Joinery options for file cabinet

[J D Thomas]

I am in the beginning stages of designing a 3-drawer file cabinet for my office. And I'm looking for suggestions as to the joinery for the 2 sides and back.

The project will be made from 3/4" riftsawn red oak, with 1/2" oak plywood panels. As shown in the attached Sketchup drawing, sides and back will be mortise and tenon joinery.

I am initially leaning toward a locking rabbet joint for the sides/back. I could do mortise and tenon, but that is quite a bit more labor intensive. I really don't want to do a simple rabbet joint.

Any other ideas out there?

[Jon Nuckles]

Are you asking about the joint between the sides and the back? If so, you are gluing the stile of one piece to the stile of the other: a long grain joint. A butt joint there will be stronger than the wood itself. If the back won't show, you can just glue it inside the two sides. Anything else you do to the joint, such as a rabbet in the sides or a locking rabbet, would just help align the joint for gluing, but won't affect the joint's strength. If the back will show, you could miter the edges.

[Lee Schierer]

For appearance purposes, make the stiles for the back 3/4" narrower than the sides so that when they are glued to the sides, they appear to be the same width. Be sure to account for your joint dimensions if you decide to o with the locking rabbit joint.

[J D Thomas]

Aha, now both of you have me thinking. My original intent was the join the back inside the sides and now you both have me thinking about putting the back on the outside. Then Lee's advice for changing the width of the rear stiles is a good point.

Yes, the design is to have the back show. Whether or not it does in use is a minor point. I'll know it's there.

This type of design dilemma is precisely what I love SketchUp!

[Gene Davis]

Biscuits for alignment, glue. It'll be on The Antiques Roadshow in 2116.