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Thread: Wrong plug end on this TS cord?

  1. #1

    Wrong plug end on this TS cord?

    With the new Griz 1023 in my garage, it's time to plug it in and tune it up however I've run into a little bit of a conundrum.

    Not being super savvy on electrical stuff but having googled it a bit, I've managed to make myself more confused while trying to figure this out.

    My saw came with the plug in the photo below. This appears to be an under spec plug for the amperage of the saw (5HP model, 30amp). Am I correct in this statement?

    Also, it doesn't match the 240 receptacle in my space which looks more like the dryer plug style receptacle. I'm planning on installing a new receptacle in the wall beside my saw (because it's directly adjacent the fuse box, I'm assuming this will be superior in all ways to running cord from the other corner of the garage (20 ft) to my saw.

    The question is: what plug end should I be using? Also, the breaker is 30amps which might be a touch on the low side for when the saw first fires up. Should I beef that breaker up as well?

    IMG_7857.jpg

  2. #2
    I believe the pic is a 20A. plug, but 5Hp should draw ~23-24A.(max). Griz recommends L6-30 for plug - - so I'd replace it.
    Also recommend 30A for breaker, so what you have should work on start up (all breakers will ride through the brief start-up, inrush current 'overload').

  3. #3
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    I think Malcolm is correct; it looks like a 20amp plug for a 110 (?) circuit. But I am not an electrician.

    I would suggest you look at the motor plate to make sure you have a 5hp motor . . . . .

    Google photos shows it as a 6-15 plug, which is not the one spec'd for your saw IF you got the right saw and motor combo. Grizzly does spec a 6-15 on one of their other cabinet saws, but I think it is a 3hp, 13 amp.


    IF it is the right saw/motor combo, switching the plug is easy enough but make sure the wire gauge is heavy enough for a 30amp circuit.
    Last edited by Patrick McCarthy; 08-22-2016 at 1:06 PM.

  4. #4
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    I am no expert but it looks like a 20amp 110 volt plug. I don't think you can run a 5hp motor off of 110 volt. You need to check the motor plate and the way it is wired inside. Don't just change the plug and hope.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lee cox View Post
    I am no expert but it looks like a 20amp 110 volt plug. I don't think you can run a 5hp motor off of 110 volt. You need to check the motor plate and the way it is wired inside. Don't just change the plug and hope.
    Its 20a 240v, the one prong being crosswise is the difference..

    Malcom has it right.

  6. #6
    I am guessing you did not buy from grizzly they do not supply machines with plugs.
    For what it is worth all of my machines use 220v plugs as shown some are 5hp no problems.
    If you are concerned just change it.

  7. #7
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    My 220 volt 20amp has 2 prongs crosswise. I don't use much 20amp 220 volt as I standardized on 30amp twist lock plug.

  8. #8
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    You might want to standardize on your 220 volt plugs so if you mover things around it all still will work.
    Last edited by lee cox; 08-22-2016 at 1:30 PM.

  9. #9
    It's definitely a 5HP saw. The motor plate states 5HP and 30amps. It's an older saw that I recently purchased. I suspect the previous owner didn't really pay much mind to the plug amperage rating and just wired it with what he had on hand. Since I have to make changes either way, I'm thinking I'll follow the advise stated and standardized on the locking type.

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick McCarthy View Post
    I think Malcolm is correct; it looks like a 20amp plug for a 110 (?) circuit. But I am not an electrician.

    I would suggest you look at the motor plate to make sure you have a 5hp motor . . . . .

    Google photos shows it as a 6-15 plug, which is not the one spec'd for your saw IF you got the right saw and motor combo. Grizzly does spec a 6-15 on one of their other cabinet saws, but I think it is a 3hp, 13 amp.


    IF it is the right saw/motor combo, switching the plug is easy enough but make sure the wire gauge is heavy enough for a 30amp circuit.

  10. #10
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    I guess you know if you extend your 220v 30amp plug you will give up your current plug. You need 1 breaker per plug. You can't string a bunch of 220v 30amp plugs together like stringing lights on one 110v 20amp breaker.

  11. Quote Originally Posted by lee cox View Post
    I guess you know if you extend your 220v 30amp plug you will give up your current plug. You need 1 breaker per plug. You can't string a bunch of 220v 30amp plugs together like stringing lights on one 110v 20amp breaker.
    Well, you can daisy chain 220 but it's not to code from my understanding and you can't run the machines at the same time.

    I suggest standardizing all your plugs. I went with the twist lock plugs. The are expensive but nice and beefy. I hate that grizzly sends out their machines with crappy plugs on them. It really irks me to get a brand new tool and even before I turn it on I have to cut it up.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by lee cox View Post
    I guess you know if you extend your 220v 30amp plug you will give up your current plug. You need 1 breaker per plug. You can't string a bunch of 220v 30amp plugs together like stringing lights on one 110v 20amp breaker.
    Apparently you can - at least in my neck of the world. I had licensed electrician wire my shop with a single 50A circuit with 3 receptacles (2 ea. L6-30R, 1 ea. 6-20R). It was inspected by municipality while I explained what it was for - single tool use. It passed with no issues or raised eyebrows.

    Edit: L6-30 are for 5Hp/240v, 6-20 is for 3Hp/240V (and wish I'd used the L6-20). Everything else is 110V/20A.

    And FYI for those interested -
    Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 08-22-2016 at 2:15 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malcolm McLeod View Post
    Apparently you can - at least in my neck of the world. I had licensed electrician wire my shop with a single 50A circuit with 3 receptacles (2 ea. L6-30R, 1 ea. 6-20R). It was inspected by municipality while I explained what it was for - single tool use. It passed with no issues or raised eyebrows.

    Edit: L6-30 are for 5Hp/240v, 6-20 is for 3Hp/240V (and wish I'd used the L6-20). Everything else is 110V/20A.

    And FYI for those interested -
    Correct.
    He needs a plug and receptacle rated for 30 Amp 250 Volt and needs to make sure the panel, breaker and wiring is sized to match.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malcolm McLeod View Post
    Apparently you can - at least in my neck of the world. I had licensed electrician wire my shop with a single 50A circuit with 3 receptacles (2 ea. L6-30R, 1 ea. 6-20R). It was inspected by municipality while I explained what it was for - single tool use. It passed with no issues or raised eyebrows.

    Edit: L6-30 are for 5Hp/240v, 6-20 is for 3Hp/240V (and wish I'd used the L6-20). Everything else is 110V/20A.

    And FYI for those interested -
    I would like to string plugs together because I am out of breaker space. What size wire did you use? Was the wire sized to the tool or the circuit?

  15. #15
    It was several years ago and done by someone else, but #6 copper (Romex) is rattling around in my head...???

    There may be provision to use #8 THHN copper? But now you need conduit (if not in code, I'd certainly encourage it). I also recall something about wire smaller than #6 copper if it is for a motor AND it has overload protection AT the motor...?

    Caveat: I'm not an electrician! Nor do I have NEC rules as a tattoo. Please consult an expert. And legal in one jurisdiction, is not always legal in next.
    Last edited by Malcolm McLeod; 08-22-2016 at 3:56 PM.

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