Safe alternative to bandsaw for ripping down 2x2 into 1/8" strips?

[lowell holmes]

Hey guys,
Go back and read my post on the subject.
The strips fall safely away from the blade. There is absolutely no binding between the blade and fence.
Push sticks are not needed, actually can't be used. It is the only fast, safe way I know of.

Most importantly, your fingers are never in danger and kick back is non-existent.
The magnets are switchable, see the link.

https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...FQaKaQodtNkJmw

[Jerry Olexa]

Table saw plus a Grrripper

[Scott Perkins47]

Lowell, I couldnt make sense of your first post and the second was not any clearer.
Please try harder :-)

[Garth Almgren]

I think Lowell is talking about using a stop like the thin rip jig like the one Rockler sells, moving the fence and material over against the stop for each successive cut.
https://youtu.be/Cpfcq-QHkgk for example.
Make sure you have a zero clearance insert as well.

[glenn bradley]

The 0P lost interest after his second post. It is interesting to see that people feel so strongly about their chosen method for something that can be done so many different ways. Let's just remember we are all different and we're all comfortable doing things different ways. I do disagree that an 1/8 inch strip between Blade and fence is inherently dangerous. On a well tuned saw this cut is not a problem.

[Cody Colston]

I do disagree that an 1/8 inch strip between Blade and fence is inherently dangerous. On a well tuned saw this cut is not a problem.

It's not at all dangerous but I suppose "danger" is in the eye of the beholder. As with most any task, there are multiple ways to safely accomplish it. I would set the fence to 1/8" and use a sacrificial push stick but evidently others aren't comfortable doing it that way. Different folks, different methods.

[Pat Barry]

Sooner or later you are going to end up with a narrow strip of wood between the fence and the blade and then what are you going to do? Personally, I'd much rather have the cut off 1/8: strip be the piece in that position for this situation. That way you don't need to continually reset the fence and add the additional variabilty to your finished parts. I would advocate though, that you use a disposable push stick for this job so that you hold the 2x2 securely as you cut, particularly the last couple passes.

[lowell holmes]

OK!, Garth has it correct. I use a nagnet because I didn't know about the jig.

Let me try to explain it better.

I take a switchable magnet and set it 1/8" to the left of the blade 6" in front of the blade. This is about 4" from the front of the saw table.

Then you move your fence with the board left until the side of the board is touching the magnet. The magnet is acting as a rip stop. I lock the fence and rip the board.

This leaves you with a 1/8" ripped piece to the left of the blade, laying on its side.

Remove the 1/8" ripping , move the fence and board until the board touches the magnet and repeat the cut.

This is really safe, your fingers never get close to the blade if you use a push stick.

I have made 1/16" rippings with this method. As someone mentioned, use a zero clearance setup.

[Ben Rivel]

I use this Peachtree Thin Rip Table Saw Jig: LINK

Same style as the Rockler one, but better build quality.