Which side of the table saw should an extension table be?

[Minh Tran]

I want to build an extension table (which will have drawers & mounts and supports for a router table) for my contractor saw. It is likely that I will need to put the extension table, saw, and outfeed table against the wall.

The extension table, with the saw base and outfeed table will resemble an 'L' or a mirrored 'L' shape once connected, depending on which side the extension table will connect. If the former setup is chosen, then I could use the table saw fence as a router table fence. If the latter, then I'd have to forgo the router table & router table fence feature since it'd be too awkward and potentially too dangerous to use.

I'm not sure how the placement of the extension table will affect my ability to cut sheet-goods or very wide stock. The table saw blade tilts to the left (I don't think the choice of side will limit my miter cuts since stock can be flipped before cutting).

Is there a side the extension table should be on so that I can still cut sheet goods, wide stock, and have that router table? What compromises (if any) will I have to make?

[glenn bradley]

The right side of my table saw is no man's land. Ducting and over arm are just past the maximum fence position. My router table is on the left for consistent feed direction and clearance.

[Troy Turner]

I have mine on the right (if you're facing the saw like you are fixing to cut something). This is because the fence rails extend that way and I have something to bolt it to. I also have a 3 foot piece to the left. They're only the depth of the table saw itself, but provide a lot of support when I'm running wide boards across it. My fence will go out 48" from the blade to the right.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a little one on the right and it has a router table setup. I rarely use it now that I built a dedicated table but I did at one time. I stand at the end of the extension table when using it so direction of feed is not an issue. I wouldn't try to use the table saw rip fence, however. You can't without adding something to the fence. I tried it for awhile but invariably I wanted to rip something without changing the router fence setup. I just added a t-nut under the extension fence for a knob with a stud and put a slotted hole on the router fence on each end for adjustment. My preferred material is melamine particle board - because is cheap and slick (especially with a coat of wax) and stable. If you only need a little, you can buy a shelf.

[Charles Lent]

Which side of the blade do you like your fence? Put it on that side. Actually, having a table on both sides is best, but few have room for both. The one on the opposite of the blade from the fence can be shorter, like a router table, which you are already planning for.

Charley

[George Bokros]

I have extensions on both sides of the blade. 24" to the right and 18" to the left. I really don't have the room I need for this but I get by. Nice for supporting long cross cuts.

[Robert Engel]

The extension table is always on the right, usually as wide as the fence goes, which is usually 30-50" depending on the model of saw.
An extension on the left is handy for supporting plywood, but this is better achieved by using a mobile cart, saw horses or a collapsible wing if you do alot of plywood work.

Having to place it against the wall, in your scenario, the right side of the extension table would go against the wall. The router will have to be on the left, which will only work if your fence goes far enough to the left to work as a router fence, which depends on the model of saw you have. If it doesn't, then you would need to build a stand alone router table (IMO a better option than using the ts fence).

A TS can take up a huge amount of acreage in the shop considering outfeed and extension tables, so much depends on shop area.

[Charles Wiggins]

My saw is a right tilt and what little extension I have is to the right, and right side of my saw is next to the wall. I have enough table to the right of the blade to rip a piece of plywood in half (actually a little more than half). If I need to cut off one edge or the other I can bias to the left of the blade and I have support stands.

I don't really see any purpose to an outfeed extension unless it is behind the blade, so I assume that regardless of which side you place it that it will extend far enough across to catch material coming off both sides of the blade.

I understand why some folks put their router table in the table extension but for me that would not work for several reasons, first of all I cannot get to it because it's on the wall, but secondly, I work a little too hap-hazardly to make that efficient for me. I can see me in the middle of milling with the router the figuring out that I need to cut something on the saw that requires the fence, but not wanting to mess with my router setup.

I have a small table-top router table that I got from Rockler years ago. They discontinued them shortly afterward, but it would be easy enough to make one. There's about a billion designs out there. I store it in my tool cabinet and pull it out and clamp to any flat surface to use it.

I'm not sure if there's an answer anywhere in my ramblings, but I hope this helps.

Charles

[Minh Tran]

You folks bring up a good point. I was on my way with a design featuring a 36" right-side table extension and I only had 42" to work with. It makes more sense to have at least 2 feet clearance on both sides of the TS:

1. 24" + 20" + 24" Allows me to do a crosscut on an 8' long ply. Outfeed table will be 4' as well so the setup will also allow for an 8'-long rip
2. 24" Sounds like enough space to set up a router table.
3. The contractor saw is already symmetric. A symmetric set of cabinets simplifies design & stock prep.