Dado set question

[Chuck Pickering]

I'm new to fine(er) wood working. I have an old Craftsman 10" table saw. Looking to get a dado set. What should I look out for? Adjustable vs. stack type.
I want to build wall shelf units and work bench cabinets.

Chuck

[Grant Wilkinson]

I'll jump in first and suggest an 8" stacked set. Freud makes a reasonable one.

[Mike Ontko]

Hi Chuck,

For the applications that you've identified (nothing too exacting), a wobble type dado head would work just fine. And you might even be able to find an inexpensive used Craftsman model on CL or eBay. For cleaner and more accurate dadoes and grooves, you'll want to consider a good stacked dado set. I started with a Craftsman wobble type setup but now have an Oshlun 8" stacked set. I might still have that wobbler, and would be happy to make arrangements for sending it out if you'd cover the postage and handling.


Mike

[Chuck Pickering]

Would love to have the wobbler set. Does it have instructions? Let me know how much it would cost to send to Tennessee.
I'm watching e-bay and CL.

Chuck

[Chuck Pickering]

Oh, another question. I have seen an 8" set recommended for a 10" saw. Is that just the common size, or are there other reasons? Why not a 10" set?

Chuck

[David Eisenhauer]

Stacked sets typically come in either 6" or 8", with (as I know it) the 8" being the most commonly used. You don't need 10" as you are not going to use it to cut all the way through your material. Like many folks, I started with a wobble for more "construction" type projects, then moved to an 8" stack for more precise "furniture" cuts. Over the years, both Freud and Forrest have scored well on comparative reviews, however I am sure there are other brands equally as effective. The decent stack dado sets will come with some plastic shims for use in fine tuning your desired cut with. If you can work something out with Mike, good for both of you so you can dip your toes into the pond.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Chuck, dadoes and groves are normally shallow, say 1/4" to 1/2" deep, you don't need much depth of cut.

The other issue is that a small saw arbour (5/8") and small bearings, housings etc would be overloaded with a 10" set.

I happen to run a 6" set in a 12" saw with a 30mm arbour.............Rod.

P.S. I second the choice of a good stacked set, I have one from FS Tools.

[Cary Falk]

I have the Delta 36-7670 and think it is a great set for around the $100 mark. The Dewalt DW7670 is the same set. The chippers are 4 tooth instead of the 2 tooth like some others in that price range.

[John Vernier]

I have used a 10" dado stack for special purpose joinery in a commercial shop. It's much heavier than an 8" set, and even with a 5hp saw it takes a noticeably longer time to spin up to speed. Given the extra cost, and the strain it puts on the saw, I wouldn't consider a 10" set until I had a specific need for it - and I wouldn't consider running it on a light-duty saw.

[Myk Rian]

A 6" stack is all you need. The reason being you don't usually make dados deep enough to need an 8", and the larger diameter puts more load on the saw/motor.

[Chuck Pickering]

Thanks for all the responses. Mike, I would like to accept your generous offer. PM me what it will cost to send the 'wobbler', and I'll PM you my address. Thank you!

Chuck

[Ray Newman]

As an aside: most stacked sets will not cut flat right out of the box. The different diameters of the cutters -- outside blades -- and the inner chippers leave an uneven cut. A good sharpening service will easily re-grind and sharpen the cutters and chippers to the same diameter to cut flat. When a dado set needs sharpening, have all the pieces done so as keep the diameters the same.

Or, use a router plane or dado clean out bit with bearing in the router to flatten the work.

Work shop rumor is that the better carbide dado sets cut a flat bottom. On some carbide set, the outside chippers will cut "bat ears" into the work as the outside cutters beveled/slightly protruding teeth reduce /eliminate tear out.

By design, wobble dado blades leave a slightly curved bottom --or at least the old Craftsman that I had did. No idea if a wobble dado can be re-ground to cut flat. Have heard it can not be done.

Once had a 1.5 horse power (on a 220 v. dedicated circuit) Delta contractor's saw that worked well with a 6" dado set, but would bog down with an 8'' set. Dado sets are heavy and require more horse power for deep/wide dadoes. Depending upon the width and depth of the cut and wood, it might not be possible to cut a deep dado in one pass. Also feather boards and similar hold downs will help provide a better cut.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks for all the responses. Mike, I would like to accept your generous offer. PM me what it will cost to send the 'wobbler', and I'll PM you my address. Thank you!

Chuck

I just love it when stuff like this happens.

[Jim Dwight]

I have a wobble that will cut a flat bottom dado but only at one width, I think it's 3/4. I rarely use it because it is so difficult to set. I should probably set it for the 1/32 small 3/4 plywood and just leave it there. But instead I do not use it. I use a Freud "Pro" 6 inch. It is their least expensive set and cuts flat bottom dados. It is also easier for me to set to the desired width. But I often use a router for a shallow dado, my favorite type. I cut them only 1/8 or even less, mainly to locate pieces during assembly. I have a jig you clamp over the desired piece going into the dado and then use a flush trim bit in the router. Much quicker.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have a Freud 8" stackable, and it does great. I also have a very old Craftsman wobble that I only ever used in my dads old radial arm saw, though it never made very nice dados. You always have to clean them up.

Doc