"Free Hand" Hollowing Tools

[Ned Ladner]

I will eventually invest in an articulating and captive hollowing system. But, in the interim, I would like to get some hollowing-specific hand-only tools.

Recommendations?

[Brice Rogers]

I watched an expert, Mike Jackofsky doing a hollow form. He used one of his angled positive rake carbide cutters for the bulk of the hollowing and then used a sharp round scraper insert to even out the tooling marks. No hollowing system. He has done over 4,000 hollow forms w/o a hollowing system.

You really don't need a hollowing system. It just makes some things easier for people with less than expert skills (which includes myself).

[John Keeton]

D-Way Tools makes a hollowing tool with an outrigger to minimize torque. It also has a thickness gauge. I watched Dave turn and hollow a vase and turn a finial for it in 90 minutes flat. Impressive!

[Brian Kent]

I just looked at the D-Way with outrigger. That sure looks like a simple idea that takes care of a lot of forces.

[Peter Blair]

Ned I would second the D-Way. I have one and use it on most of my medium sized hollow forms. The tool is a little too large to do very small openings and is a little short to do deep but I would assume that is on purpose. A good tool, easy to sharpen and like most of Dave's tools, just works!

[Brice Rogers]

I have made a couple of hollowing rigs. My first one was a captive hollower and the 2nd one was along the lines of a Monster hollower/Eddie Castelin snake hollower.

The captive hollower is a simple project if you can weld or find someone to weld for you. (It could also be done via silver soldering if the tool post fit firmly into the lower piece). There are obviously better hollowing systems out there that will work better than this type, but I'm including it here to show you how simple it can be. Here is a picture of one variation and which I used to model my own:


9 inch bowl steady.JPG

[Michael Schneider]

You might look at trent bosch's tools. You can use his freehand, then add the stabilizer later if you like.

Happy Turning
Michael

[Jeramie Johnson]

I have made my own captive one as mentioned by Brice. Works well. I also have Trent's free hand. I don't hollow much, but for bowls that I make the lips come inward like the calabash, I find grabbing Trent's tools very handy. I have not used, but I like the simplicity of Dave's (D-Way), with the feeler gauge. His video using it is very impressive.

[John W Dixon]

I'll second the Trent Bosch hollowing tools. I have been very happy with them.

[Reed Gray]

I have the Kelton hollowing set up, and since I have a laser for my coring blades, it fits right on the handle for hollowing. Not too difficult, though it does take some practice. I think a NRS would be perfect for evening things all out, though it may take a sharpening or three to complete the job. Lots of ways to do it. I have seen several variations of 'feeler' gauges, which work very well.

robo hippy

[Mike Nathal]

Many hand held hollowing tools are meant to be inserted into handles ( the Keltons and Trent Bosch, for example). This allows you to use the same tools in a captive rig that you buy later. I have the Kelton 0.5 inch diameter hand held, and then bought a captive rig with 0.75 inch boring bar. The Keltons work great in the captive rig and provide flexibility when I want a smaller hole.

[Richard Dooling]

I'll also recommend Trent's tools. Very effective and sturdy. I use the M2 HSS tips. Easy to keep sharp as opposed to some of the more complicated tip shapes. I plan on getting the stabilizer - maybe Christmas. . .

http://www.trentbosch.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=1

[Scott Hackler]

I do quite a bit of hollowing and own several hollowing rigs as well as Trent's 1/2 bars to hand hollow and use in the rigs. Nothing fancy about them, he just happen to be standing at the booth I while I was walking around at a symposium and so I bought from him. Looking after the fact, it would seem that Trent, Ellsworth, Jordan, Jackofsky and several others are basically the same thing. I would recommend shopping around and get the best price for basically the same products. I have never had an issue with the bars from Trent, but I am considering buying the carbide inserts to move from the HSS to the "Hunter" type cutters. They are expensive but I know from another hunter tipped bar that the cutting is far superior. One thing to keep in mind it the inability of all these bar sets to exchange the cutters to a sheer scrap or tear drop to smooth out cutting ridges inside. The Monster hollowing rig has the cutters and teardrops, but I am not sure if they sell just the bars and tips.

The hollowing rigs are great for several reasons. No physical stress to hollow, no problem getting the exact thickness you want (with the laser especially), and generally allow for deeper hollowing than you can physically muster by handles. Reason I mention this is to weigh the price difference between a good hand hollowing set with handle vs. a mid sized hollowing rig that comes with everything.

You didn't specify on what size you want to hollow so that make a big difference as well. For example, I make a lot of 4-5" or smaller HFs and use a el cheapo Benjamin's Best from Penn State (only use 2 of the 3 tools because the 3rd one is bent radically) and they work great. The big stuff gets the larger bars.

Hope this helps

[Sam Beagle]

I'm gonna have a buddy of mine who is a fabricator by trade, make one of those holders for the tool rest. Does anyone have any specs on those to make one. Like measurements. I would love if someone could email me something. Samspristineflooring@gmail.com. Thanks in advance. Sam

[Michael Schneider]

Scott,

Just out of curiousity, did you look at Trent's tools that are made with Hunter #1 cutters? (different from the Hunter adapter)

http://www.trentbosch.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=32


Thanks
Michael