Turning pens:finishing?

[Brian Sommers]

I'm a newbie at this. I've watched lots of vids on finishing. Why can't I just sand through with the wet micro mesh then ca and polish. Wouldn't that work? I see lots of people using ca first then micro mesh sanding then a polish. Seems odd to me to sand after ca. Advice?
Part of me just wants to use mineral oil and call it a day

[Bob Vavricka]

Brian,
I wouldn't wet sand the bare wood, if you do it will raise the grain and you will need to sand it lightly to remove any raised nibs after it dries--you would need to let it dry before finishing. The reason for sanding after putting on the CA and I have finished a lot of pens with CA is that it is never completely smooth at least for me after applying it. I usually sand it with the lathe off going with the grain using 320 or 300 grit and then buff with Tripoli and white diamond compounds. Since you have micro mesh, you can run through the grits after you level the finish with whatever grit you start with. Once you have the finish leveled, then the rest will go fast. Try one like you think it should work. Experimenting is a great way to learn and there is more than one way to do the CA finish. Mineral oil will work, but it you won't be able to get it as shiny and it won't hold up as long, but some people like a more satin look. Again, try one and see if you like it. Experiment with some inexpensive wood until you get the result you like. Have some fun.

[Ted Prinz]

Brian - yes, you can do just about anything you want. Just depends on what you are working with, what you want and how long you want it to last. If you're working with synthetic materials (acrylics, Tru-Stone, PR resin, etc) there is generally no need to add a CA finish. They polish to a high gloss, long-lasting finish.
If you're working with wood, you'll need to "protect" it with a finish. If you don't, it will stain, etc. Some folk like this and call it a patina. I call it dirt. There are other finishes (shellac, polyurethane, etc) but the gold standard is a properly applied CA. I've done a LOT of pens and I don't think there is anything better.
HOWEVER - a good CA finish isn't easy and the learning curve can be steep. Took me several years to get to a point where I was okay with mine and I'm still refining what I do. The CA (mine) doesn't go down super smooth. I generally do 7-8 coats of thin. Then I get a smooth finish sanding as lightly as I can. That's usually to 400. Dry. Then wet sanding to 2000 gives a nice finish but not high gloss. Polishing and buffing gets me to an extremely even, high gloss finish that lasts for years.
Keep at it and develop what you like. If there are 10 pen makers in a room, there will be 10 "best" ways to apply a CA finish.

[Bob Bouis]

Pen turning is easy. It's the finishing that's hard, but a good finish is how you distinguish your pens from the ones the guys at the local prison workshop make.

It's true everybody has their own method. Here's mine -- buy Craft Supplies USA's CA pen finish and follow the directions. Really!

Basically:

1. Sand the wood with the grain to 600 grit (or higher depending on the type).
2. Apply oil if desired, allow to dry.
3. Run the lathe at 400 RPM. Apply three drops of glue to each side of the pen and smooth them with one of the plastic bags the pen parts come in over your finger.
4. Mist very lightly with accelerator. Allow to dry.
5. Repeat a total of five times.
6. Lightly sand with the grain with 320 grit paper.
7. Apply one more coat of CA glue.
8. Sand to 600 grit. Sand until all the "shiny" (i.e.) low spots are scuffed, at which point the finish is level. The trick is not to sand through the CA finish.
9. Remove the pen parts and re-square them on the barrel trimmer.
10. Sand with 1000 grit.
11. Remove the mandrel from the lathe (with the pen still on it) and buff with white diamond paste. Start across the grain, then finish with the grain.
12. Wax if desired.
13. Assemble the pen and enjoy.