[OP]
Contributor
Hello, I have an opportunity to buy some old ( new ) cedar shingles. I have one side of my barn left to shingle. These shingles are bundled and stored on a pallet in a garage of a deceased contractor. My question is can shingles be too dry or can ther be other issues that I should be aware of. They will be stained when project is completed. Thanks in advance, Kevin
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Moderator
Kevin, I have no experience with these except for burying a mountain of these that were pulled of the timberframe house when I bought this house, apparently after being up for less than five years. I have no idea why but I assume they had problems with them.Originally Posted by kevin nee
It seems to me that even if very dry thin cedar would quickly absorb moisture to 12-15% if left outside, if that would make a difference. I did read where old time roofers used a gimlet to drill a hole before pegging the shingle to the roof, perhaps to minimize splitting. That would be easier to do today.
Perhaps the owner will give or sell to you just a few shingles for you to try and see if there are any issues.
JKJ
Contributor
If you don't want them I'd be happy to have them! Bugs and rot would be the only issues you might run into, unlikely of they've been stored dry.
Member
If they're very dry, they may split when nailing them down if things aren't very flat. Use the correct nails to apply them with, make sure they have blunt points. I recommend Maze brand, a little more money but a superior U.S. made nail. I dislike airgun nails for cedar, not enough galvanizing.
Store them outside with a cover of plywood over the top(only) for a few months, they'll be very usable. You could also mist them with water in the evenings to let them absorb moisture over night; this time of year they should be ready to apply in a week or so.
Contributor
Being overly persnickety, I pre-drill and don't worry about things like that. Some folk recommend "treating" cedar shingles, but you likely know that. Good luck.
Member
What kind of Cedar are they. It would make a difference to me. Western Red I wouldn't worry a bit. Eastern I haven't a clue.
Bracken's Pond Woodworks[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Member
Kevin, Am going to expose the old-timer in me by telling you that in 1951 at age 16, I helped shingle a huge barn out here in Iowa. It was summer and we had a stock tank tank to the job filled with water. Threw the bundle of shingles in the tank the night before. Next day...no problems with splitting, plus the shingle are then swelled to the max and never will bulge.. Drove past there last summer and the shingles are still in place.....do the math. Had a wet shoulder when carrying them up and a wet backside but the paycheck was great for a 16 year old. My advice....soak 'em! Justin
Contributor
Ive done a fair amount of Cedar shingles.Its been a while since i opened a bundle but i do remember they should be a little moist in the middle of the bundles.
I think you should pull out a couple bundles and slip some out of the middle and see how much bend you can get till they break.
Wide ones should be cut down.
I guess you could wet them just not sure how much.
Aj
Member
Any idea what length and grade they are? Are they rebutted and rejointed on all sides? Should be fine if they were protected from the elements.
Would second using either Maze hot dipped or Sawn stainless ring shank nails driven by hand.
Member
Cedar shingles don't go bad just by drying out. The proper install method is based on common sense and actual condition of material. Wet or damp shingles are fit tight, though they dry with a small gap between. Dry shingles need to be applied with a small space between to allow the eventual swelling. Very enjoyable work.
Maze double dipped galvanized #3 box nails are the standard here.
Contributor
This.
Red or white both work well. Buy or rent a 1/2" crown stapler, I use a Senco Red Top, and use stainless staples. Staples hold better than nails, stainless will never rust, and are way faster for a job that is naturally slow. With staples give them a slightly downward angle, one on each side and make the staples horizontal so they are across the grain. With wet you can just jamb them tight and not worry about spacing. I know traditional is nails, but I have thousands of square out there with staples and absolutely zero problems
I just finished a House on Lake Michigan with 107 square on the walls, I'm over it for a while!
I love the look, have them on my own house, on the walls, not the roof.
Contributor
Some of the shingles will probably have sap wood edges and they need to be trimmed off. There is an older segment of TOH with a crew doing a beach house roof. Even though they were at the end of a row and had to do some trimming they did not trim off the sap edges.
Member
If the shingles are to dry when installed they will buckle when they get wet. So leave a space between them. Not knowing this a few yrs back I put up some red ceder shingles that came in boxes & stored inside. Put them up nice & tight. Next time it rained some of the wider ones buckled because there was no spacing between them.
Member
My grandparents old house was built over 100 yrs ago and has cedar shingles on the roof. Still water tight. I have a farm that I bought and porch posts were cut in 1981 and they are still good. Also there are cedar fence posts here that are still good. All the cedar I am referring to in both examples are eastern cedar cut off each of the farms. Cedar is pretty good material to that deters bugs and weather.
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