Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Router in Sawstop wing?

  1. #1

    Router in Sawstop wing?

    How many people here have put a router lift in the Sawstop plastic/MDF extension wing? I've ran across a couple posts about it, but feedback is mixed. One guy loves his, another had sagging issues. I am on the fence about it. Mine seems to dip a little bit in the middle of the table already.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    1,408
    It all depends on the heft of the router/plate you're going to use. I had one for a while, with a fairly light router and plate (Hitachi 2hp router with a phenolic plate). I didn't have any noticeable sagging with that setup.

    I ultimately wanted to replace that router with a lift and heavier motor, so I rebuilt the table using a 3/4" MDF top, poplar edges/ribs (similar to how the Sawstop table is constructed except with cross ribs as well) skinned with plastic laminate. You could probably just reinforce the Sawstop tabletop by adding more ribs underneath near your router plate. I also wanted to shift the location of the router so it made sense to scrap the original table and build my own.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    22,514
    Blog Entries
    1
    IMHO the right side table on my 3HP PCS is a low point for the saw if that is the "wing" you speak of. The soft frame material allows alignment of the table so shift even though I never move my saw. Regardless of the "wing" in question, if it is sub-optimal I would take advantage of the desire for a router add-on to replace it.

    MDF is fine for a router table top if properly supported from below to avoid sag. Frame it with a good hardwood that will survive the pressure of the connection points and all should be well. That being said I always favored my router table on the left as this presents a consistent feed direction and uses the open area as the saw for the feed path.

    I put my miter slot the same distance from the bit as my table saw's miter slot is from the blade. This allows easy dual use of jigs and fixtures.

    Kit-Hut-(94).jpg . GnG Wall Cab (23).jpg

    Make it your own and enjoy!
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 07-04-2016 at 9:59 AM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    Josh,
    This is what I did, I started a thread about it a few years ago and am really happy with it.
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...max&highlight=

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Columbus, Ohio, USA
    Posts
    3,441
    I love mine, I did it some years back, and there is no sagging. On the other hand, I built a framework out of oak under the table. I figured that this would prevent sagging, and it has.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Sacramento, CA
    Posts
    2,005
    If I had to do it the only way Id consider is how Steve Wilde did it (see post #4 above). IMO thats the best setup I have ever seen for a router table/table saw combo.
    If at first you don't succeed, redefine success!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    421
    20160514_132651.jpgI didn't use the existing MDF table on my SS but instead replaced it with an Incra router table. I also have the Incra router lift with a PC 3.5HP router mounted on it. I had to buy the Incra legs to support it, otherwise the whole wing will sag. Here's the only picture of it I have, I'll try for a better picture tonight with the table cleaned off.
    Last edited by Hoang N Nguyen; 07-06-2016 at 8:47 AM.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,918
    Many of the "out of the box" right side tables on cabinet saws are not what I'd term "heavy duty" when it comes to being able to support weight. They are there supposedly to support material while your cutting. Of course, "in the real world", that side of the saw gets a lot of, um...alternative use.

    I see no issue with installing a router station in that position but would always recommend beefing up any support structures to handle the constant weight that a quality router setup is going to bring to bear...that's the table surface, the fence, the plate or lift, the router and the cabinet surrounding things under for dust control, etc. (And you leaning on it while working... ) I'm a fan of the cast iron router setups for this kind of thing, but I have no idea if they fit SS dimensions...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •