Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 35

Thread: Do you practise hand planing?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    1,029
    I make lots of mistakes; more than most. I don't get things perfect. My time for woodworking is limited and my goal is to create something. I have no goal to become a hand tool woodworker. It's a means to an end. I choose to use hand tools because they are quiet and effective but what matters to me is the thing I'm making and the things I learn in the process. My practice is in the doing.

    Don't get me wrong. I sometimes practice briefly to "warm up" if I haven't done something in a while and I practice to learn new techniques. But once I know enough to get rolling, I focus on doing it.
    -- Dan Rode

    "We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,185
    Last two missed a point I made. I test drive each plane after it goes in for "upkeep" after a project is done, and before the next starts up. About like fixing up the Family car, and taking down it the road for a bit, to see how the fix did. Planes I haven't used for a project or two, will get a test drive to see how they are set up. IF they need a little tweaking, the test drive will show what needs to be done. then I can fix what needs to be done to have the plane ready to go.

    There was a Craftsman #3 that had been used for several projects, and had a lot of wear right in the middle of the bevel. Once a new bevel was made and sharpened up, it needed a test drive to see how it worked..
    Craftsman 3.jpg
    For those that say they don't have enough time in the shop to do the "upkeep" on their tools....sooner, or later, they WILL have to do a "maintenance day". I don't think that L-N nor L-V does "house-calls" to come in and tune up the toys.....

    Didn't Apprentices, after a day in the Master's shop, and after supper, take their edge tools out and sharpen them up for the next day's labour's?
    Last edited by steven c newman; 12-15-2016 at 9:12 AM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,185
    Well, back home from the hospital. Knee had some torn parts that needed fixed, junk cleaned out, and a small cyst cleaned up. Will be on the "DL" for a few days......Leg is all wrapped up in a big ace bandage/wrapper. Norco will be my friend for a while, as will a velcro'ed ice pack. For some reason....I am not allowed around any sharp objects......can't imagine why...

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Tokyo, Japan
    Posts
    1,550
    I have never practiced. In the beginning, some plane stokes were pretty bad, and the quality of some boards was likewise pretty bad, and the projects they went into were pretty bad too, but they were all working to the goal, and got better with repetition. The key is to pay attention, figure out the cause and effect of why things are not turning out as expected, then making corrections. After enough of that, muscle memory and eyeball memory take over.

    Stan

  5. #20
    I practice but it's not work for me. I happen to enjoy the challenge. I don't set out to practice, but I see a scrap with fresh saw marks and I just can't help myself.

    Then again I am a hobbyist and This is my golf.

  6. #21
    I practice a bit Lowell, for the reasons you state. But like Prashun:
    1. I'm only a hobbyist, so time in the shop isnt bread on my table. I dont have to hustle.
    2. Sometimes I go out and joint an edge just for the fun of it. Especially if it has sawmarks.

    I like Chris Fournier's idea and I'll try working the underside as a warmup next time.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    168
    There is another way advocated by The English Woodworker - Design to Learn. I think I pretty much follow that without knowing that I do I wouldn't start something that requires much higher standards that I have.

    Since I'm preparing stock by hand there is enough practice already. If planing is not giving right result then I just continue shaving. Once stock is prepared to acceptable degree then I'm also quite confident that I can make some project out of it! Otherwise, there is no stuff to ruin anyway

    Besides that, I learn how to deal with failures, how to change the project or assembly to work around it. Whether I made it too think or too thick or too short or not square.

    If you would take rough sawn wood instead if 2x4 then you might get also something useful out of your practice. This is useful practice, as opposite of useless practice. In this sense I practice a lot

  8. #23
    "Besides that, I learn how to deal with failures, how to change the project or assembly to work around it."

    That is an impotant point, Andrey. I am learning to do the same.
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,185
    I might start practizing again.....surgery well quite well for the left knee. They repaired a few torn items, and a good clean out. Taking things slow, since it means hopping down stairs to get TO the shop. Might have a few planes in need of a tune up, and then push them along some scrap to see how they are set up. Now, IF I can get this knee to start bending a little bit more, I might get something done.

