Adhesive for replaceable top?

[Jaze Derr]

I would like to have a thin layer of hardboard covering the top of my workbench. What adhesive will allow it to be removed and replaced?

I don't want to screw it down, I'm avoiding any metal in my top.

[Sam Murdoch]

You could use contact cement - sand the existing top well and clean off all the dust. When you ever want to remove your thin top just peel up an end and methodically spray lacquer thinner between the layers. It will all come off easily.

Other methods such as hot melt glue or PL adhesives (my 2 ¢) have issues - mostly that you would not be able to keep the two layers nice and flat - bumpy because of the beads of caulk.

One other option might be some 3" wide double stick carpet tape.

[Bill McNiel]

Jaze,
I have had a masonite hardboard top as the top surface on my workbench for 30 plus years. It is attached with 4 rows of 2" double sided carpet tape. I replace it every 3-5 years depending on wear. Works great but there is always some scraping of residual adhesive.
Hope this helps - Bill

[Mike Cozad]

I also didn't want metal in my benchtop so I used nylon 1/4-20 machine screws set in a countersink in the hardboard. I used t-nuts on the underside of the bench to make it easy to change.

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

You could use contact cement - sand the existing top well and clean off all the dust. When you ever want to remove your thin top just peel up an end and methodically spray lacquer thinner between the layers. It will all come off easily.

Other methods such as hot melt glue or PL adhesives (my 2 ¢) have issues - mostly that you would not be able to keep the two layers nice and flat - bumpy because of the beads of caulk.

One other option might be some 3" wide double stick carpet tape.

+1 on hot melt glue. That is what I used.

[Mason Truelove]

why not to use stick well?

[Pat Barry]

I would use a spray can type adhesive. Spray on a liberal coat and stick it down. Will be easy to peel back up some day

[Joe Kieve]

+1 on what Bill McNiel said. Carpet tape is what we used on the benches in the shop where I worked for may years. Easy to remove and replace every couple of years.

[Tim Bueler]

Whenever I use carpet tape in a non-permanent application I'll first put down a run of blue painters tape, then tape the carpet tape to that. You only need the blue tape on the non-sacrificial side of your project. At least in the short term the blue tape peels right off w/o leaving a residue. The downside, it does add some thickness between parts...sometimes an issue, sometimes not.

[Prashun Patel]

On my replaceable bench, I made the apron 1/4" taller than the surface. This captures the hardboard. No adhesive, no screws.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I use gravity. Its not just a good idea, its the law.

Doc

[mark mcfarlane]

On my replaceable bench, I made the apron 1/4" taller than the surface. This captures the hardboard. No adhesive, no screws.

You could do a similar thing with the masonite. Frame the masonite in 1*2 with a rabbet for the masonite. Glue the masonite to the rabbet, than drop the masonite assembly over the bench. If the frame is tight, it won't go anywhere.

[Luke Bergin]

On my replaceable bench, I made the apron 1/4" taller than the surface. This captures the hardboard. No adhesive, no screws.

Same thing I did but for 1/8" masonite

[Jaze Derr]

All good suggestions, thank you. Sometimes you can't see an answer that's staring you in the face.

[Frank Drackman]

On my replaceable bench, I made the apron 1/4" taller than the surface. This captures the hardboard. No adhesive, no screws.

This exactly what I do. I basically have a frame around the replaceable top that holds it in place. I wax the top so that glue doesn't stick.