Buffaloed by Akeda dovetails

[Keith Pleas]

My first dovetails...went a bit overboard on an Akeda setup, new PC D-handle router, Pat Warner base...was thinking to build a knife holder for the kitchen.

And I'm off to a rocky start (see attached pics). I'm getting better at reducing that tearout / chipout, but the geometry is defeating me.

For the tails I rotated and flipped the board so the profiles are symmetrical - I suspect that was a mistake. My jig layout is not quite symmetrical. So when I did the tail piece, I'm obviously limited because the beveling on those pieces mean you can't rotate and flip - just rotate. I could make this work for the back side by flipping the back, but now I'm left with the second pin piece and there's no way it's going to work.

I THINK I have to whack one end of both tail boards and re-route with them flipped, and then build a 2nd tails piece that equals the first.

Am I on the right track?

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[Andy Giddings]

Never used an Akeda before (have the Leigh) but on the tearout, try taking a very (very) light climb cut first as this normally gets rid of mine (even in ply)

[Andrew Kertesz]

I'm curious where you got an Akeda jig. I thought they stopped production...

[Keith Pleas]

Never used an Akeda before (have the Leigh) but on the tearout, try taking a very (very) light climb cut first as this normally gets rid of mine (even in ply)

Hi Andy - thanks for that suggestion. That "very light pass" sure takes a long time when you're doing the pins (and there are 4 edges like on the box I'm making).

I imagine the geometry issue is the same for all dovetail jigs. And I'm thinking that you get a choice of whether the tails or the pins are symmetrical, but not both. Does that sound correct?

[Keith Pleas]

I'm curious where you got an Akeda jig. I thought they stopped production...

eBay a couple of months ago, and I also picked up some accessories from Akeda (they're out of the jig and fixtures but have many of the cutters).

[John Lanciani]

eBay a couple of months ago, and I also picked up some accessories from Akeda (they're out of the jig and fixtures but have many of the cutters).

Assuming you have the manual, what does it say regarding positioning of the boards? With the Leigh, you keep the same face out for both ends of the pins and tails; I have to assume that the Akeda is the same and by rotating the board when you flip ends you are causing your own problem.

As for the climb cut to reduce splintering, it literally takes two seconds. You are just making a quick skim cut to remove a minuscule layer of wood to eliminate the possibility of splintering.

[Keith Pleas]

Assuming you have the manual, what does it say regarding positioning of the boards? With the Leigh, you keep the same face out for both ends of the pins and tails; I have to assume that the Akeda is the same and by rotating the board when you flip ends you are causing your own problem.

Well, the Akeda manual doesn't show a box - they show a drawer with through dovetails on the back and half-blind on the front.

I just went back through the manual and didn't spot anything particular to this kind of construction. But you can see the geometry in the pictures - I can't see any way to make the pin pieces symmetrical about a vertical axis like you can with the tail pieces.

I thought of something else...it appears that I can brace against the front OR the back (where, correspondingly the jig pieces are installed). I THINK I can mirror the pin pieces on the opposite side and route that opposite piece.

But...in general...where do folks focus on the symmetrical sides of a through-dovetail box?

[Keith Pleas]

Well you can't put the pins on the opposite rail, so I came to the conclusion that I'd have to mirror the layout and produce new pin boards with that mirror.

Looking through the Akeda manual (PDF, searchable) they use "box" to talk about box / finger joints. They do show one box construction but it's with an angled face. But searching on "mirror" I found a discussion about "asymmetrical layouts" with the tip "You can do this by sliding the previously cut work piece straight to the opposite end of the jig for symmetrical lay-outs, or by turning it around for asymmetrical layouts to create a mirror image."

So there you go - a technique for producing the mirror images of the pin pieces.

[Keith Pleas]

Well I learned a lot today. I flopped the piece and moved the guides to match and the symmetrical pieces were easy.

I also dispensed with the 1/8" plywood I was using to sandwich the piece to help with the tearout. It was OK for the tails, but with the pins it changed the geometry! That's why my joints were so loose. I dispensed with that and they were very tight - so I used a piece of cardboard behind to create just enough extra space to make them closely fit. Akeda recommends a router bushing that's undersized by a few thousandths but if you don't have that (and they're out of stock) then try the cardboard.

And getting rid of the plywood - that made the quick edge cuts recommended above very easy - just brush it along (right to left) the side facing the operator. And the corollary, route through to the back and take a light pass from left to right. Once I got that figured out everything went well with no tearout.

Here's my revised box with the new pin boards - much better!

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