Need some advice on tapering legs

[Kevin Smira]

I wasn't paying attention and glued up my table legs to the aprons before I tapered them. This is a small end table for my daughter with the top being about 16" square. The legs are about 1 1/2" square and about 18" long (walnut). Wondering what the best method to now taper them is? Wasn't going for a major taper anyhow. Was looking about tapering an inch or so from the bottom to an inch square (on 2 sides). Hope my question/description makes sense. I've got limited tools to do so with now, but have a table saw, mitre saw, a jigsaw, hand plane, cheap harbor freight "double edge Japanese saw".

Thanks,
Kevin

[David J Blackburn]

If you can clamp the legs securely to the bench, it might be a little awkward, but you should be able to plane them down to a taper. Start with tiny strokes near the 1" end and then slowly expand them out to the baseline.

There's a bunch of videos out there on tapering with a hand plane - obviously more work than using a tapering jig on a router table or table saw, but it's doable. Mark it all out in pencil on the side, and plane to the line.

It'd be easier with a longer taper. Tapering over only 1" will be harder to do and (my opinion) would look a little odd. I'd definitely try to taper over a few inches if possible.

[Kevin Smira]

David...I'm certainly open to suggestions. I'm not sold on anything! Also have a router now that I think about it. Wonder if I could use that somehow?

[David J Blackburn]

I mean, again, if you could secure it well enough, you could place a piece of MDF or something on top as a template for the taper and then use a flush trim bit to taper it.

That seems somewhat dangerous to me - I'd be concerned about securing it well enough given that you'd need to have clearance under the leg for the bit.

I think I'd live with untapered legs before doing that, but it's possible, I suppose.

[Jerry Miner]

Seems to me you could still taper on the table saw---you'll just have the whole table to push through the saw instead of just a leg. (And you'll have to either reverse the jig for half the cuts or move the jig to the opposite side of the blade):

Taper [1] 12-13-16.pngTaper [2] 12-13-16.png

[Rick Fisher]

The taper would be on the inside ? I think a sharp plane is the safest method.. gonna take some time.

[Frederick Skelly]

If you can clamp the legs securely to the bench, it might be a little awkward, but you should be able to plane them down to a taper. Start with tiny strokes near the 1" end and then slowly expand them out to the baseline.

There's a bunch of videos out there on tapering with a hand plane - obviously more work than using a tapering jig on a router table or table saw, but it's doable. Mark it all out in pencil on the side, and plane to the line.

It'd be easier with a longer taper. Tapering over only 1" will be harder to do and (my opinion) would look a little odd. I'd definitely try to taper over a few inches if possible.

I agree with David and Rick here.

You should do this with a hand plane, if you feel comfortable using one. After you mark it on each side, use a rasp to cut out most of the waste. Then plane to the line. (Buy a rasp at your hardware or big box store - you dont have to use an Iwasaki or an Auriou.)

I wouldn't be comfortable doing this on a tablesaw myself. But YMMV, of course.

Honestly, I wouldnt taper only an inch. I think it will look odd. Instead, why don't you consider using your hand plane to cut about a 1/8" campher on the two outside edges of each leg. Then call it good enough. (I have a similar table next to my favorite chair and it looks solid and simple.)

Good luck!
Fred

[Sam Murdoch]

When this stuff happens to me I say I was visited by the Mystic Design Police. The universe is telling me that my intentions aren't the best - time for a rethink . Yes, we all are visited by the MDP.

Therefore quoting Fred Skelly above "Honestly, I wouldnt taper only an inch. I think it will look odd. Instead, why don't you consider using your hand plane to cut about a 1/8" campher on the two outside edges of each leg. Then call it good enough. (I have a similar table next to my favorite chair and it looks solid and simple.)". I like this idea as the best option yet.

[Tom Ewell]

Can also rough the taper out with a handsaw, (stay outside the layout lines) then finish with a plane and or sanding block.

No belt sander available? Another useful tool for post assembly modifications (with practice)

Or..... as many have suggested rethink the design some and decorate the legs in another fashion. Chamfers, beads, bevels, round overs, coves.......

[glenn bradley]

A taper jig could come in handy as a solution for this and in the future. Should be easy to taper the outside only if that's an option.

Taper Jig (15).jpg

[Prashun Patel]

I wouldn't use a handplane. It will be awkward planing towards the foot, and planing uphill could cause tearout.

Jerry's jig is the way I would go.

You could also build a jig for your mitersaw:

http://www.garymkatz.com/Publication...cuteAngles.pdf

But this would require a little better support of the table, and could be awkward to pull the handle when you flip the jig.

[Phil Mueller]

I think I would mark the taper on both sides and cut out the waste with the japanese saw...then smooth with files/sandpaper. Those fine teeth japanese saws will take a while, but should leave a pretty smooth cut. If you find you're starting to get off line while sawing, cut down to remove what you've sawn so far, and start again outside the line. It's very difficult to "guide" those saws back to the line, so take your time starting the cut to be sure you're aligned on both sides and the angle of cut is equal to the taper line. Sounds much harder than it is.

[Prashun Patel]

In fact, Phil, the cheap double pull saws have a rip side that will make cutting the taper fast. However, they are notoriously bad at cutting square.

[Phil Mueller]

Thank you Prashun, I stand corrected. I only have experience with a Japanese back saw desinged for crosscut...need to look into the two sided ones. In fact, you probably just pushed me over the edge to spend a few $.

[Sam Murdoch]

... but if you insist on cutting tapers - IMHO - yes Jerry's jig will work but your table is small and awkward to approach the table saw and I THINK that the element of risk is too high. One false move and you have ruined your project.

I would propose as alternatives -

1) if you have a circular saw jig up and use that. Much safer.

2) Time to invest in a decent back saw/tenon saw. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qedoe9LCu2I The level of work you are doing warrants owning one. Clamp a guide to your work and proceed carefully with a sharp saw that is not as inclined to wander as the (especially cheap & badly sharpened) Japanese saws. Buy a nice Silky and your potential for success rises considerably.

3) See my post above.

Good luck and welcome to the process. We have all been there .