Lets start a "Tip of the Day" thread...

[AL Ursich]

Time for a "Tip of the Day" thread.... We all do things that make tasks we do easier or less complicated as a second nature. This is not a Engraving tip but a Corel tip that Engravers might find handy. I use this tip often as I make Sublimated clip boards for Firemen called Accountability Boards. I often need to space blocks or lines within a given area. Tried the math method and it works but I have been using this easier way for a long time and wanted to share it. So the task is to divide a space in Corel into 4 equal areas. I draw a rectangle about 1/4 the size of the space. I copy and paste the first making 3 more copies. I stack them on top of each other slightly offset. (yellow) I select all and move the group over to the space placing the bottom of the group on a grid line. I grab the top of the group and stretch or shrink the group to match the top grid line. (green) I now have the spacing and add grid lines to each junction. Done... Delete the boxes... If you were doing a 40 plate of 40 names on a plaque this could be used to get your spacing quick. Could have put this in the Sign thread but I thought it applies to both and some read both threads. Lets hear alternates to this method as more than one way to easily skin a "task"... Please feel free to add your tips... Lets have some fun... AL

[John Blazy]

Cool. I like these threads - Learn a lot and save time. One of my favorite all time shop tips is making tons of clamps from PVC pipe. 3", 4" and 6" pipe, solid core, make the most useful. First, cut a length based on how many clamps you need, say 36". Raise your T-saw blade about 1" high, and rip one kerf the full length (this is the mouth opening of the clamp). Then chopsaw the pipe like a carrot into 1-1/2" to 2" lengths and you're done. Use where you would use spring clamps. I melt nails into the ends, and use them as miter clamps sometimes to hold miter shut til glue dries.

But here is a laser oriented tip: If you need to mark metal for cutting or aligning for welding like I needed last week, and you dont have Cermark but access to powdercoat powder (a handfull will go a long way - ask a powdercoat shop), you can mark any metal easily - the laser melts the powder coat nicely:

Powdercoat-laser.jpgPowdercoat-lines.jpg

[Bert Kemp]

can we see a picture of the clamp to give us a better Idea Oh and when using powered coat don't forget to turn the air off

Cool. I like these threads - Learn a lot and save time. One of my favorite all time shop tips is making tons of clamps from PVC pipe. 3", 4" and 6" pipe, solid core, make the most useful. First, cut a length based on how many clamps you need, say 36". Raise your T-saw blade about 1" high, and rip one kerf the full length (this is the mouth opening of the clamp). Then chopsaw the pipe like a carrot into 1-1/2" to 2" lengths and you're done. Use where you would use spring clamps. I melt nails into the ends, and use them as miter clamps sometimes to hold miter shut til glue dries.

But here is a laser oriented tip: If you need to mark metal for cutting or aligning for welding like I needed last week, and you dont have Cermark but access to powdercoat powder (a handfull will go a long way - ask a powdercoat shop), you can mark any metal easily - the laser melts the powder coat nicely:

Powdercoat-laser.jpgPowdercoat-lines.jpg

[Kev Williams]

For marking metal, I use something everyone has readily available... paper! I keep a couple of drawers full of old print and dupe PO's just for this!

I use paper to mark where to put Cermark. I engrave large SS panels with diagonal logos and words over holes and around holes and outlines etc etc...
I draw outlines around everything that needs engraved, cover the plate with paper and vector the outlines.
Burn thru the paper good... It actually makes a bit of a sooty mess, however- the cut lines are distinct,
the mess has never affected the Cermark burn, and it just wipes off afterward. This way I use ONLY as much Cermark as needed instead
of covering half the plate to make sure I got enough on!

[Chris DeGerolamo]

I've done similar by printing the logo and "punching through" the paper with a dry erase to temporarily mark the extents of the engraved area thereby reducing wastage. Good tip with the vector/paper trick Kev!

[Evan Requardt]

Here is a good Cermark trick for anyone who doesn't already know. I use it at least once a week!

If you are unsure about where your laser will hit you can just engrave on top of the Cermark by turning your speed all the way up and using about 5-7% power. It won't go through the Cermark and onto your material. That way you can make adjustments before engraving onto your material. I hope this helps someone!

