Joinery Question: How Would You Accomplish this Notch?

[Gene Davis]

Yes I did the gumby legs. Where did that term originate?

Look at this thread for info on one built at cocktail table height. woodtalkonline.com/topic/20401-krenov-coffee-table/?page=1

The sofa-size one I did has the cross pieces raised up with curved "elevator cuts" much like I show the long-side aprons in my newer 3D model. Thus the top is floating off the aprons and leg tops. My modified design shown here (attached) has the top sitting down flush on the frame of two aprons and two cross-bars.

The guy that did the one in walnut and zebrawood did a nice job shaping the legs, and he did the sliding dovetail detail to fix the tops so as not to cup or bow. I would do it too.

[John Crawford]

Where did that term originate?

I believe someone felt that this leg style looked like the legs of the animated character of the same name. I have heard some students of JK use the term, but I can't imagine that he used it himself. (I don't know personally....)

Thanks again for the advice!

3135069-8412017809-gumby.jpg

[Pat Barry]

Hi Everyone:

I'm working on a coffee-table build here. I'm planning to lift an element from a Krenov table that I like (see below): a split top table, which has stretchers rather than aprons on the ends. Krenov writes that the split table top is supported by a "cross-piece partially notched into the sides." See pictures of the table below, with arrows pointing to where the supporting cross-piece protrudes from the side aprons.

My question: How would you accomplish the notch that accepts the cross-piece? Would this be a variety of dovetail? My main concern is that I would like the cross-pieces to add some rigidity to the frame, to compensate for the lack of the end aprons. I'd also be open to hearing suggestions that don't require the cross-piece to protrude through the apron.

The table is being built in walnut with neander methods. I'd like to do the cross-pieces "nicely," meaning I'd prefer not to screw them on with L-brackets

Thanks for your suggestions!

Attachment 352298

(from Krenov's Cabinetmaker's Notebook)

The battens could be dovetailed into the top pieces similar to what Brian has shown in his various blog postings as a sliding dovetail. The battens would not need to be dovetailed to the side rails however. The 'stretchers' at the top of the legs already serve the purpose to create a solid frame work. I think you could just treat the batten interface to the side rails as a bridle joint. You could run a screw up from the bottom of the rails into the bridle to secure the top. Alternately you could use traditional means to attach the top to the side rails.