Well I Took The Plunge

[Mike Goetzke]

Stew - you will really enjoy the tool. I justified my Domino purchase when I built a crib for my daughters baby (first grandchild). Must have had close to 40 slats. Each slat had 4 mortises. Plus the headboard had my first bent lamination - attaching it was a breeze with Domino tenons. Like mentioned above, I had to make some custom stops using PVC pipe and made a custom trim stop for 1/2" thick material (that also required the Domiplate). So use your imagination!

Enjoy,

Mike

[mark mcfarlane]

I've only had a few chances to use my Domino so far but in general it works great.

My biggest challenge was cutting the mortises in the middle of a large piece and keeping the 500 from moving, i.e. cuts where you can't use the fence on the Domino to hold the machine in one position. I thought about double-stick taping some sandpaper on the domino, but practice will probably cure my newbie problem.

[Kevin Womer]

I've only had a few chances to use my Domino so far but in general it works great. My biggest challenge was cutting the mortises in the middle of a large piece and keeping the 500 from moving, i.e. cuts where you can't use the fence on the Domino to hold the machine in one position. I thought about double-stick taping some sandpaper on the domino, but practice will probably cure my newbie problem.

Clamping a board such as in a shelf you want to attach for instance, gives something to push the domino against helping to keep it from drifting. I would try sandpaper, it sounds like a good idea. Everything I have read says to plunge slowly as this does help with drift In my experience. You can use a domino plate if you are attaching to an end of a piece such as in the sides of a shelf, but the problem you mention applies more to what would be middle shelves on a piece, if that makes sense...

[jack duren]

It's a great tool but doesn't replace a M&T where a quality joint should be used. Knowing when you should and shouldn't is the difference. Enjoy, it's fun..

[Jim Becker]

It's a great tool but doesn't replace a M&T where a quality joint should be used. Knowing when you should and shouldn't is the difference. Enjoy, it's fun..

Of course, the Domino makes M&T joints, so as long as they are properly sized they will be just as nice as hand-cut ones. Likely more precise for most of us, too.

[Dick Mahany]

I was a total skeptic, but after watching many videos on the use of the Domino, I went for the smaller 500 unit. Wished I had done it years ago. I just completed 20 Euro style cabinets for my new garage (shop) and was blown away at how fast the cabinet boxes went together. Dust collection was incredible with an ordinary orange big box shop vac.
The smaller Domino is perfect for my needs, and I have zero regrets about that relatively expensive purchase. I also took the plunge for the Euro LR32 driling system, and am a true convert.

Learn to use the tool and it will pay rewards that you likely haven't imagined yet

[jack duren]

Of course, the Domino makes M&T joints, so as long as they are properly sized they will be just as nice as hand-cut ones. Likely more precise for most of us, too.

Seen a lot of failed Domino's. Can't say that about a true M&T. Have two for work, but won't use on personal projects where a good stress joint should be used...

[Stew Hagerty]

It's a great tool but doesn't replace a M&T where a quality joint should be used. Knowing when you should and shouldn't is the difference. Enjoy, it's fun..

As I said, I do have a Powermatic Mortiser, and a Delta Tenoning Jig. But you're right, figuring out which one to use when is going to be the key. Any advice?

[Stew Hagerty]

Are the domino spacers you speak of for use with fences having pins? If so dominos sold now, at least the 500, are sold with paddles not pins and would not work on newer models. What is the purpose of the spacers?

Thanks for the heads up Kevin. I had bought the spacers, but thanks to your post, I was able to catch the seller before they were shipped and they refunded my money. At least I am assuming that this will be one of the "newer" variety since I am buying it new and is coming from CPO.

[Allan Dozier]

I bought one of the original units not long after it came out and am surprised at the many varied things I have used it on. Another advantage is when designing a project or adapting plans for one you don't need to take into account the tenon lengths. Just cut the pieces like for a butt joint. Not a huge advantage but easy on the old mind and fast.

[Sean Nagle]

Every now and then I have a yearning to buy a Domino. However, when I look at my docket of projects, I just don't know what I would use the Domino for. I don't get a lot of shop time for projects, so the serious projects I take on tend to be heirloom quality "furniture", for which I would always do "real" mortise and tenon joinery. There are shop projects now and then for which the Domino would be great. However, I do have a Lamello biscuit joiner which works just fine for glue-up alignment and cabinetry-grade work. If you happen to have a Domino, it would work just as well for for these tasks. If I had to replace my Lamello, I would buy a Domino since the pricing is surprisingly similar.

The Domino that I would want falls between the 500 and 700 models. The 500 is too small and the 700 is too large. Festool needs to come out with a Goldilocks version, a model 600.

It's also difficult to spend Festool money for a handheld power tool. I could put the same money toward upgrading my benchtop mortising machine to a floor-standing, tilting-head, 1" mortiser or I could buy a couple more heirloom-quality tools from Lie-Nielsen. If the Domino was less than $500, I'd already have one.

[mreza Salav]

Seen a lot of failed Domino's. Can't say that about a true M&T. Have two for work, but won't use on personal projects where a good stress joint should be used...

Can't think of a reason why a true M/T of the same size/thickness would be stronger (in a significant way) than a domino, can you please explain?
My thinking is A true M/T has half the joint of a domino (a tenon in a mortise). If a domino is going to fail, a true M/T is at least 1/2 likely to fail on the M/T side as well.
So the weakest point of a joint (if there is any) is identical in both.
However, I agree there are situations that you need BIG M/T that domino is not suitable for (I would still use a true M/T then).

[lowell holmes]

I have a tenoning jig that has gathered dust in my closet for years. I can cut tenons by hand quicker than it takes to break out the jig. It is a glorious tool, but not worth the effort to set up and use it.

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks for the heads up Kevin. I had bought the spacers, but thanks to your post, I was able to catch the seller before they were shipped and they refunded my money. At least I am assuming that this will be one of the "newer" variety since I am buying it new and is coming from CPO.

I'm sorry about that, Stew. I had no idea that the new Dominos no longer have the spacing pins. I'm glad you caught it in time. Can someone post pics of the "pin-less" Domino? I'm really curious what they use now.

[Chris Padilla]

Seen a lot of failed Domino's. Can't say that about a true M&T. Have two for work, but won't use on personal projects where a good stress joint should be used...

Post some pics of these failed joints. I have a hard time believing it. It really doesn't make any sense since the floating and integral tenons are nearly identical. And if you buy that the glue is stronger than the wood, then there is more glue involved with a floating vs. integral tenon.