Remote switching for air compressor and dust collector

[Rick Christopherson]

Hey all.
Thomas

Thomas, Forum rules prevent me from linking or going into detail, but if you are interested, I can set you up for wireless control of your compressor and DC, plus any other devices, using a single remote (up to 4 devices). But each device module comes with a duplicate remote that still operates all other devices. So you can have multiple remotes scattered about your shop to operate them all. It's not inexpensive, but it is extremely versatile. Without getting into the details, here is an image of the optional 4-button remote used for the systems. It's an aluminum body made for the rugged workshop environment.

[Thomas Hutson]

Had I known about this I would have done it but I already installed switch boxes and j box in the wall for the 110v coil circuits so I think I should continue down that path. If you have any information on what contactor and overload protectors I should use I would appreciate that.

[Jim Becker]

Here's a link to a thread about the contactor I installed for my cyclone:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ight=Contactor

While at that time I spoke about an X10 module, I bagged wireless remote and just have a simple single pole switch centrally located in my shop to turn the system on and off on the control side of the contactor. A wired switch is uber-reliable and can't get lost since it's embedded in the wall.

[Mike Henderson]

I hooked up my air compressor with a 120V contactor (the contactor controls the 240V circuit, but the control part - the coil - is 120V), and then I control the contactor with a sensor that detects when I'm in the shop. The sensor is one of those ones you can buy to turn your lights on when you enter a room. I have a switch that allows me to turn power off to the sensor (which shuts off the contactor and thus the air compressor), and another switch that bypasses the sensor so the air compressor is always powered (the contactor is always powered so the air compressor is always powered).

I can have the air compressor on the sensor, turned off, or always powered.

I like it because I never have to worry about turning it on when I go into the shop, or turning it off when I leave. Often when I enter the shop, the air compressor will start running because it leaked a bit of air overnight.

You could do the same to provide power to your dust collector, and still control the dust collector with a remote control when this sensor is providing power to the DC. If you walked out and left the DC running, it would shut off when the sensor timed out.

Mike

[Here's what it looks like from the sensor:]
Air-compressor-control.jpg

[Rick Christopherson]

If you have any information on what contactor and overload protectors I should use I would appreciate that.

First off, you don't need external motor overload protection, because that is already accounted for in your existing equipment.

You also wouldn't need an external contactor, as my module has that built-in for up to 40 amps at either 120 or 240 volts. The output uses a universal solidstate relay with large heatsink that can handle any voltage from 85 to 250V and up to 40 amps. (I'm also an Electrical Engineer.)

But I'm not going to push it any further, because I only have a couple of these available at the moment.