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Thread: Coarse Disston crosscut saw

  1. #1
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    Coarse Disston crosscut saw

    I recently picked up a 28" No. 7 Disston at a yard sale, and beyond needing light rust and grime removal it is in good condition. The saw is stamped at the heel and filed at 6 PPI.

    What struck me as odd was that the teeth are shaped in a crosscut pattern. The teeth shaping looks original or at least professionally done, so it isn't obvious that it is a reshape of a rip saw. Looking at the Disstonian Institute catalogs, they did sell crosscut 28" saws in 5-8 PPI. The same page also said that the handle was for a 28" rip due to the smooth cutout at the top for two-handed cuts.

    My current set of hand saws are on the finer end (8 PPI rip, 11 PPI crosscut) but a bit slow in long cuts, so I was looking for a coarser set for faster rough stock cuts. Would 6 PPI be far too coarse for crosscutting (typically 4/4 oak and other hardwoods)?

  2. #2
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    6 PPI x-cut might be a bit coarse for 4/4 work, better in 8/4, and really coming into its own in 12/4.
    My 5 PPI and 6 PPI x-cuts get used in thicker stock; not often but I'm glad they're in the till.
    AKA - "The human termite"

  3. #3
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    Hi Greg,

    For 4/4 hardwood I like to use 10 PPI. I find that 5.5 or 6 PPI is just too difficult to push but I'm not a strong guy.

    Normand

  4. #4
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    +1 for 10 tpi cross cut hand saws. The cut finer.

    I have 8 tpi also. The 8 is more for quick cuts, but when I'm working on a refined piece, 10 tpi is my choice.

  5. #5
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    I have an 8 and a 10 tpi but wish I could find a 6 tpi for 2x and thicker stock. I've thought about refiling one of my saws that need rehabbing but that's at the end of a long to-do list.

  6. #6
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    My 6 ppi crosscut was used to cut old rail road ties for stair steps. Worked pretty good.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  7. #7
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    I have a 7 PPI # 7 Disston that I pretty sure was my grandfather's and was, for sure, my father's. Marv Werner set it up as a coarse, softwood XCut. It works well that way. Haven't used it on hardwood.

  8. #8
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    Greg,

    I think a 6 point in cross cut is a fantastic combination. I have a 1900 Disston #12 that is in this configuration, and I use it as my general purpose go to saw when I need to make a quick cut. While the orthodox view is the teeth are two coarse for thinner stock, I've never had a problem. At the 60 degree angle that most people use to cross cut, you still have over 6 points in the cut which is more than enough. The massive gullets can carry a lot of dust, and the saw will cut very quickly. If you are doing framing or something where finish is not important, it's hard to argue against this pitch of this saw. Best thing to do it sharpen it and give it a go. I'd be surprised if you didn't love it. One word of caution, you can get a very nasty cut or even sever a finger if you don't pay attention to where the fingers of your non-sawing hand are located. Be careful!

    Regards,

    Pete

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Saffold View Post
    I have an 8 and a 10 tpi but wish I could find a 6 tpi for 2x and thicker stock. I've thought about refiling one of my saws that need rehabbing but that's at the end of a long to-do list.
    If you need paper patterns to tape to the saw for tooth spacing, they are available on line. If not, I can send you a pdf that you can print for the spacing.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chuck Nickerson View Post
    6 PPI x-cut might be a bit coarse for 4/4 work, better in 8/4, and really coming into its own in 12/4.
    My 5 PPI and 6 PPI x-cuts get used in thicker stock; not often but I'm glad they're in the till.



    +1, I agree with everything Chuck said. I actually have a 28 inch D8, 5 PPI filed cross cut – it's great for anything 8/4 or thicker. I particularly like it for construction grade lumber. Building my brother-in-law's patio cover it came in very handy, particularly if you don't mind breaking a sweat.

  11. #11
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    I recommend the Ron Herman video "Sharpen Your Handsaw". A lot of questions raised in this string will be answered by viewing it.
    It is available for download. I learned to sharpen handsaws by viewing the video. I have had no trouble filing the teeth
    smooth on a saw and filing new teeth at the tpi I wanted and making it crosscut or rip. I have made junker saws into
    good saws. If I can do it anyone that wants to can.

    It only takes a few hours to change the saw tpi and make it cross cut or rip.

  12. #12
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    Thanks, Lowell, I have the patterns. They help a lot when laying out new teeth.
    Paul

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