Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 16

Thread: Which primer for BM Advance (HVLP application)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    261

    Which primer for BM Advance (HVLP application)

    I recently sprayed BM Advance using my Earlex 5500 HVLP, thinned 10% with distill water. It was for a small bookcase and the first time I tried this alkyd paint. The result is very good. The paint dried rock hard, although I had a bit of a difficult time sanding it between coats.

    I am building a large built-in for the family room now and want to use BM Advance again with the Earlex 5500. Construction materials are birch plywood with poplar for trim and face frame. I have half of the boxes constructed without backs attached. This weekend I will try to construct the upper boxes. Which is a good waterborne primer to use with the BM Advance, sprayed using the Earlex 5500? How many coats of primer (1 vs 2)?

    I have read Zinsser BIN, but this is DNA clean-up. I prefer water and soap clean up and a primer that can sand to a powder between coats. Too much to ask?

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Wakahisa Shinta View Post
    I prefer water and soap clean up and a primer that can sand to a powder between coats. Too much to ask?
    Holy Grail.

  3. #3
    i have wet sanded BM Advance. Worked well. Don't have to use much water.

    As far as primers go, I have used the stuff at the link. It sands well. I have not sprayed it, so I can't help there.
    Be careful to get the right stuff, ppg makes many primers called Seal Grip and they are vastly different.


    http://www.ppgpaints.com/products/seal-grip-primeline-fast-dry-latex-wood-undercoat

    Also, I think BM makes a primer for Advance, but I haven't used it yet.
    Last edited by Sean Tracey; 07-28-2016 at 4:02 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    E. Hanover, NJ
    Posts
    443
    BIN will clean up with ammonia and water, no need for DNA.

    https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/Di...ocker_TDS.ashx
    Last edited by Conrad Fiore; 07-28-2016 at 5:39 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    Tasmania
    Posts
    2,162
    Look up the technical data sheet for the top coat and it should tell you the recommended primer. Use that product. It is always risky mixing different brands in the one job. I'm not surprised you had hard work sanding. Alkyd's are like that. Cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,770
    BIN Pigmented Shellac works great under Advance. As said, it cleans up easily with ammonia in water followed by soap and water, and a wipe with DNA or lacquer thinner for anything still left. It sands beautifully, too. Another advantage of BIN over water based primers is it avoids grain raising.

    If your Advance isn't sanding to powder you need to wait longer for it to dry/cure. I just sprayed a project with both products last weekend. The Advance was dry enough to sand to powder after 20 hours. Two coats of primer, and two of Advance, all coats dry sanded but the last, and it looks like it came from a factory.

    John

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Sedalia, Mo
    Posts
    12
    Benjamin Moore makes a primer for advance. It's part of the advance line and dries quickly and sands great. I just built a set of kitchen cabinets and sprayed two coats of the primer on. Let them dry overnight and go to sanding. One note though the advance primer is much heavier then the top coat in viscosity and solid content. I had to use a different size tip to get it to lay down.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    261
    Thanks for the replies everyone.

    John and Matt, your experiences are very valuable and I was hoping to hear exactly that. BIN is mentioned a lot in my search, not so much the BM Advance and non-Advance primers. My local Orchard does not carry Advance primer. The other orange store carries BIN. My other concern is that the Earlex is not powerful enough to deal with the viscosity of the primers and require a lot of thinning.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,932
    I used the standard SW high adhesion primer under BM Advance with good success...I happened to have it handy so I used it. As Matt mentions, BM has a "matched" primer, too.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Wenatchee. Wa
    Posts
    771
    I have sprayed several large panels with Advance thru a Fugi 4 with good results until you compare it to a factory finish. Sigh. Used BIN which drys quick and sands glass smooth. Cannot see any advantage to using BMs primer other than water clean up. The deal er told me that drying time is the same for the primer as it is for the paint 16 hrs. And BIN can be tinted easily. Good luck and keep us informed. BM Advance appears to be a excellent product and hopefully someday they will develop a sprayable version for HVLP systems without the excessive thinning needed now.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,770
    I have no idea if your Earlex can spray Advance, but I'm sure it can spray BIN pigmented shellac primer. The BIN primer has a measured viscosity of about 35 sec #4 Ford cup, which is lower than the WB clear coats I spray. It sprays beautifully. Advance, on the other hand, has a viscosity of about 500 seconds. That's right 500 seconds. It sprays great with my new pressure assisted (up to about 7 psi) HVLP gun w/o thinning. Whether or not it will spray w/o thinning though an Earlex; I have no clue. If you have a 1.5 mm or larger N/N and the Earlex cup is pressurized then I suspect it will. I sprayed it with a 1.5 N/N at 5 psi on the 3M PPS cup. Advance takes so long to flash over that I would not want to thin it much unless you are only spraying horizontal surfaces, for fear of it running.

    And, seriously, no lie, my results looked like it came out of a factory.

    John

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Wenatchee. Wa
    Posts
    771
    "It sprays great with my new pressure assisted (up to about 7 psi) HVLP gun"

    What is a pressure assisted HVLP gun?

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,770
    Quote Originally Posted by Bernie Kopfer View Post
    "It sprays great with my new pressure assisted (up to about 7 psi) HVLP gun"

    What is a pressure assisted HVLP gun?

    It's a HVLP gun where the finish is supplied under pressure to the gun, whether it be from a separate pressure pot or pressurized cup connected directly to the gun. Do a Google search for "pressure HVLP spray gun"; you'll get plenty of hits. The advantage is you can spray high viscosity finishes, use a smaller N/N for better atomization, and spray at any angle.

    John

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Reno, NV
    Posts
    261
    The Earlex cup is pressurized via a direct connection to the gun. I sprayed BM Advance, 10% thin with water, on a birch plywood-poplar trim bookcase recently in 80 F weather using a 1.5mm nozzle. I think the Earlex only develops 4 PSI maximum (don't quote me on this). I am satisfied with the result, which was much better than the test piece that I brushed and rolled. I didn't have any run, or orange peel. It didn't sand very well between coats, but I only waited for about 14 hours. I didn't know Advance takes much longer to dry between sanding. For that bookcase, I used Zinsser Sealcoat (some left over from another project), sanded with 320 grit before spraying the Advance. I thought for this built-in, which is in the living room, I want to use a primer that is better suited to Advance.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    WNY
    Posts
    9,770
    I should correct a statement in my last post. You can spray at any angle with an air assisted HVLP gun IF it's fed from a separate pressure pot or you use the 3M PPS system like I do. For other arrangements, probably including the Earlex but I'm not sure, you are still relying on gravity to get the finish to the dip tube, gun inlet, etc.

    The ability to spray at any angle is one reason I went with the 3M PPS system.

    John

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •