Electric/Battery Chainsaw Reccomendations?

[Dan Case LR]

I need an electric chainsaw for cutting turning blanks from tree trunks inside the shop. I know not to buy cheapie junk, and as much as I'd like a Stihl MSE-250 it's a little rich for my current budget. I've seen lots of good comments about Makita's electric chainsaws, so Makita is a definite contender.

I have a natural tendency to steer clear of battery-powered chainsaws, but I've seen an awful lot of good things said about some of the Oregon and GreenWorks cordless saws. Anyone have real experience with these? Are they a good fit for my purpose?

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

D.

[Thom Sturgill]

I bought an Echo. With the battery it is as heavy as my small Stihl which I can no longer use due to a defibrillator implant. Cost about $300.

I have not done much with it yet, but I was impressed with it for what i did.

[Brice Rogers]

I have a chain saw attachment for my Ryobi 19v drill (actually it is a chain saw that uses the same battery pack as my drill). It is close to useless because it cuts so slowly. It cuts slowly because the blade speed is so low.

I have an AC powered electric chain saw. It is a cheapie - - around $50 from Home Despot . I have used it on a dozen or so larger (wet) logs and - - knock on wood - - it keeps on ticking even though I am not babying it. It also cuts fairly fast, especially if I'm ripping with the grain lengthwise. I'm not advocating going the cheap route and the more expensive saws are surely more rugged. But if you have a low budget, you might be surprised with how much you can accomplish with a lower end throw-away product.

I keep it sharp and always keep it full of chain oil. I had to take off the anti-kick safety device on the tip so that I could slice a log that was longer/wider than the bar length. But I am also paying particular attention when I'm operating it.

[Mark Greenbaum]

I bought El-Cheapo from Harbor Freight ($28 after 20% discount). I cut probably 20 bowl blanks and logs of to 18" diameter. It bit the dust when one of the carbon brushes wore out, and the parts are not available. If yo get an electric saw that requires brushes, get extra brushes up front, or you'll a great chain, bar, and a can full of scrap. BTW: the thing completely ate wood better than a gas saw, and I've owned quite a few Huskies. But now I am saw-less.

[Brice Rogers]

Mark, I suppose that if a person thinks of a chain saw like a consumable item, that paying a buck and a half per bowl blank isn't a whole lot more than the cost of good sand paper worn out on a project. Well, maybe a bit more....

I've been using my cheapie for about a year I suppose.

[Doug Ladendorf]

I just bought a used Stihl but if I hadn't found that would have gone with the Makita. I have only heard good things about them. You

[Jimmy Edwards]

Dan, I may be sticking my neck out but I bought a Sears/Craftsman 18" corded chainsaw with 2 Oregon chains 3 years ago for $89 and have used it weekly since. I have had no problems or issues and I cut mostly mesquite. Just saying. They are still selling this saw now.

[Michael Schneider]

I have several that I like

1) Stihl mse220 - Older version of current high end. This is truely a great saw and very strong. It was pricey, but by far the best. Operates like a 50-64cc gas.
2) makita 2x lxt cordless - bought this last and this is my go to if it can be cut by it. It is powered by 2 makita lxt batteries for extra amps. Cordless is very handy. Toss it in the truck and it is handy to cut up wood for transport to shop. The Stihl does the pre-turning slicing. Note: look at the amps consumed by the saw for power. Corded will beat cordless (for a good saw). I don't like to carry a gas saw in my SUV, so the cordless is handy for prep for transfer.
3) 2 makita (bought together , were lightly used)
- uc4051a - 16" corded - very nice saw, powerful, nice to use
- 5012b - smaller saw, but very fast chain, cuts fast and is very nible, chainsaw carvers use this saw quite a bit.

I picked up a used second mse220 along with the old stihl small saw, both are very nice. It was very cheap, you might keep an eye on estate sales if you have time. I bought it sight unseen for parts if necessary, but both were likely never used.

Makita bought dolmar saws in 1991. Dolmer designs most of makita outdoor tools. I think that is why their newer saws are so good. Their new gas are very nice also. Dolmar was a German company and similar in quality to stilhl. They just did not have the dealer network in the US. You can find equivalent makita models for most dolmer saws. I have some old 50cc dolmers that are great saws.

Home depot rents makita chainsaws (aka dolmer in blue). Try renting one and see how you like it.

If you don't want to, or are unable to shell out the $$ for a Stihl, you might pick up a uc4051a (16" corded) or uc3551a(14" corded) same head, just different bars. And keep an eye out for the big stihl used.

Both serve different purposes.


If you do decide to go cheap and get a harbor fright. I would suggest you buy the extended warranty from them. When it has a problem (and it probably will if you use it hard), just drop it off and they will hand you a new one. Heck, when the blade gets dull, drop it off and get a new one :-)


Good luck in your quest.

happy turning

[Gary Baler]

Keep giving us info. I, too, am going to have to find an electric.

[Dale Dumond]

I have the 40 volt Ryobi chainsaw and string trimmer. Chain saw works fine for me as a light weight cutter. I have cut through 6 inch dried elm. Not tried any ripping with it because not had the need yet. The battery lasts about as long as I want it to. By the time the battery needs recharged I am ready for a break. Having the string trimmer gives me an extra battery. The batteries are different amp hour rated but both are interchangeable.
The motor on the trimmer burned out under warranty but was replaced by the authorized service center.

[Dan Case LR]

Good comments, all.

I spend far too much time today contemplating the options and had almost settled on an Oregon cordless electric when I stumbled over a post where an actual user (not a paid reviewer, but an Arborist) put a new Oregon corded electric up against the Oregon cordless and a Makita corded saw. Very early in the write-up he eliminated the cordless saw because both corded electrics were so much more powerful. In some situations the cordless would be a better choice, but it became apparent that for my purposes the corded would be a better choice.

The bottom line is that the Oregon and Makita were quite comparable saws. The Oregon has two important pluses: it's self-sharpening, and it's half the price of the Makita ($126 vs $247).

So, I just placed an order for an Oregon CS1500 corded saw from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I'll let y'all know how it does!

D.

[brian zawatsky]

I bought a Stihl MSE-250 a few months ago and I love it. Came from the dealer with a 20" bar and it is a very capable saw. Have ripped 18" diameter hickory logs in half at the pith with it, with no problem. Nice that it uses a standard 3/8 chain too.
Yeah it was expensive (and no I didn't tell my wife just how much it was lol), but Stihl saws have a rock solid reputation and I didn't want a toy. Worth every penny so far. Buy once, cry once -right?

[Doug Ladendorf]

How does self-sharpening work, and is it effective? (Honest question, not familiar.)

[Dan Case LR]

How does self-sharpening work, and is it effective? (Honest question, not familiar.)

I've not used it myself, but it comes highly recommended. Oregon has incorporated their PowerSharp sharpening system into their saws. Rather than blathering on about it, here are a couple of links--the first is a brochure on the PowerSharp system that can be used with several brands of saw. The one catch is that you have to use the PowerSharp chain with the system, which could be an issue for some folks. Check it out:

https://www.oregonproducts.com/pdfs/...AD_low-res.pdf

Here's the product page for the saw I'm buying. You can see how Oregon has incorporated the design in the saw.

https://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/p...ded/CS1500.htm


Just pull the red lever for a few seconds and the saw is sharp... at least that's what they say. I'll let you know how it works.


Thanks!

D.

[John K Jordan]

I bought a Stihl MSE-250 a few months ago and I love it. Came from the dealer with a 20" bar and it is a very capable saw. Have ripped 18" diameter hickory logs in half at the pith with it, with no problem. Nice that it uses a standard 3/8 chain too.
Yeah it was expensive (and no I didn't tell my wife just how much it was lol), but Stihl saws have a rock solid reputation and I didn't want a toy. Worth every penny so far. Buy once, cry once -right?

For someone else looking for an electric chain saw: I very much agree with your comments on the Stihl. I tried some electrics and the Stihl was the best, although it did cost more. I've has several brands of chainsaws over the years (including a cheap corded electric) and I decided to stick with Stihl - at the moment I have the electric, two 250s with 18" bars, and one larger saw with a 24" bar for the big stuff.

BTW, I love using a 110v electric at the shop. Quiet enough to used inside, no starting effort, instant off when releasing the switch, cuts very well. I wouldn't have a cordless chainsaw unless perhaps for light pruning away from power, but a hand saw is fine for this any way. Or a cordless sawzall with a long pruning blade. The turning wood I cut in the shop is more demanding.

JKJ