[Kev Williams]

Good tip Evan, I use that trick almost daily--- I put a guy's name on the $6000 knives he brings me, and it's nice to know exactly what you'll get before going OH $#**!!
--to expound a bit, I also turn the res WAY down to 100, makes the test pass go really fast...
Yes, blue tape would work but these knives (and guns and other goofy shaped objects) I just set on a towel, and I have a small round level I use to make sure the engraving area will all be in focus. If I use blue tape, I move the knife getting it off. So lightly grazing the Cermark is great! And it'll work on anything you put it on -although probably not wood, the new formula Simply Will Not Just Rinse Off like the old stuff did. I use a magic eraser and lots water to get the residue off. (not conducive to wood!)

[John Blazy]

That is pretty cool Evan. I use blue masking tape for that same purpose.

Here's my latest tip: Easily do polished bevels in acrylic with a simple angle jig on the bed. The bottom edge of the jig has a lip to hold the material. I just rotate all the pcs of this Candylam four times and all edges are beveled. Any size can be done based on how large you make the angle block.

IMG_20160728_141100 (1).jpgIMG_20160728_141247.jpg

[Gene Uselman]

That is pretty cool Evan. I use blue masking tape for that same purpose.

Here's my latest tip: Easily do polished bevels in acrylic with a simple angle jig on the bed. The bottom edge of the jig has a lip to hold the material. I just rotate all the pcs of this Candylam four times and all edges are beveled. Any size can be done based on how large you make the angle block.

IMG_20160728_141100 (1).jpgIMG_20160728_141247.jpg

Hi John- what is candy lam, please? Thanks Gene

[John Blazy]

Candylam is a newly developed acrylic that I had to make to compliment my other dichroic laserable acrylic products that are under development (cant give any more info due to forum rules, but if you become a contributor for as little as six bucks a year, you can access the Lumberyard forum and read ALL about it under the "machineable Opal - need feedback" thread).

Anyway, I started a thread a couple months ago asking for a purple laserable acrylic cuz I couldnt find any out there (since found Acrilex, but still not close enough), then I remembered buying some metallic fabric, planning to contact cement it to plywood, then lasering it, and wondered if I could actually laminate it to the back side of acrylic. So I did a small test pc, and it bonds great to acrylic. Then I ordered about 3 yds of each color and figured out a way to laminate in a continuous 48" wide process on 4 x 8 sheets of clear. Then I discovered that it burns from any underside flashback heat, so now I have to fill the back with a special polymer, and now it cuts great.

I do Cobalt, Lime, Fuscia, Purple, silver and gold. Pretty neat stuff. Look for a banner ad on SMC when these products are ready.

[Makrel Johnson]

Evan, do you re-laser the Cermark you just blackened or do you wash and re-coat?

I found this out the grazing by accident once, getting my speed and power inverted. About had a heart attack when it all washed off!

[Rodne Gold]

My tip of the day is that you need to get a 10x jewelers or printers loupe .. inspecting the engraving with this gives you a lot of info as to what the laser is doing .. and is a great aid to optimise settings for the best result

[Evan Requardt]

Markel,

I re-laser over the same spot I just blackened and it burns into the material as it normally would.

[Brian Leavitt]

My tip would mainly pertain to people who do awards, which is mostly what I do. I cover the table with a large sheet of paper masking and laser an accurate rule for lining up plates, acrylics, glass plaques, etc. at the proper position. Helps to perfectly align multiple plaque plates, and especially when doing running several jobs at once. It also acts as scratch prevention for acrylics. Also for acrylics, I use the paper masking for positioning by lasering the outline of the acrylic onto the masking. I change it out every couple of months on the machine I use for acrylics. On the ULS lasers I cover the entire table. On the Fusion, I just use an 8-inch wide piece and to the top and left sides because the table is so large.

[Klaus Madsen]

My tip would mainly pertain to people who do awards, which is mostly what I do. I cover the table with a large sheet of paper masking and laser an accurate rule for lining up plates, acrylics, glass plaques, etc. at the proper position. Helps to perfectly align multiple plaque plates, and especially when doing running several jobs at once. It also acts as scratch prevention for acrylics. Also for acrylics, I use the paper masking for positioning by lasering the outline of the acrylic onto the masking. I change it out every couple of months on the machine I use for acrylics. On the ULS lasers I cover the entire table. On the Fusion, I just use an 8-inch wide piece and to the top and left sides because the table is so large.

Why haven't I come up with that idea myself In other words, that is a great idea, thanks.
Have you made the white rulers yourself or did the come with the machine ?