REAXX Arrival, Setup, & Operation

[Rich Riddle]

So the REAXX arrived this past week and seems to work just fine but here are a few observations.

1. Bosch places the booklet to assemble the REAXX in the side compartment where the extra cartridges store, but they don't tell you that anywhere. (Apparently there is a picture on the box that shows the location, but I tend to read and not look at pictures) Since I had a 4100 in the garage, I just looked at that to assemble the unit. Just look it over to take out the blocking and shipping straps. With the stand and saw, it required about 45 minutes to assemble.
2. Bosch shows you how to adjust the REAXX, and it proves essential. Every adjustment on the saw proved out of adjustment. Some were a little off, and some were quite a bit out of adjustment. It adjusted into tolerances in about 30 minutes. The insert surrounding the blade had quite a bit of loose wobble. I placed a few layers of duct tape over the two tabs and this corrected the loose problem.
3. The REAXX has made improvements but still has the same mitre gauge, plastic guard, and anti-kickback devise. The anti-kickback devise and plastic guard attach to the riving knife. You must also adjust the riving knife.
4. Unfortunately Bosch did not improve the design of the anti-kickback devise on how it attaches to the riving knife. After a few cuts, the simple anti-kickback devise dislodged and contacted the blade causing a MIS-fire. At least the blade survived well.
5. Upon firing, it took less than five minutes to change the blade and get the "green light."
6. The saw cuts very well compared to other jobsite saws including the 4100 series Bosch.

Overall, I give it a "4" of 5. The operation proves very good but there is no excuse for the sloppiness in assemble and need for everything to be adjusted. Shipping certainly didn't take everything out of adjustment. The factory workers just threw it together. While the design is good and solid just like the 4100, they need to improve how the anti-kickback attaches to the riving knife. I simple removed mine to avoid costly MIS-firing.

REAXX.jpg REAXX2.jpg REAXX3.JPG

I am not sure why the third image loads upside down. Hopefully, a moderator can fix it.

[Mike Henderson]

Thanks for the review. Please post again after you've had a chance to use it some more. I haven't paid too much attention to the Reaxx but I looked up the price after your post (above) and found them listed at $1,300 to $1,500.

It looks like the Bosch saw without the safety feature is about $600, meaning that the safety feature is about $700 to $900 - if the two saws are the same except for the safety feature. Since you own a Bosch 4100, would you say the two saws are about the same, except for the safety feature?

Mike

[Pat Barry]

So the REAXX arrived this past week and seems to work just fine but here are a few observations.

1. Bosch places the booklet to assemble the REAXX in the side compartment where the extra cartridges store, but they don't tell you that anywhere. (Apparently there is a picture on the box that shows the location, but I tend to read and not look at pictures) Since I had a 4100 in the garage, I just looked at that to assemble the unit. Just look it over to take out the blocking and shipping straps. With the stand and saw, it required about 45 minutes to assemble.
2. Bosch shows you how to adjust the REAXX, and it proves essential. Every adjustment on the saw proved out of adjustment. Some were a little off, and some were quite a bit out of adjustment. It adjusted into tolerances in about 30 minutes. The insert surrounding the blade had quite a bit of loose wobble. I placed a few layers of duct tape over the two tabs and this corrected the loose problem.
3. The REAXX has made improvements but still has the same mitre gauge, plastic guard, and anti-kickback devise. The anti-kickback devise and plastic guard attach to the riving knife. You must also adjust the riving knife.
4. Unfortunately Bosch did not improve the design of the anti-kickback devise on how it attaches to the riving knife. After a few cuts, the simple anti-kickback devise dislodged and contacted the blade causing a MIS-fire. At least the blade survived well.
5. Upon firing, it took less than five minutes to change the blade and get the "green light."
6. The saw cuts very well compared to other jobsite saws including the 4100 series Bosch.

Overall, I give it a "4" of 5. The operation proves very good but there is no excuse for the sloppiness in assemble and need for everything to be adjusted. Shipping certainly didn't take everything out of adjustment. The factory workers just threw it together. While the design is good and solid just like the 4100, they need to improve how the anti-kickback attaches to the riving knife. I simple removed mine to avoid costly MIS-firing.

REAXX.jpg REAXX2.jpg REAXX3.JPG

I am not sure why the third image loads upside down. Hopefully, a moderator can fix it.

