Dead car any mechanics

[Bert Kemp]

Can't take it anywhere if it doesn't start. Had a brand new battery about 6 months ago alt and bat checked out fine

Why not take the car to the auto parts store and have them test the battery and charging system?
Seems to me the voltage regulator may be bad.

[Jim Koepke]

This sounds like you have at least two problems to solve.

First is why does the battery go dead.

The second problem is more recent of the car not turning over.

It is difficult to troubleshoot your car from a keyboard a few thousand miles away. Just the same this is what I would do. For the battery drain I would use an amp meter in series with the battery to either the ground or the hot terminal. Most modern cars will have a very light flow, less than 100 ma, of current to run the clock and keep your radio station selections in memory. In the old days when there wasn't any of this we would just lift a battery cable and see if there was a spark when we touched it back to the battery terminal. If there was a spark, or in the case of a modern car excessive current flow, the fuses would be removed one by one to find which circuit was causing the drain.

For troubleshooting a starter, there are a few things to do before climbing under the car to do the dirty work of removing the starter motor. First would be to find the starter solenoid and see if it is easy to bridge the battery connection to the starter output. In many cases it is possible to do with a screwdriver or pliers. Make sure the car is in park or neutral before doing this as if the starter is good it will engage and crank the engine. If this works, the next step is to find where the key switch connects to the solenoid. If applying power to this cranks the engine then the problem is toward the key and the enabling circuit through the gear selector. If it doesn't work, then it is likely the solenoid.

If you have a decent meter, you can also check for voltage across the solenoids biggest connections. One comes from the battery, the other to the solenoid. With the key off it should read close to full voltage. With the key in the start position the voltage should drop to almost zero. Pitted contacts in the solenoid will cause a higher voltage reading.

This reminds me of a car I purchased second hand. It didn't occur to me that the car wouldn't start without the clutch pedal fully depressed until my son couldn't get the car to start. I was taught to always depress the clutch when starting a car. He learned to drive on an automatic shift.

Much more than this and I will have to charge you airfare and other expenses along with an hourly rate.

jtk

[Pat Barry]

Lights are one thing, they run about a few amps. Starting the car requires 500 amps. If you have bad connections there is no way that you can start the car. Just check the connections first. MUCH EASIER than anything else. If they are good then you can move on to the starter soldenoid

[Bill Orbine]

Lights are one thing, they run about a few amps. Starting the car requires 500 amps. If you have bad connections there is no way that you can start the car. Just check the connections first. MUCH EASIER than anything else. If they are good then you can move on to the starter soldenoid

This is the right initial diagnosis.... check the wiring and connections before anything else. If you know how to use a meter, you can read into the issues if you know to use the logics of the readings and placement of the probes. There is much more than to determine continuity and voltages when using the meter.

[Robert Delhommer Sr]

Sounds like your alternator is not charging properly if at all.

[Jim Andrew]

Should print off some of these posts! When I have a vehicle that will not start, first thing I do is clean the battery posts. Have had a car that had a poor ground, it would start, but the headlights were dim. Had to replace the starter on my Ranger pu a month ago, starter was shot. Got a replacement from NAPA. Should add, checked battery first, it appeared to be no good, but under warranty, so installed a new one. Started one time, drove to the neighbors, and it would not start again. THEN new starter.

[Greg Peterson]

The primary issue at hand is the starting system, not the charging system (alternator).
!. Open hood
2. Check battery connections for looseness, corrosion, poor connection, anything that would otherwise restrict or prevent full power delivery to the starter motor.
4. Check connection at starter. Remove cable and check cable for secure and solid integration with eyelet that mounts to power post on starter.
3. Remove starter and have it tested.

Dollars to donuts it is a bad starter.

Why is the battery draining? Almost certainly not the charging system (alternator). Most likely a ground issue.

[Bert Kemp]

I took the battery and had it tested ITs good and fully charged, the alt puts out 14.6 last time I checked it .I'm thinking you guys saying starter are closer to the problem. I'm not capable of checking it or taking it out. So guess I have to have someone come tow it to a shop. Thanks for all the replies. was hoping a simple cheap fix, so much for hope LOL

[Lee Schierer]

Have you cleaned the inside of the battery cable clamps? A layer of corrosion would prevent the battery from being charged and prevent sufficient start current to be drawn from the battery even if the battery has a full charge. Check the positive connection to the starter relay and the ground connection to the frame make sure they are clean and tight. Check the fusible link to make sure it is okay. If you have a volt meter, with the car battery connected, check the voltage at the contact on the starter solenoid on the battery side to ground. It should read over 12 volts. If in doubt replace the 13 year old battery cables with new ones.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Also might be the ignition switch. I agree to check the connections and clean the terminals first. Next run a jumper to the solenoid. If it doesn't start- bad solenoid/starter. If it starts then it's in the connection from starter to ignition: faulty wire, faulty switch, or faulty shift or brake lock-out switch.

[Jerome Stanek]

Had a similar problem and it was the cable from the battery to the starter solenoid. looked good but it was corroded inside

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Urgent note: make sure you have the key in the ignition before trying to jump to the solenoid. Many new cars- especially Ford- have a security feature that will shut down the logic module if you try to Hotwire it. (Guess how I know this!). I forgot to mention this in my above post.

[Bert Kemp]

Thanks all Terminals were I clean I never let them get dirty, not sure about the starter tho LOL , can't do anything until Tuesday now Busy Day tomorrow

[Bruce Wrenn]

Check the ground connection to the engine block. Lights are grounded through the body ground connection, so they would work in engine ground was bad. One starter test we do is to tap (knock hard) with a mallet on starter.

[Bert Kemp]

If I can find the starter I'll try that

Check the ground connection to the engine block. Lights are grounded through the body ground connection, so they would work in engine ground was bad. One starter test we do is to tap (knock hard) with a mallet on starter.