anti seize on light bulbs

[Dave Macy]

My dad is in the hospital so I don't want to bother him with this. The light bulbs in my ceiling fan in my room are hard to replace when they burn out. I found some Loctite c5-a copper anti-seize (the solid kind that's in a screw out stick) in the garage. Would it be ok to put a light coating on the threads before I put the new bulbs in? Seems crazy that a light bulb is hard to replace. But when they get stuck it's tough because my hand is too big to get a good grip on it inside the actual light thing that surrounds it. Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

My dad is in the hospital so I don't want to bother him with this. The light bulbs in my ceiling fan in my room are hard to replace when they burn out. I found some Loctite c5-a copper anti-seize (the solid kind that's in a screw out stick) in the garage. Would it be ok to put a light coating on the threads before I put the new bulbs in? Seems crazy that a light bulb is hard to replace. But when they get stuck it's tough because my hand is too big to get a good grip on it inside the actual light thing that surrounds it. Thanks

I wouldn't. Get some spray silicone and spray some on the light bulb base before you screw it in when replacing them. Make sure you are using the proper wattage bulbs. Most ceiling fans with multiple bulbs are limited to 40 watt bulbs.

[John K Jordan]

My dad is in the hospital so I don't want to bother him with this. The light bulbs in my ceiling fan in my room are hard to replace when they burn out. I found some Loctite c5-a copper anti-seize (the solid kind that's in a screw out stick) in the garage. Would it be ok to put a light coating on the threads before I put the new bulbs in? Seems crazy that a light bulb is hard to replace. But when they get stuck it's tough because my hand is too big to get a good grip on it inside the actual light thing that surrounds it. Thanks

I understand some anti-seize compounds contain metal particles. From an engineering web site I found this just now: "Most anti-sticking compounds consist of a solid lubricant dispersed in a grease or binder. The anti-seizing material provides an insulating barrier or layer between metal components and allows for the easy dismantling of fasteners and parts. Material composition largely dictates thermal performance. Material composition largely dictates thermal performance. Aluminum, copper, nickel, molybdenum disulfide, and graphite powders are common slip agents. Anti-seize compounds that contain metallic particulates and graphite powders are also used."

I don't know if this would cause them to be conductive enough to short out the 110v but if so, it could be a problem on an electrical socket if some got in the wrong place.

What I use is dielectric grease, available at any auto parts store or in a larger container/applicator at an electrical supply store. And probably at WalMart, I didn't check. In the house I use it on light bub sockets/bases and on contact points in my breaker boxes. In electronic/electrical devices I use it on contacts for connectors and inside switches I repair. For automobile, tractor, mower, 4-wheelers, and trailers I use it everywhere two electrical things make contact - bulbs, connectors, etc. This stuff has saved me a lot of grief.

JKJ

[Robert LaPlaca]

I agree with JKJ, I use conductive grease on exterior low voltage lighting, we have some low voltage lights that have bayonet style bulbs halogen that love to get stuck in the socket. Applying a light coating of conductive grease to the base of the bulb has made the stuck bulbs a thing of the past.

[Rich Riddle]

No, you should not use it.

[John Lanciani]

Silicone grease is the correct thing to use; https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-2205.../dp/B000AL8VD2

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

I have the same problem with my lights on my ceiling fans & I put a light coat of silicone dielectric grease on the thread of the new bulbs. I have been doing that for years and no problems.

[Dave Macy]

Thanks. Will get some dielectric grease.

[Bob Grier]

Use silicone paste (grease). Get from electrical supply store or ship (boat) chandlery. Also, can be found in auto stores. I wouldn't use the spray silicone which works great for plastic zippers.

[Jim Koepke]

There is actually a product made specifically for this:

bulb Grease.jpg

Home Depot, Walmart, all the usual suspects carry this or another brand.

jtk

[Terry Wawro]

I learned this trick from an old electrician years ago and it works. Believe it or not, you can rub the back of your ear or the side of your nose then rub the metal base of the bulb. This light coating of oil from you skin will make the bulb very easy to screw in and prevent it from seizing for many years.

[Yonak Hawkins]

This shouldn't be so challenging. I would try something you, likely, already have around the house. Try just a dab of Vaseline. See if that works. If it doesn't, nothing lost .. try something else, but I bet it'll work fine.

[Kev Williams]

Vaseline will work fine, smear a little on, wipe off the excess.

[Stephen Tashiro]

What I use is dielectric grease, available at any auto parts store or in a larger container/applicator at an electrical supply store.

I agree with JKJ, I use conductive grease on exterior low voltage lighting,

However, the meaning of "dielectric" is "insulator".

I hesitate to put dielectric grease on every type of electrical connection. Is dielectric grease suppose to be used only on connections where the metal parts of the connection press together tight enough to squeeze out the insulating grease from between them?

At auto parts stores,there is also "bulb grease" that is used on head lights and tail lights. Is "bulb grease" also a dielectric?

[John K Jordan]

However, the meaning of "dielectric" is "insulator".
I hesitate to put dielectric grease on every type of electrical connection. Is dielectric grease suppose to be used only on connections where the metal parts of the connection press together tight enough to squeeze out the insulating grease from between them?
At auto parts stores,there is also "bulb grease" that is used on head lights and tail lights. Is "bulb grease" also a dielectric?

I understand the bulb grease is the same as dielectric grease, I'm guessing it's a renaming to market to consumers. I think they are both thick silicone grease.

All good connectors will have metal parts that fit together tight enough to displace the insulating grease at the contact points. If the metal parts of a connector do not make tight contact that needs to be fixed first.

What the dielectric grease does is coat the metal parts and keep corrosion-causing moisture and oxygen away from the metal. This will keep the connection working AND let you actually get that one under the hood apart again in a decade. Preventing corrosion is especially important on older plated connectors where some of the protective plating might have worn off, or where you cleaned off corrosion with an abrasive. It also lubricates and minimizes wear where connections are made and broken often, such as for trailer lights and brakes. It also discourages tiny mud daubing insects from building nests and clogging up the little holes of the connectors on the trailer. It also protects any rubber parts of the connector from degrading over time. It helps lubricate and seal rubber boots on electrical connectors such as spark plugs. Great for batteries such as AAs used in outdoor applications (I have them in four motion detectors near and around my gate.) Have some of those cheap solar-powered yard/path lights? Dielectric grease on the batteries, battery holders, crimps, and connections will give you more use before you throw them all in the trash.

Using this stuff can even prevent disasters where currents are high. For example, an old commercial heat pump the original owner put in this house had large circuit breakers in an outside box that, due to humidity and time, had a corroded connector. Corrosion causes increased resistance, increased resistance causes heat, heat increases resistance.... When the heat pump quit working I found one corroded connector had burned in two, arced inside the breaker, disintegrated the plastic, and caused the breaker to fall apart. Pieces were loose in the box. New breaker, new box, dielectric grease, still good 13 years later.

Some people have different opinions but mine is to use it.

I don't think it was mentioned is you only need a light coating in a light socket. I don't think too much is better. I put a little on my finger and smear it around. I turn off the power first.

JKJ