What grit do you start with when sanding?

[George Bokros]

I have some raised panels I just ran the profile on my router table and the field is smooth from the planer. In the past I found that using 100 grit left a surface not as smooth as what came out of the planer or off the router table. I am thinking I would start with 120 or 150 grit and for this project I have only been sanding up to 180 grit.

How do you determine what grit to start with? I realize it depends on how rough the surface is but what do you do with stock out of the planer or off the router table? Is there some surface test you do to determine the starting grit or is the rule always start with a minimum of 100 grit?

Thanks

[Bruce Page]

I start at 150 with softer woods and 120 on hard woods. I usually finish at 220, occasionally finish at 320. I rarely use 100 unless I'm trying to work out a blemish.

[Chris Merriam]

I always start with 120. While sanding if I see a defect that's not disappearing fast enough I'll drop down to 80, then back to 120

[Chris Padilla]

I usually start with 80-grit but usually a "likely worn to 100 or 120 grit" 80-grit disc for my ROS.

[Marc Burt]

I almost always start with 120. Unless I did a really poor job with the glue up.

[jack duren]

80 grit to eliminate defects and finish with 120. Remember that too high a grit accepts less finish so beware unless going natural...

[George Bokros]

80 grit to eliminate defects and finish with 120. Remember that too high a grit accepts less finish so beware unless going natural...

Sounds like an aweful coarse start and not vrty smooth finish to me. IMO.

[Matt Day]

80 grit to eliminate defects and finish with 120. Remember that too high a grit accepts less finish so beware unless going natural...

+1
........

[Jim Becker]

80 or 100, depending on the project and species.

[Mark W Pugh]

80 or 100, depending on the project and species.

80, is this because of big tool marks? I think I way over sand. So, if I don't have a lot of tool marks, do I need to start at 80?

Another question. Do you guys make your project thickness a little bigger so you can and it down smooth? Example, I plane to 3/4", but I need to sand the crap out of it for tool marks. What say you?

[Jim Finn]

I use 100 grit to do any shaping. (Rounding corners a bit) 180 grit after that to remove 100 grit scratches. I use 180-400 grit to sand between coats of finish.

[Art Mann]

If I started with 80 grit on a furniture or cabinet project where the material was run through my planer, I would be making the finish worse. I typically start with 120 grit though not always.

[John Lankers]

I use Abranet on my Mirka Ceros and start at P120 then P180 and finish with P240 on flat surfaces, I usually hand sand profiles. Plywood gets a once over with P240.
My go to tool for face frame faces and door edges is my hand plane unless I get huge tearout.

[Wayne Lomman]

The test is whether it worked. With more experience you get better at the starting point. I generally start a grade finer such as start with 120 and go back to 80 only if I'm not getting anywhere. I also keep touching the surface - if it's getting warm either the grit is too fine or the abrasive is worn. Jack Duren's approach is right. Too fine is wasted effort. Also, when staining, you can colour match by sanding dark areas finer than light areas before stain application. This varies the penetration and therefore colour. Cheers

[Martin Wasner]

I start sanding with whatever grit I plan on completing my sanding with. I've got a really decent widebelt sander though. Most of the time I'm roughing it back up with a da after running through the widebelt.