Templates for JDS Multi-Router

[Izzy Charo]

Hello,
Great tool but unfortunately there is a limited selection of templates for tenons… for example, they don't have a template for a 3/8 X 1-3/4 inch tenon, so you have to make a 2 inch tenon and trim it, not difficult, but ... I was wondering if anyone had figured out how to make their own templates for this machine?
Thanks!
Izzy Charo

[John Sincerbeaux]

I never use the templates for this machine.
All my joinery with the multi router is "floating" tenons. I think it is way easier and quicker. I know David Marks does the same.

[Rick Lizek]

Use loose tenons. The multi router is based on the slot mortiser from Europe. It would take an American to take something real simple and turn into a complicated mess.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

The MultiRouter is the basis for all the precision in my shop. I've got digital readout on two of the axes.
Freaking AMAZING Tool from a Great Company.
Seems to me you can make the template from that very machine. Cut it down from the large one.
I think the templates are aluminum. I've found that anything that will cut wood will cut aluminum.

[richard poitras]

Mike I have a MR as well. I would love to see a picture of how you mounted your digital readout on two of the axes.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

mike i have a mr as well. I would love to see a picture of how you mounted your digital readout on two of the axes.

IMG_2232.jpgIMG_2235.jpgfrom grizzly

[John TenEyck]

Not looking for an argument, and please excuse the tangent, but why would you need a digital readout? If it has stops, just set them and all your mortises will be identical. Getting to the nearest 0.001", or even 0.010", doesn't seem like it would be of any value for a glued joint. I intentionally make mortises at least 1/16" wider than the tenon so I have some adjustment capability. For a joint relying on a purely mechanical fit, OK, I get it; otherwise it seems like overkill with no benefit.

John

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Not looking for an argument, and please excuse the tangent, but why would you need a digital readout? If it has stops, just set them and all your mortises will be identical. Getting to the nearest 0.001", or even 0.010", doesn't seem like it would be of any value for a glued joint. I intentionally make mortises at least 1/16" wider than the tenon so I have some adjustment capability. For a joint relying on a purely mechanical fit, OK, I get it; otherwise it seems like overkill with no benefit.

John

Zillions of uses for digital readout.
Number 1 for me is getting in the exact center, +/- .002. That way I can mess up, and get a board upside down without disaster with a perfect fit front and back.

[John TenEyck]

Zillions of uses for digital readout.
Number 1 for me is getting in the exact center, +/- .002. That way I can mess up, and get a board upside down without disaster with a perfect fit front and back.

You can center the bit with a couple of test pieces in a minute or two. If you use loose tenons, just put an "X" or something similar on the common side of all the parts and put that mark down on the mortiser table. It doesn't matter if the bit is centered. For offset joints, add a spacer for whatever the offset is on those parts.

Too each his own. Simple works for me.

John

[Mike Hollingsworth]

You can center the bit with a couple of test pieces in a minute or two. If you use loose tenons, just put an "X" or something similar on the common side of all the parts and put that mark down on the mortiser table. It doesn't matter if the bit is centered. For offset joints, add a spacer for whatever the offset is on those parts.

Too each his own. Simple works for me.

John

try moving something .005.
Up
then down
then back up again
then down...

DRO $50 from Grizzly

[John TenEyck]

try moving something .005.
Up
then down
then back up again
then down...

DRO $50 from Grizzly

Normally, I use loose tenons so the mortise doesn't need to be centered. But when I do need to center the mortise it has not been hard to do. I guess the center, make a test cut in a piece of scrap, then flip it over and cut another that overlaps the first. Adjust by half the difference and repeat. Never takes more than 3 tries. My mortiser raises/lowers by 1/16" per turn, so adjusting even a few thousandths is easy. $50 isn't a lot of money, but I see no benefit for me.

John

[richard poitras]

Mike I love it. That’s a great idea. Yes there are always different ways to achieve results but the easier the better in my book. Thanks for showing.

Richard

[Izzy Charo]

Agree--mounting a DRO on the MR is a great idea! I bought the one from Grizzly, but the mounting bracket for the sensor appears to have threaded holes on the back, and not on the side (as it appears to in Mike's nice post)… If anyone can share details on how they mounted this (on the Z (vertical) axis) it would be most appreciated! I'm sure I can fabricate something, but always easier if someone else has already solved the problem…
Thanks!
Izzy Charo

[Matt Lackey]

What model DRO did you use for your MR?

[Carl Beckett]

I have a wirth and a woodrat. Agree that the DRO is a useful addition. But templates can be easier and quicker for repeat work.

I have been printing templates with a 3D printer. You can get any size/shape you want that way...even curves. And can tweak in whatever adjustments you want. I believe the pantorouter may taper the template guide surface to allow fine adjustment by moving the stylus path. I have not tried that, seems twitchy to me - a layer of painters tape usually does the trick.