I'm thinking of making myself a wooden jack plane. Show me any wooden jack planes you've made. I needs me some inspiration.
I'm thinking of making myself a wooden jack plane. Show me any wooden jack planes you've made. I needs me some inspiration.
This may be more of a smoothing plane than a jack plane, but I'll post it anyway. I made this one about 2008. Red birch with a lignum vitae sole.
Mike
Wood-Plane-3.jpgWood-Plane-1.jpgWood-Plane-4.jpg
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Here is mine.
Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.
Hi Tony, I'm also planning on making a wooden jack. Have you decided on whether to go with a laminated krenov style? Or with traditional with abutments?
The first plane I made. Pulled a piece of cherry out of the firewood stack. The iron is A1 tool steel. I had access to a tempering kiln in the shop at work. The heat treating process last almost a week.
Life's too short to use old sandpaper.
Applewood Jack. 15''. 2'' E A Berg Iron
DSCN1511.jpg
My understanding of a Jack plane is one used to remove as much waste as quickly as possible. It uses a moderately cambered blade, somewhere between 8" - 12" radius. One does not take fine or full width shavings, as with a smoother. Deep rather than wide is the way.
A typical metal jack is the Stanley #5. Generally, Jacks run about 15" long in either metal or wood.
The camber on my wooden jack (10") ...
Razee design to keep the power low ...
Regards from Perth
Derek
Two double iron jackplanes I made last winter, along the lines of the classic English planes.
foto (8).jpg
foto (7).JPG
One is 14" long with a 2" iron, the other is 16" with a 2 1/8" iron. Made in the traditional way from radial cut beech. The irons are vintage.
Last edited by Kees Heiden; 01-15-2017 at 3:57 PM.
Hi Kees
I am curious how you use a double iron in a jack plane, if the blade is cambered as I mentioned above?
The jack pictured above is one I built several years ago, before we began using double irons, and it continues to do duty. I also have a #605 set up as a jack, and here the chipbreaker is pulled back. In other words, it may as well be a single iron plane. So, unless the plane does double duty with a straight blade, why is it important to use a double iron specially in a jack plane?
Regards from Perth
Derek
Hi Kees; the following is another example of a double iron Jack Plane. The amount of camber would likely vary between a single and a double iron Jack Plane.
Stewie;
100 Smoothing plane, single iron
101 Jack plane, single iron
102 Fore [try] plane, single iron
103 Jointer plane, single iron
108 Smoothing plane, double iron
109 Jack plane, double iron
110 Fore [try] plane, double iron
111 Jointer plane, double iron
Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 01-15-2017 at 7:50 PM.
I know both will work but would rough fore/jack (which is what I'm thinking of making) be better off with a thick single?
A personal observation. . .Double or single iron, the only time I really feel a double iron is needed is if there are a lot of chip jams. Typically, I only have an issue with chips not ejecting on thin shavings, so my personal thought is that single irons are fine for any plane that can use one, so long as you don't run into jamming issues.
The few planes I have made have all had single irons, be they fine or rough work planes.
Just my thought.
Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.
Tony; that would depend on the type of grain your normally working with. If its straight grained timber, controlling depth of tear-out is not as big an issue.
I think it is a very interesting question why you see wooden jointers and jacks with double irons. The old timers did not do all that much without a good reason. All of my wooden bench planes (jointer, jack, coffin smoother) are double iron.
Do you think the double iron at least limits the tear out, even if not set closely enough to eliminate it altogether?