    Might start tune ups on the Millers Falls planes, next. Seem to have the Baileys about done. Turns out that Fulton was a Sargent made 408, only markings on the plane was a "FULTON" stamped into the 1-3/4" wide iron.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Austin Texas
    Posts
    1,957
    Sounds like good news so far on the knee. Rehab, rehab, rehab will finish the work. Igor has been patiently waiting for you.
    David

  11. #26
    If you would take rough sawn wood instead if 2x4 then you might get also something useful out of your practice. This is useful practice, as opposite of useless practice. In this sense I practice a lot
    I'm pretty new to hand planes, and started my practice on spruce 2x4s (in Ontario all our stuff is spruce). What I can tell you from my limited experience, is that planing spruce 2x4s is a lot different than planing hardwood. Once I felt pretty confident on spruce 2x4s, I decided to smooth some cherry after it went through the power planer... well, I was in for a surprise. This thing they call tear out now reared its ugly head... grain direction and proper plane tuning actually really mattered now. I was leaving ugly plane track marks in my beautiful cherry board. It took me a good day to figure out all the issues I was having, and a lot more technique practice. I never had those issues on spruce... spruce was just making me think I was a god at hand planes :P

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,469
    Blog Entries
    1
    Howdy Ryan and Welcome to the Creek. I see you have been around awhile. Your profile doesn't list Ontario as your location. If you post again in another three years many of us old fogies may not remember your where abouts.

    Soft woods do seem to be a lot more forgiving than hardwoods. Mostly my work is in western pine or other firs.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Vienna, Austria
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Jones View Post
    I'm pretty new to hand planes, and started my practice on spruce 2x4s (in Ontario all our stuff is spruce). What I can tell you from my limited experience, is that planing spruce 2x4s is a lot different than planing hardwood. Once I felt pretty confident on spruce 2x4s, I decided to smooth some cherry after it went through the power planer... well, I was in for a surprise. This thing they call tear out now reared its ugly head... grain direction and proper plane tuning actually really mattered now. I was leaving ugly plane track marks in my beautiful cherry board. It took me a good day to figure out all the issues I was having, and a lot more technique practice. I never had those issues on spruce... spruce was just making me think I was a god at hand planes :P
    Right! I had similar experience. Maybe somewhere in Australia some time ago there was construction wood out of jarrah but in my area it is also softwood. The steamed beech was a hard surprise after it... it was a bitch, I should say Very demanding for technique, sharp blade and lubrication.

    But with the scrub plane with proper scrub blade it goes pretty good on hardwood. Might be a good starting point for beginning.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Jones View Post
    I'm pretty new to hand planes, and started my practice on spruce 2x4s (in Ontario all our stuff is spruce). What I can tell you from my limited experience, is that planing spruce 2x4s is a lot different than planing hardwood. Once I felt pretty confident on spruce 2x4s, I decided to smooth some cherry after it went through the power planer... well, I was in for a surprise. This thing they call tear out now reared its ugly head... grain direction and proper plane tuning actually really mattered now. I was leaving ugly plane track marks in my beautiful cherry board. It took me a good day to figure out all the issues I was having, and a lot more technique practice. I never had those issues on spruce... spruce was just making me think I was a god at hand planes :P
    Yeah, practicing on soft woods (note, not necessarily the same thing as "softwoods") is a waste of time. I use mostly yellow birch and euro beech since I can get them reasonably cheaply and they're decently representative of "mid-range" hardwoods. As a bonus some of the cheap birch is anything but straight-grained, with plenty of waviness and reversals to be had if you look for it.

    My son mostly practices planning on poplar, but that's so soft that it's almost as much of a "hero wood" as spruce even though it's technically a hardwood.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
    Posts
    27,469
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chase View Post
    My son mostly practices planning on poplar, but that's so soft that it's almost as much of a "hero wood" as spruce even though it's technically a hardwood.
    My soft hardwood is alder. There is a lot of it growing on my property. A local landscape supply also sells alder mill ends for firewood very cheaply. In the house I keep a small block plane for making shavings to help with restarting a fire when there are only embers. Otherwise my shop shavings are used. Back in the day, before newspapers accumulated in folks homes, it wouldn't surprise me to find folks made and kept shavings for starting their fires.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •