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Thread: My 15th machine came today!

  1. #31
    Originally Posted by Kev Williams
    (and then Rodne)....

    I do have "wobble", which I don't believe is in the instruction manual-- been wondering what it's for? Any idea what it actually does? I've been able to get a decently dark gray in aluminum so I'll have to try it

    Wobble is to give lines thickness.. say you have a hairline you want to engrave but make it 0.5mm wide , you enter the width in the wobble dialog and about 1/5th the wobble width,,
    Nice to know, can't wait to try it out-- tomorrow...


    I've also figured out most of the offset settings. Yet the one I can't find is the one I really need, how to offset the outlines OUTWARD. Using negative numbers doesn't work. However, negative numbers in the "Line Reduction" setting DOES expand the hatch beyond the outline boundaries- but no way to expand the actual outline? And, I was getting weird results with the hatch, some of the fill would connect between 2 different letters (testing the word TEXT). The reason I'd like to expand the outlines? So I can match engraving done with the other lasers! Need to compensate for the extremely narrow beam...

    Offset .. if you click inside the item you want offset , it offsets inside , if you click outside it , it offsets outside
    I assume this is with the wobble? The other settings seem to affect only the hatch, not the outline...


    I did figure out a near-perfect Cermark replica setting-- was having trouble with burning and it being too brown, and sometimes severely warping the metal.

    Wash the brown off with a mild abraisive household cream and toothbrush .. it becomes black and the mark crisps up

    What I did that worked great: 500 speed, 100 power, 200 freq, .01 hatch, and defocused the lens about .080 (2mm). Worked fantastic on satin stainless. However, not quite as well on a piece of polished SS. Not sure if it's focus or the material itself but some tweaking should help.

    Those settings arent right.. the freq of 200 is putting in huge heat compared to 20, 500 is too fast
    high freqs work less aggressively than low .... try 100-200 / 100 / 20.. you should see a bright light and sparks when doing black SS
    They may not be 'your' right, but I did 8 of these as groomsman gifts, they all look just like this one (with a common name thankfully, lol)
    -they look just as good as the results I get from the "new" Cermark, as far as "black" goes...

    black1.jpgblack2.jpg
    I DO need to experiment more with some other settings. I think part of the reason I pulled it off at these settings was being out of focus, I was hoping to reduce the cut and heat a bit.


    I've also got the rotary *somewhat* figured out, had 2 hours of typing about that disappear on me the other night --

    The one thing that's escaping me is getting steel and stainless to deep engrave. I've done okay with aluminum, but still need to figure out the cleanup procedure. But steel, I can 'etch' it great- I can bright polish, get nice shades of gray, gold and brown coloring in varying surface textures and a close match to Cermark, but haven't figured out the magical "engraving" settings. I've run 60-pass test runs in several settings configurations. I either get a bright gnarly etch, or a black slaggy gnarly etch, but nothing that resembles "engraving"....

    You dont have enough power for deep engraving with your lens set .. if you had to say reduce the marking field to 50mm , you would get a smaller spot size and maybe have the energy density to remove material

    Will this thing replace several machines? Hardly! While it can do some things my other machines do, It actually won't be able to replace any of them. However, it WILL do things none of my other machines can do. So it's simply a needed addition! --another step forward in my technology cycle... (just had to get that in there)
    Its a fascinating toy to play with
    Oh, yes it is! And with Gary's help, I was able to get a solid .003" deep in some steel bar stock tonight in 12 passes...
    metal1.jpgmetal2.jpg --good ol' silly putty
    I'm having ruffled edge issues, hoping to work those out with some practice. I'm sure part of the problem is the long lens. I'm sure some of those hatch offsets will help. Just wish I had more TIME to practice, my work load lately has kept me working 17/7 for a solid month now, looking for a break in the action.... could have worse problems.


    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Liaocheng, Shandong, China
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodne Gold View Post

    Mine works real well on laser engraving plastics.. and all metals and some platics that the co2's wont touch
    Yes, it marks plastic perfectly, super fast speed, high precision and good result. I tried many cellphone shell, very good job. But for the shell from both plastic and rubber, the engraving result is not good.1.jpg. See the image.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Liaocheng, Shandong, China
    Posts
    19
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodne Gold View Post



    --What's the foot pedal for? Not sure I'll find info about it in the instructions.
    Foot pedal is used to repeat the job the machine just finished. If you want to mark much same products, you just step the foot pedal to repeat.

  4. #34
    Do you wear eye protection when operating this type of laser as it's not in an enclosure?
    Shenhui SG350 fitted with a 60w tube.
    Aeon Nova 10 100w tube.
    Aeon Mira 5030 30w RF tube.
    20w Fiber Laser.
    50w Fiber Laser.
    Located in the Isle of Man, which isn't in the UK but almost surrounded by it.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Cape Town, South Africa
    Posts
    3,922
    I use laser glkasses, albeit mine are for up to 380 odd and also 10960 (or whatever the numbers are) .. i put them in the beam path when engraving and they definitely attenuate power.. but still transmit the beam
    these are the glasses I got with my Co2's and I know they not correctly tuned for wavelength

    I think a polycarbonate shield could be effective?
    Im also worried at the effects of staring at that bright light...Arc eyes?
    Rodney Gold, Toker Bros trophies, Cape Town , South Africa :
    Roland 2300 rotary . 3 x ISEL's ..1m x 500mm CnC .
    Tekcel 1200x2400 router , 900 x 600 60w Shenui laser , 1200 x 800 80w Reci tube Shenhui Laser
    6 x longtai lasers 400x600 60w , 1 x longtai 20w fiber
    2x Gravo manual engravers , Roland 540 large format printer/cutter. CLTT setup
    1600mm hot and cold laminator , 3x Dopag resin dispensers , sandblasting setup, acid etcher

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Shefford, United Kingdom
    Posts
    685
    you need glasses rated at 1060nm (ish) with an OD of 8, polycarb is not useless but it would be like advising someone to wear a leather jacket as bullet proof vests had all gone, not good. Unless you have and IPG or SPI laser setting the frequency above 80khz will have no effect, much the same as going below 20khz, it just limits its self. Sounds like everyone is having fun with their fibers
    L Squared Lasers UK
    2 x Halo Lasers 20 watt fiber
    1 x Halo CO2 Galvo System
    1 x Shenhui 1512 80 watt
    3 x Electrox D40
    3 x electrox Scriba 2
    1 x Electrox Scorpion 40 watt Fibre
    1 x Epilog EXT36 75 watt.

  7. #37
    Someone recommended NOIR for laser glasses. They have many lenses and frame styles. I got a pair that fit over my glasses. You get a 20% discount if you order over the phone rather than the web so find what you need and give them a call. I found it handy to have their website up while I was on the phone with them. You can also get darker lenses to help reduce the laser flash.
    Scott Challoner
    30W LaserPro Spirit (Need more power)
    30W Wisely Fiber Galvo

  8. #38
    What little research I've done on glasses tells me there's 2 basic types of protection; reflection (beam bounces off the lens) and absorption (beam is absorbed by the lens). The selling point used for the absorption type, is that if they get scratched they'll still work. Scratch a reflection type lens and you create a space for the beam to pass thru. Also, the reflection type are all over the internet dirt cheap, and you have to look around for the absorption style, and they're more money.

    I paid $68 on ebay for a pair of absorption glasses from a California seller, mostly so I'd get them faster. I believe they're from China anyway. So how to know if they work other than hit them with the beam? SO, I just did a thru-the-lens test at 30% power and it melted the lens- oops - but more important, nothing engraved whatsoever, so I'll assume they work! Just a small spot melted so they're still plenty useable if I have to watch, plus I have 2 more pair coming from a China place any day now. These can be 'guest' glasses.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  9. #39
    Two years ago (before I had my fiber) I managed to develop a macular hole. I think I was 47 at the time, so relatively young for such an anomaly. Even after surgery, I have a little scar tissue right in the center of my vision in my left eye which is a real pain. Was it careless use of my CO2 laser or my green laser pointer or just a coincidence? Who knows, but I'm a little more cautious these days. The NOIR lenses have a CE stamp and other official looking markings. The pair that came with my laser have no markings of any kind. I'm not affiliated with NOIR but $150 for US made glasses with proper certifications is worth the peace of mind to me. Now I have to go make one of those "Do Not Look into Laser With Good Eye," signs.
    Scott Challoner
    30W LaserPro Spirit (Need more power)
    30W Wisely Fiber Galvo

  10. #40
    I didn't get glasses with mine... unless they're hiding in the crate someplace, lol.. these glasses have stamped on each lens: 800-1100nm 0.D5+ 1060-1070nm 0.D7+ CE ...

    I've been wearing polycarb eyeglasses for years, probably saving my eyes from the C02. Especially the day I was engraving down the side of piece of SS pipe and nearly caught my mustache on fire from the reflection. The blast of heat that hit my face was amazing... that was a lesson learned the stupid way.
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  11. #41
    Great stuff guys, learn something every time with this thread. Regarding wobble, I was cutting some .005 stainless and it took probably 15-20 passes to release. I was advised to add wobble and it cut through in 3. Can't even remember my speed settings but probably 200 ips, only difference was wobble was toggled on. Couldn't detect a size difference due to flexibility of material.
    355 - 10400 : )

  12. #42
    I can't find wobble in EZCad. I wonder if there is an equivalent with a different term.
    Scott Challoner
    30W LaserPro Spirit (Need more power)
    30W Wisely Fiber Galvo

  13. #43
    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Challoner View Post
    I can't find wobble in EZCad. I wonder if there is an equivalent with a different term.
    It doesn't come on all versions of the cards. It's under advance settings, and if you don't see the check box I'm afraid you don't have that feature.
    355 - 10400 : )

  14. #44
    Does any one know what "Q Pulse Width" does? I noticed most screenshots of EZCad on youtube don't include this setting. The seller told me to keep it at 100.
    Q Pulse Width.jpg
    I don't know what kind of fiber laser generator is installed in this unit. It was sold to me as a color laser and is supposed to color on steel. I've actually found it very difficult to do anything that isn't color(ie black) on steel.
    FIber Parameters.jpg

    Kenny

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Suwanee, GA
    Posts
    3,686
    I would suggest starting a new thread with your questions, it will get more attention and answers specific to your question.

    "Q Pulse Width" I don't have that setting on my machines and don't have any idea how it might affect anything.

    What source was selected when you got it? Why would you want to change it?

    Not sure about your statement regarding color - do you want to deep engrave and can't?

    Quote Originally Posted by Kenny Davis72 View Post
    Does any one know what "Q Pulse Width" does? I noticed most screenshots of EZCad on youtube don't include this setting. The seller told me to keep it at 100.
    Q Pulse Width.jpg
    I don't know what kind of fiber laser generator is installed in this unit. It was sold to me as a color laser and is supposed to color on steel. I've actually found it very difficult to do anything that isn't color(ie black) on steel.
    FIber Parameters.jpg

    Kenny

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