Need more help with metal work, etc.

[Royce Meritt]

Sorry to bother you all again but this one is kicking my butt! Sorry for the length of this post but I am absolutly stumped.

A few days ago I asked where to find the rubberized coating stuff. Got great advice, as usual. So, from McMaster-Carr I ordered a gallon of PC-5 liquid neoprene. According to their web site it is their most durable, abrasion resistant coating. So far I'm thinking "Great, this stuff will really work for me."

When applying said product to the marching percussion rack I welded up it was a pain in the behind. The product is so thick and gooey it was extremely difficult to brush on a nice even coat so I got very uneven coating. I ended up with all sorts of runs, drips, sags, etc.

Today, while trying to deal with the runs and drips I discovered an even worse problem. The product did not stick to the metal. It EASILY scratches and peels off the surface. Doesn't appear to me to be even slightly durable and abrasion resistant.

Now I have 2 problems to deal with.

#1- I need to remove this stuff from the percussion rack. Any suggestions other than several hours of work with a scraper, wire brush, sand paper and/or angle grinder? By the way, I had not originally intended to finish the ENTIRE rack with this stuff but though since I had a gallon I just as well use it. Plus having everything finished with the neoprene might be nice in case the rack got banged into a wall or doorway or something. So removal is going to be a pain but something I'm just going to have to do.

#2- If and when I get this removed I am back to square one with trying to come up with a way to finish this rack. The finish needs to be durable and provide some degree of "padding" of the steel so as to not damage the drums as they are placed on and removed from the rack.

I've racked my feeble brain as much as possible trying to come up with a solution such as rubber tubing over the steel tubing, (would work but VERY expensive) foam pipe insulation, (cheap but not nearly durable enough), trying again with a different variety of rubber coating, etc., etc., etc.

I have included a couple of picture to help you understand what I'm talking about. The rack is constructed as follows:

A-Frame ends: 2" Angle iron
Snare drum "cradles": 1" steel tubing
Bass Drum "cradle": 1 1/2 " steel tubing

I need to "pad" the contact points to protect the drums. I am open to any and all suggestions concerning both how best to remove the present finish and, once that is accomplished, how best to "re-finish." Thanks a bunch!

[lou sansone]

to get the snot off the rack what about trying a pressure washer?


as far as rubberizing it, what about a spray on bed liner material?

lou

[Don Baer]

when I was in the Navy, many many moons ago we used to use that stuff and the finish always had to be real rough. I would suggest sandblasting off the old and th re-coating the new over the sandblasted surface.

Like any other finish process, Try it on a small piece first.

PS if you don't have a sandblaster I'd contact a local commercial sandblaster , explain to them that it's for a school and see if they'll do it for free.

[Don Baer]

another solution I just came up with is to pad the metal with the foam insulation that they sell at the borg. It is slit so you can just wrap it arounf the frame and then use tape (black electric tap) to hold it on. It's cheap to buy. Here is a picture of some that I have on the pipes of my water heater.

[Jim Becker]

Spray on bed liner might be a better product for this as it should be a lot more durable. Like any finish, the surfaces will need to be absolutely clean and may need sanding to provide "grip" for the finish. Check with the manufacturer or have it done by a firm that does that kind of work.

[Andrew Ault]

Bicycle handlebar tape over pipe insulation?

[Randy Meijer]

First thing I would do is contact the manufacturer of the coating. They are going to know more about the product than anyone else. Hopefully, you can find out where you went wrong the first time in case you want to make a second attempt with the same material. And presumably, they will be able to advise you how to best remove the first coat.

I have seen a material at several hardware stores that is a liquid PVC, I think. You dip tool handles in it and after it has dried you have a strong but soft coating. It comes in several different colors. I can't remember what it is called....maybe someone else will.....and have only seen it in small containers.(maybe 16 oz.) I don't know if it can be had in larger quantities??

[Bobby Hicks]

Royce, Don't know how practical for this application but we use powder coat finishes here. It is very tough and durable, a tiny bit cushiony. As someone else posted contact local metal shops to see if they would donate to the school. As a last option Sears offers a new "home" powder coat system. Don't know if you would have access to a 400degree F oven big enough for your application.

[Mike Vermeil]

Why not just cover the contact surfaces with ordinary automotive heater hose split lengthwise? It's cheap, readily available, will protect the drums very well, shouldn't leave any discoloration on the drums if you use the orange or red type, and can be attached with hose clamps or adhesive.

[Gary Sutherland]

Royce...

Home Depots here carry the plastic coating in an aerosol spray can as well as the 'dipping' type.

I've never used the spray stuff, so can't say how well it works, but it's gotta be smoother than using a brush.

Gary

[Jim Dannels]

I`m all for do it yourself, but for this application I would be looking for a powdercoat applicator. Probably be cheaper, almost bulletproof and would not damage valuable instruments.

[Dan Stuewe]

I have no idea how they do it, but it sounds a bit like the powder coat a few folks have mentioned, but the new fangled playground equipment that is made with steel tubing has some sort of coating that has a softness to it (you can make an impression with a fingernail) yet holds up to sitting outside for years.

I also like the idea of bicycle handle wrap. I don't even think you'd need to use padding under it.

[Mark Duksta]

Royce,

What Jim said. Rhino bed liners are tough but still have a rubbery feel. It's used on more than just truck beds. Check out:

http://www.rhinolinings.com/RL/main/...pecialapps.jsp

Mark

[Alan Mikkelsen]

Ditto on the spray on bedliner.