I'm sorry Rich. Are you saying you dis able the safety feature to keep it from misfiring? Why? Or did you remove some other safety feature?

[Rich Riddle]

I removed the anti-kickback "fins" since the came loose from the riving knife after several cuts.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks for the review Rich! Like others, I'd like to hear more after you've had a chance to use her more.
Fred

[Erik Loza]

Thanks for the review, Rich. Interesting that it seems to still be a victim of "Chaiwanese" QC on the hardware.

Erik

[Jim Dwight]

I looked up reviews of the Bosch 4100 to get a better idea of what this saw can do. Looks like a very solid option, especially if you want portability. It's capabilities look similar to my old Ryobi BT3100 (which lacks many of the newer features of the 4100 including the quick remove splitter). For my little shop, a table saw like this and a tracksaw for the "big stuff" works well. The one comparitive review I found thought the Bosch was the best of the portable table saws. The options with the blade stopping feature are all pricey at this point but I would rather give that money to Bosch if I were to get one.

[Rich Riddle]

I used it again and found the fence itself to be an upgrade from the previous fence with the 4100. The plastic piece that loosens the small extendable section of the top functions differently. On the 4100 model the plastic piece the operator lifted would then make it impossible to use the fence if you didn't push it back in place (flush). On the REAXX the loosening piece of plastic is "in place" at about 15 degrees; it doesn't set flush. It's much easier to grasp than the plastic on the REAXX and has a better shape/design. With time, I will stop trying to push it down flush to the saw. The REAXX is a bit "taller" than the 4100 but Bosch compensates by making the portable stand lower. In the end, they come out roughly the same height. In function, the REAXX cuts quite well, but that's expected with a new blade (Tenryu) on it. Subconsciously, I must believe the REAXX functions better since it's the saw used with the 4100 only a few feet away. The 4100 has a Woodworker II blade installed, so I am also deciding which blade cuts better.

[Rob L. Jones]

So the REAXX arrived this past week and seems to work just fine but here are a few observations.

1. Bosch places the booklet to assemble the REAXX in the side compartment where the extra cartridges store, but they don't tell you that anywhere. (Apparently there is a picture on the box that shows the location, but I tend to read and not look at pictures) Since I had a 4100 in the garage, I just looked at that to assemble the unit. Just look it over to take out the blocking and shipping straps. With the stand and saw, it required about 45 minutes to assemble.
2. Bosch shows you how to adjust the REAXX, and it proves essential. Every adjustment on the saw proved out of adjustment. Some were a little off, and some were quite a bit out of adjustment. It adjusted into tolerances in about 30 minutes. The insert surrounding the blade had quite a bit of loose wobble. I placed a few layers of duct tape over the two tabs and this corrected the loose problem.
3. The REAXX has made improvements but still has the same mitre gauge, plastic guard, and anti-kickback devise. The anti-kickback devise and plastic guard attach to the riving knife. You must also adjust the riving knife.
4. Unfortunately Bosch did not improve the design of the anti-kickback devise on how it attaches to the riving knife. After a few cuts, the simple anti-kickback devise dislodged and contacted the blade causing a MIS-fire. At least the blade survived well.
5. Upon firing, it took less than five minutes to change the blade and get the "green light."
6. The saw cuts very well compared to other jobsite saws including the 4100 series Bosch.

Overall, I give it a "4" of 5. The operation proves very good but there is no excuse for the sloppiness in assemble and need for everything to be adjusted. Shipping certainly didn't take everything out of adjustment. The factory workers just threw it together. While the design is good and solid just like the 4100, they need to improve how the anti-kickback attaches to the riving knife. I simple removed mine to avoid costly MIS-firing.

REAXX.jpg REAXX2.jpg REAXX3.JPG

I am not sure why the third image loads upside down. Hopefully, a moderator can fix it.

