Hi Mike, Sorry, I don't have any pictures of the inside of the cabinet. But it's very simple. All I did was measure from the inside wall of the cabinet to the end of the hinge where it projects into the cabinet when the doors are open. I think it might have been around 1-1/4". I filled that space by first screwing two 3/4" pieces of plywood vertically inside the cabinet, floor to top, near the front and back. Then I screwed two pieces of 1/2" plywood, about 2-1/2" wide, to those spacers, front to back where the shelf slides needed to be mounted. I used side mounted slides and screwed them to those cross pieces. I measured the distance between the spacers and built the drawer to fit that dimension, following the guidelines for the drawer slides I used (1" less).
You could use the same concept with rear mounting brackets.
I love finger joints with Baltic birch plywood. I think they look good, they are incredibly strong, and they are very easy to do with either a home built jig and dado blade on the tablesaw, or with my original Incra jig on my router table. I built these with the Incra jig. One big advantage of the Incra jig is that you can gang like parts together and cut them all at once. When you need to make a lot of drawers this is a huge advantage. Of course, if you goof, all your parts will be bad.
What I like best about finger joints is that you don't have to calculate what the length of the parts should be, as you do with the sides of dovetailed drawers, or the front and back of rabbeted drawers. You cut the parts to whatever length the outside dimensions of the drawer needs to be, add maybe 1/32" to 1/16" for trim after assembly, and cut them to those dimensions.
John