 minute job, working by myself, as I recall. Not horribly difficult. Wrap the new helical head in cardboard and masking tape.....

[jack duren]

1. quieter
2. virtually no tear out on figured wood
3. easier blade changes
4. carbide last longer then steel

We have a 50" helical at work. I've just never found the need in my personal shop. You have +and - on your 1-4 list.....

[Cary Falk]

We have a 50" helical at work. I've just never found the need in my personal shop. You have +and - on your 1-4 list.....

Where was the negatives on my list? The only negative I see is the upfront cost which was not on my list. It is debatable if it is more or less expensive in the long run.

[jack duren]

Where was the negatives on my list? The only negative I see is the upfront cost which was not on my list. It is debatable if it is more or less expensive in the long run.

The ideal that the helical is a cure all isn't 100% true.

[Brad Adams]

Jack obviously has never used a helical head. Once you have one you would never go back.

[John Myers]

I do use a lot of figured wood, and do get some tear out with the current straight knifes. I wouldn't mind having the other benefits of a shelix cutterhead --> quieter, easy to change cutters, carbide. Seems like it's worth the one-time expense. I'm encouraged that others have said it's not too difficult of a task.

Wondering, since the motor is on top of this planer, do you need to remove it first? Or will just having it tilt to the forward position (as when you're changing the knifes, suffice?

[David Kumm]

Small planers like the RC or DC do benefit from the conversion as the motor does make the knives more difficult to adjust and most small planers lack a true chipbreaker or pressure bar- or at least a well designed one. The spiral copes better without those. A high end planer with a heavy design and good chipbreaker and PB will benefit far less. I have run spiral, Tersa, Esta, Terminus, and regular straight head. High volume roughing is best with straight heavy knives, finish with spiral or straight knife with an onboard grinder and someone who knows how to use it. With a big planer, I think Tersa or Terminus are the best all around solution. Nicking a Tersa is a lot easier to deal with than nicking a spiral and you can quickly swap knives to save the good ones. I now run Tersa on my 21" SAC and Byrd on my DC 33 which is primarily for small pieces or fine finish work. Dave

[Cary Falk]

The ideal that the helical is a cure all isn't 100% true.

I never said it was.

[jack duren]

I never said it was.

I stated in an earlier post I do at work with a SCM Sandya . But at my home shop I never saw enough advantage to move up and will stick with knives.

[Curt Harms]

I haven't used a shellix type head and feel no need for one BUT I use most straight grained woods like red oak and pine. If I worked with figured wood or one with 'difficult' grain like birds eye maple or elm I would likely feel different. I also don't mind setting knives and only have to do it once or twice a year.