I use a small block plane that I made and it has a 50+ angled bed. The blade is a $10 Mujingfang I bought from Japan Woodworker. ( high carbon steel )
They take a really sharp good lasting edge. It has a sliding front mouth piece like Steve Knight's planes had/have.
No tear out.
Made from scrap cherry. After several years of use, I've tuned it only moderately and am very satisfied I've gotten my $10 worth...hoot!
Enjoy the shavings.
Is this one Brian?
http://www.toolsfromjapan.com/store/...roducts_id=770
In addition to high angle planes and/or chipbreakers, it is important to read the grain. Where small planes (such as the HNT Gordon Palm Smoothing plane) are helpful is that they can easily be reversed when the grain direction changes.
Regards from Perth
Derek
This is what I had in mind;
http://www2.odn.ne.jp/mandaraya/kaku...yuu-saika.html
Tehiba Masanori is the proprietor of that site.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Block plane.
Google translation of that page gave me a bit of a chuckle:
"16600 yen In stock
With the making of a popular plane "Ayaka", I made free-angle chamfering planes. Even if it is small, you can wear clippers in the arrow feathered with hammerheads.
Even if you take each side with a router or trimmer, the gloss will not rise so it will be scraped off with bean flat planes, but the narrow side is easy to grasp and can not be cleaned beautifully.
Also, as for the horse riding surface, if there is no gap in the size of the surface, gaps will be created, so this plane will demonstrate its power at such times.
In order not to reduce the number of units, it is advisable to scrape up to a finished surface in advance with a rough plan and finish it with this plane several more times in advance"
Sorta curious how big the furniture is if it has a horse riding surface. . .
Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.
Two words: Card scraper.
A finely tuned plane with a cap iron (what some call "chip breaker") would also work, but that takes some specific skills to set up and use.
What "small plane" did you use, and specifically what was its cutting angle? If it was a typical low-angle block (25 deg bevel + 12 deg bed = 37 deg total) then that's a recipe for tearout even when taking fine cuts. If you did use a low-angle plane of some sort then you might want to increase the secondary/micro-bevel such that the cutting angle is at least 45 deg and try again.
I find that bevel-down spokeshaves (45 deg cutting angle) work reasonably well for that, though they lack a cap-iron and so aren't quite as capable of mitigating tearout as a bench plane. With that said I've had good luck with an LV BD shave, with the blade shimmed (with thinner ones than LV provides) to tighten the mouth to a few mils.
Bevel-up shaves as typically configured (~25 deg bevel, minimal bed angle) are horribly susceptible to tearout IMO, and not really suited for the sort of job the OP describes.
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 01-14-2017 at 5:26 PM.
The shave I use is Lee Valley's Replica Cast Round Spoke Shave. I don't recall ever having tear out with it. But then I know how to use it. It also is kept razor sharp. Why would tear out
occur rounding edges? I don't recall ever doing that. I strive for translucent shavings whether using a spokeshave or plane
Last edited by lowell holmes; 01-14-2017 at 5:55 PM.
For the same reasons tear out always occurs. There's nothing magical about edge-rounding that makes it any more or less susceptible than any other cut (except of course that you're working a very small area of the wood and can therefore avoid reversals "across" the cut).
A card scraper can break the edge and create a chamfer of course, but, it's not going to provide a consistent chamfer along the edges of the piece like a tool designed to create chamfers. That's the idea for the Radiplane. A small block plane fitted with a guide to reference off the surface and create the chamfers would work as would a tricked up spokeshave.