Router table top - melamine?

[Aaron Conway]

I'm building a router table and in doing research I've seen some people use MDF and other laminate melamine/formica onto the MDF for the top. Anybody have experience with either and what's your preference?

Thanks.

[Doug Hepler]

Aaron,

I used 3/4" melamine coated MDF from HD and it worked well. The disadvantage of using MDF or ply is that it is not hard enough to make a durable "miter" slot. You can insert a strip of oak or other hard wood in the MDF and then rout out the miter slot in that, or buy an aluminum miter slot (I chose the latter). Also, although MDF is flat you should do something to reinforce it so that it stays flat in use, humidity changes, etc.

Doug

[Robert Engel]

You can use it. Melamine is not a wearable surface but I think it would still work.
Double it up for added thickness.

I prefer laminate. I made mine of 2 layers of 3/4 baltic birch w/ laminate on both sides w/ edges trimmed with hardwood.

I use an aluminum miter/ t track.

[glenn bradley]

1-1/8" well supported MDF/melamine going on 9 years, no issues.

[Aaron Conway]

I should have said this in my original post...I'm planning on using a double layer of 3/4" MDF edged in solid wood with an aluminum miter track. The top will be about 2'x4' so I'll be putting support below...even thinking of adding 2-3 steel L supports.

Thanks.

[Greg Hines, MD]

My router table top is 3/4" melamine, with strips of 1/2" plywood laminated/screwed to the underside where my miter slot and t-tracks run, and I have not had any problems with it.

Doc

[Wayne Jolly]

That is about the size of the table I built. I used two layers of 3/4" MDF, some laminate for the top, with maple edging and it has been working just fine. The MDF is supported at four points with 3/4" plywood used for the cabinet. Since the cabinet also has a 3/4" plywood top on it, that makes the total thickness of the router table top 2 1/4". Personally, depending on the design, I don't think the steel angle iron would add much additional support. It's about 2 years old and I have used it for all sorts of things besides routing. I have not found it necessary to add any kind of t-track or miter track. The fence extends beyond the sides a little and then clamps down to the outside edge of the table. I can remove the fence and have a flat surface, except for the router plate, to use as a secondary assembly table, or whatever. Mostly, it gets used as a flat surface to lose tools, parts, and whatever else on.

From my experience, laminate is thicker and tougher than melamine, but it is also dependent upon the melamine. I've come across two basic types. One is a little softer and has a slight texture to the surface. It's more like a layer of vinyl glued onto the surface. I wouldn't think this type of melamine would be very durable. Then there is the type that is smooth and hard more like you see in dry erase boards. This might perform well.

Wayne

[David Pascoe]

I made my router table of melamine 7 years ago, double thickness w/3/4 MDF supported by plywood cabinet. Still perfectly flat. I used aluminum channel designed to fit the 3/4" bar stock of miter gauges. Route the groove, then epoxy the channel in place. It is too thin for screws. Must have the double thickness to do this, otherwise your top is gonna break in half.

[Patrick Harper]

I used two layers of mdf and then applied white laminate with contact cement. It's been working very well for me so far. There's some good videos on how to roll out the laminate on youtube.

I wrote a blog post about the build: the perfect router table.

[David L Morse]

I made my router table of melamine 7 years ago, double thickness w/3/4 MDF supported by plywood cabinet. Still perfectly flat. I used aluminum channel designed to fit the 3/4" bar stock of miter gauges. Route the groove, then epoxy the channel in place. It is too thin for screws. Must have the double thickness to do this, otherwise your top is gonna break in half.

Do you mean 3/4" Melamine on top of 3/4" MDF? If so, what kind of adhesive did you use?

[Robin Frierson]

I've had problems with Router tables sagging overtime with a heavy PC router in it. My first one was double MDF. I ended up having to support it with angle iron. I was later talked into ordering a phenolic top which also sagged. The salesman told me that I wasn't supposed to keep the router in it. Take it out every time I was done using it. That's crazy. I now have a cast-iron router table and so far it's stayed flat.

[John Lankers]

2 layers of 3/4" MDF glued together, covered with Formica as wear surface and exposed edges and bottom sealed (almost soaked) with Polyurethane to prevent warping. The top is 7 or 8 years old and still dead flat (it is mounted on top of a router cabinet). T track makes mounting featherboards and the like easier than a miter slot does. You may want to consider under table dust extraction as well.

[John Lankers]

I've had problems with Router tables sagging overtime with a heavy PC router in it. My first one was double MDF. I ended up having to support it with angle iron. I was later talked into ordering a phenolic top which also sagged. The salesman told me that I wasn't supposed to keep the router in it. Take it out every time I was done using it. That's crazy. I now have a cast-iron router table and so far it's stayed flat.

I had the same experience with Phenolic and eventually upgraded to Aluminum, problem solved.

[Robert Engel]

I should have said this in my original post...I'm planning on using a double layer of 3/4" MDF edged in solid wood with an aluminum miter track. The top will be about 2'x4' so I'll be putting support below...even thinking of adding 2-3 steel L supports.

Thanks.

It will work find. I would laminate both sides using the thicker horizontal laminate. It will be rock solid and eliminate the need for additional supports.

I think 2x4 is a rather large table for a router.

I have an assembly table of MDF. If coated well with BLO its ok and would probably work, but I would use laminate anyway.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a router table capability in my table saw's extension table which is melamine particle board. It has some vertical ribs to help it stay flat. I don't use it a lot since building my dedicated table.

My dedicated router table has a top of a sink cutout backed by a piece of 3/4 plywood and edged with maple. The router motor is supported by the back of the router table - it is on a homemade lift that slides on 2, 1 inch machined steel bars. The top has stayed flat, it should with no stress.

If you can find somebody installing formica counter tops the sink cutouts are great if you consider them big enough. It would be a little under 3 feet by a little under 2 feet. The laminate is very securely glued to the particle board and it is high density particle board - better than what's under the melamine I have used.