A newer (8 years old) 5hp PM 66 is available "near" me, (down in Northern AZ/Southern Utah), for $950.
http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/42761965
A newer (8 years old) 5hp PM 66 is available "near" me, (down in Northern AZ/Southern Utah), for $950.
http://www.ksl.com/classifieds/listing/42761965
Last edited by John Sanford; 01-08-2017 at 12:50 AM. Reason: more info...
It came to pass...
"Curiosity is the ultimate power tool." - Roy Underhill
The road IS the destination.
Sawstop has become a religion around here. It is truly bizarre
SawStop is not a religion but just a choice. The ICS is a very solid machine and IMHO as solid as any currently made table saw.
If you want a Sawstop just buy one. If you do not want one, then buy something else. If you want to rebuild old iron..OK. The bottom line is to get something that cuts accurately and for each person cuts safely.
I think these threads about Sawstop and the eternal, infernal debate just bring up the same old things. It is like Rebublicans and Democrats, Chevy and Ford, old versus new plane materials. You are not going to change anyone's mind...not worth arguing about.
I often hold back even entering a SS discussion for just this reason. The mere mention of the brand guarantees an additional dozen posts much like Festool.
I do kick-in though when misinformation is stated about any tool I am aware of. All of us should do that ;-) I have been corrected now and again and I appreciate it.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Except it's not. Every time a thread pops up about table saws, you have the SawStop apologists out in force. Even if someone says they cannot afford an expensive table saw, the SawStop apologists push them to spend more money than they want to on their Holy Tool. People might think it's a great tool and that's fine, but when it's the only one they're pushing, especially when it is inappropriate to push it, that's a different matter.
I think you can't go wrong with any of the above choices. First and Last, really? Only if you are old. Personally I bought a used Unisaw because of the deal I found on craigslist. I would have been happy with any of them. But I may be the exception because I was not going to buy new.
My saw blade is .001 out and my fence is .005 out the full length of the miter slot. The Unisaw fence was bowed but I fixed it with a piece of Baltic birch. I am quite happy with my table saw. I am only a hobbyist but it works for me.
Any thoughts on the Shop Fox or the Steelex saws?
AFAIK Shop Fox, Grizzly, and Steelex are all owned by Shiraz Balolia (Woodstock Intl). I was unaware that they had any saws under the Steelex name, but in many cases Shop Fox and Grizzly saws are very similar. The W1819 is comparable to the G0690, W1824 ~ G0715P. SF offers dealer support and longer warranty, whereas Grizzly is a direct importer. SF usually costs more, but not always. I've had a W1877 (same as the G1023SL) since 2008, and it's been a great saw.
Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....
I may buy a ss, I was looking the 3 hp pro at woodcraft, the wheels turn like butter. But will probably disable the blade thing until my grandson starts using it. Sounds like every-time you put a different kind of stock in it you have to worry about it firing off. I'll eventually teach my gs the best prevention to getting hurt is to be careful and pay attention...
ken
You can't disable the brake long term, you have to disable it each time you turn the saw on, if you plan to do that a SS isn't for you, you will pour gas on it and light it on fire pretty quickly. The issues of false triggers seems magnified by the internet most of the people I know who have had them for 5-10 years haven't fired the brake at all, some have once and a couple 2 times. Trips due to wood are a small part of the total number, the vast majority of them seem to be as a result of touching metal like the edge of a Incra miter gauge.
Of all the laws Brandolini's may be the most universally true.
Deep thought for the day:
Your bandsaw weighs more when you leave the spring compressed instead of relieving the tension.
I was interested when reading George's mention of his Clausing table saw. I also bought my Clausing new and have been using it for 56 years without incident. I agree the 3/4'' arbor can, at times, be a problem but drilling the arbor out or using a 1'' arbor blade with a 1'' to 3/4'' bushing also works.
The above having been said, I have considered getting a Sawstop saw mainly because I'm getting a little older, 73 yo, and I believe it would be easier to resell. Still contemplating though.
Thanks Scott,
Chevy, Ford, Dodge etc. Just moved from Maine to Minnesota and sold my Powermatic gear rather than move it. PM66, PJ884, etc. Setting up a new shop here in MN. Advanced hobby shop if you will. Bought all the Powermatic stuff off Craigslist back in ME. Haven't found the same deals here so thinking new stuff. Seems I can go Grizzly/Shop Fox/Steelex for not much more money than used Powermatic/Delta. The Grizzly 1023RLWX looks like the best bang for the buck that fits my needs. Shorts rails (32 inch) with Router table and 5 hp. for $1600 after shipping. I'll have to put a roller base under it, but that trivial.
Mike, in Minnesota Craigslist is usually decent.
Hoff auctions has a cabinetshop on there every few months. Auction masters, and k-bid are two others that pop up.
Tried And True tools in Fridley has a Powermatic model 66 tablesaw for sale, but I think they're asking too much.
I don't know if non-customers can access it, but HDL has a classified section in their flyer every month, sometimes there's decent stuff in there too.
If you're thinking new, you can get Cantek from, Advantage Machinery. Talk to Mike Shemon. I've got a salesman at Acme Tools too that would take good care of you who also sells Cantek
I have bought from Hoff before.
Still looking for my 1970's T71.