Received mine on Monday, June 6th. (Bosch GTS1041A-09 REAXX Portable Jobsite Table Saw - the -09 version Includes Stand)
1. As soon as you open the box, there is a bright yellow notice that tells you where the instruction book is.
2. My saw was within tolerances, but I did tune it up a little. The insert on mine did not wobble at all and was adjusted properly.
3. Riving knife - No adjustment needed.
4. I don't see how the anti-kickback pawls could come loose unless you did not have them installed properly. There is a spring loaded pin on the pawls that goes through a hole in the riving knife and then through another hole on the pawls. I can see how the plastic guard might come loose, although I have not had that happen.
5. Have not had mine trigger the Reaxx mechanism and hope I never do.
6. The Saw cuts as good or better than you should expect from a jobsite saw. (I used to have a 3hp Jet cabinet saw.)
7. The blade angle mechanism can be difficult to use because once you release the lock, the weight of the motor causes the assembly to swing down until the motor is at the lowest point in its arch. Keeping one hand on the height adjustment wheel will prevent this from happening.
8. The fence is much better than the one on the SawStop jobsite saw. The fence locks front and back and is self-aligning. There is extruded aluminum under the removable plastic top and sides and has t-track down the middle of the top and sides. I have Jessem Clear Cut guides on the way and will see how they work on this fence.

Overall, so far, I am very happy with the saw and find it is the ideal complement to a track saw for the small, space challenged shop.

[Patrick Testerman]

I had a Bosch 4100 saw and the deal-killer for me was the riving knife. Using a thin-kerf blade means it has to be exactly adjusted. Unfortunately, no matter how well I adjusted it and how much I tightened the adjusting screws it would come out of adjustment, either causing wood to bind between the knife and the fence or to be pulled away from the fence toward the blade.

I'm curious as to whether they have improved the design of the blade and it's adjustment mechanism

I also have some concern about the mis-fires. With Bosch's mechanism they dont' wreck the blade, but if they happen with any regularity they would still get expensive.

[Rich Riddle]

Patrick,

In regards to the riving knife, anti-kickback devise (paws) and the plastic guard, it is exactly the same design as the 4100; no improvements were made I can see between the two saws. The saw blade adjustment is very similar if not exact to the 4100. You loosen the large plastic lock and the motor swings free. Raising and lowering the blade proves very easy. The indicator on the blade angle on mine was 1.2 degrees off according to the Wixey but that was easy to loosen and tighten. Blade alignment (front to back) to left slot was off .127" according to the dial gauge. That one was a lot. Again, it easily aligned. The fence alignment was decent and only off about .011 and adjusted. The blade alignment and fence alignment are the two that would cause binding.

[Ben Rivel]

Interesting. Youll have to let us know how well it holds all the adjustment settings you had to make over time and use. That Id be curious about.

[Patrick Testerman]

Patrick,

In regards to the riving knife, anti-kickback devise (paws) and the plastic guard, it is exactly the same design as the 4100; no improvements were made I can see between the two saws. The saw blade adjustment is very similar if not exact to the 4100. You loosen the large plastic lock and the motor swings free. Raising and lowering the blade proves very easy. The indicator on the blade angle on mine was 1.2 degrees off according to the Wixey but that was easy to loosen and tighten. Blade alignment (front to back) to left slot was off .127" according to the dial gauge. That one was a lot. Again, it easily aligned. The fence alignment was decent and only off about .011 and adjusted. The blade alignment and fence alignment are the two that would cause binding.

Somewhat disappointing but not surprising. Perhaps my experiences are an anomaly, but I've heard of others simply removing the riving knife to avoid problems. Removing a major safety mechanism on a potentially dangerous tool like a table saw is never a good idea IMO. I think part of the problem was that the locking mechanism for the knife required a fair amount of downward force on the lever, which tended to pull it out of alignment. When the knife thickness is 0.090" and most thin kerf blades have a thickness of 0.09375 (3/32") it doesn't take much knock the knife out of alignment.

I had some problems keeping the fence aligned well on my saw. It came slightly out of alignment like yours and when I tried to align it it tended to slip back into the position it was shipped in.

The major source of binding was the riving knife - it would move slightly to the right (towards the fence) so that the right edge was to the right of the saw kerf. This ment the width between the kerf and the fence was greater than that between the knife and the fence, hence the binding. Other times I had it move the other direction with would pull the wood towards the blade on the trailing edge of the cut. No binding, but it would at best cause a poor cut and potentially increases the risk for kickback.

I agree - post back and let us know your long term experiences. Perhaps I was just a putz and did the adjustment wrong so a less dimwitted user will have better luck!

[Warren Wilson]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your reviews.

[David Kumm]

Why not make a new riving knife to fit your blade and use a shim to align it? Stock riving knives are seldom the correct thickness as they should be between the plate and tooth measurements. Dave