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Thread: Cutting miters (baseboard) outside range (angle and depth) of saw?

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  1. #1
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    Cutting miters (baseboard) outside range (angle and depth) of saw?

    So... I've had a Makita 10" SCMS for a number of years, and generally speaking, it's done pretty well. Not the newest toy in town, but it gets the job done - usually. Til now.

    Doing some home remodeling, and one of the things I'm getting to learn about is doing baseboard trim. For various reasons, we decided to go with 5-1/4" tall trim. Tall enough that the 10" SCMS can't cut all the way thru with the trim standing up. For the first couple rooms, not a problem. I laid the boards flat, and made my cuts - either flat for butting up against the wall, or 45 degree for coping.

    Now... I may have run into a wall... or a corner... something I'm not real sure how to work around. The first rooms had all inside corners. This room (and most of the remaining rooms) have a number of outside corners. No problem, I thought. I'll just lay the board flat and tilt the blade over. Except... the corner(s) are not square (of course). The saw only tilts a maximum of 45 degrees, and I need something a few degrees more. With the head upright, the table will pivot far enough to cut the angle I need... but it can't cut all the way thru the board.

    The first board I decided to cut it standing up, and then try cutting it the rest of the way with a hand saw (cheap Marples pull saw - very sharp). Didn't work quite as well as I hoped, and there was a good bit of touch-up with a rasp/file on the backside, but it *did* get the job done. Not looking forward to cutting very many more like that, though.

    I thought about maybe using a stop of some sort so I could cut halfways thru one way, then flip the board over and cut the other half... not sure if that's a good idea or borrowing trouble. Likewise, I'm trying to picture if there is someway to work the complimentary angle to the one I need so I could cut the board laying down flat, but I'm not seeing it (then again, it is about bedtime...)

    The easy answer would be get a fancy new 12" SCMS... but thats not really in the budget at the moment. I'm sure I can't be the first person to tackle this problem... there has to be some work-arounds or solutions out there, right?
    Last edited by Monte Milanuk; 11-22-2016 at 1:34 AM.

  2. #2
    Adjust the stop for the bevel cut. You should be able to go a few degrees past 45°

  3. #3
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    If adjusting the angle stop isn't enough, put a packer under the end of the piece of skirting next to the saw blade to increase the angle. This way you can cut on the flat. Cut you piece of skirting to approximate length first so you only have a short off cut to drop out of the way. Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

  4. #4
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    The easy answer would be get a fancy new 12" SCMS
    The easy answer would be to - make a manual miter box - out of scrap and use a handsaw to make the cuts.....
    (fixed it for ya)
    & yes,,,been there quite a few times myself.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  5. #5
    A block plane does the trick.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    A block plane does the trick.
    I have found that for trim work having a sharp block plane is usually the best/quickest answer. Trying to set a miter saw for every slight variance of the angles can be very frustrating.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frank Drackman View Post
    I have found that for trim work having a sharp block plane is usually the best/quickest answer. Trying to set a miter saw for every slight variance of the angles can be very frustrating.
    How well does a block plane work on fiberboard?

  8. #8
    Works well with a sharp blade. Always stroke from top to bottom. A little chamfer at bottom prevents tear out.

    You can also use a file.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich Engelhardt View Post
    The easy answer would be to - make a manual miter box - out of scrap and use a handsaw to make the cuts.....
    (fixed it for ya)
    & yes,,,been there quite a few times myself.
    Make a manual miter box for every *different* angle that I encounter... how exactly is that the 'easy' answer? FWIW at this point I don't necessarily trust my handsawing tools or techniques quite that far.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    If adjusting the angle stop isn't enough, put a packer under the end of the piece of skirting next to the saw blade to increase the angle. This way you can cut on the flat. Cut you piece of skirting to approximate length first so you only have a short off cut to drop out of the way. Cheers

    This is what I do quite often for various reasons on my "fancy 12" SCMS"
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wayne Lomman View Post
    If adjusting the angle stop isn't enough, put a packer under the end of the piece of skirting next to the saw blade to increase the angle. This way you can cut on the flat. Cut you piece of skirting to approximate length first so you only have a short off cut to drop out of the way. Cheers
    That was actually my first inclination... I had discarded it because I wasn't sure how precise/controllable it would be. If I can sneak up on the cut, sure. There are a few places where I need an outside corner on each end of the board, probably different angles knowing my luck... didn't seem like there would be much room for trial & error in the form of sneaking up on the cut. I'll take a closer look, though.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post
    You can also use a belt sander.
    Fixed it for you.

  13. #13
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    Hey guys,

    The way my trim carpenter did it when I was building houses and the way I have done it since then is as follows.
    Cut a 45 degree bevel on the base and then cope the end to the shape defined by the bevel with a coping saw. The coped shape fits against the flat base it joins and looks exactly like it was beveled. If there is a bit of variance a utility knife will easily correct it. Try it, you might like it.

    This works with ceiling mold as well.

    My bad! You ere talking about outside miters and my mind went to inside miters. Sorry
    Last edited by lowell holmes; 11-22-2016 at 4:26 PM.

  14. #14
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    Make a manual miter box for every *different* angle that I encounter... how exactly is that the 'easy' answer?
    Exactly how many outside corners are you talking about? Have you put a protractor on all of them to see just how many cuts you're going to need to make?
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  15. #15
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    By my count, at least 18 outside corners. Some are very small - the end of a wall partition - but others are longer, where a cubby or nook is inset.

    Haven't found a square corner yet.

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