. . . But I have a feeling that I will be ostracized from this sub forum with my viewpoints. I've read several threads and posts about the nuances of everyones favorite sharpening system, and thought I'd offer some views from the opposite extreme. First off, I majored in furniture design at RIT, ran a high-end furniture / cabinet shop for ten years (as a professional, NOT a hobbyist) which resulted in national and international awards as well as being published in FWW's Design Book Six, so I can speak with some degree of authority on this subject, although that kindof means nothing compared to the fact that I purchased my first japanese waterstone in 1981, and have since worn it down to the point that I needed a new one in the early 90's (Which I still use).

Trust me, I HAD your romance. I still kindof do have it - nobody likes a dull blade. I've used white and black hard arkansas stones etc, so I know the breadth of all your arguments (Still favor waterstones - they cut so fast).

So basically, the novelty wore off after a few years, and I would like to share my method that has served me so well ever since, and I likely can sharpen blades at least 2X or more faster than most of you with these methods.

Here it is:
40 grit wheel on a 4" 12K RPM hand grinder to re-establish the hollow grind faster, and less chance of burning than setting the chisel or plane iron up on my upright grinder (at least up until I get off my lazy butt and mount a coarser wheel on it).

Then pull out my 1500 grit waterstone out of its plastic cookie jar in the shop sink and hone a perfect edge - face and back enough to shave with.

That takes about 90 seconds tops, because waterstones cut so fast. If, for some reason, I want that mirror edge that splits atoms, I run the edge on my plastic buffer thats always loaded with white rouge. But that is stupid, because even if paring a tenon face, the edge is dulled within a few minutes to the original 1500 grit waterstone edge equivalent.

So now that most of you hate me, let me give a few tips that will bring me back into your good graces, hopefully (This is all in jest really - not trying to start arguments - I love pretty much all woodworkers).

Best thing I did when I discovered diamond hones was to buy the big ones (solid, not honeycombed) then cut them into four pcs, 1" x 3" or so and grind a back bevel on one edge for sharpening drill bits, router bits, etc and then keep one in your pocket all day long. Way faster to pull it out and dress your tool right on the spot, than to walk across the shop to go through the "sharpening ceremony" that appears to be so popular here .

The next coolest thing I discovered was thin diamond blades designed for sharpening carbide. I acquired about five blades - all about 600 grit continuous diamond on the outer 3/8", and about 1/16" wide "kerf", but unfortunately had a 1" arbor, so I made a bushing to fit them on my Unisaw.

Then I made a magnetic based centering jig with a sliding dovetail slot where I match the face grind bevel on my carbide saw blades, and hone the inner tooth faces, and Viola! - I can sharpen my own blades within minutes without sending them off to be sharpened. Great for carbide router bits too. Get one of these diamond blades online, and you will thank me for it.

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