Marking Gauge - clone of Tite-Mark

[Mike Henderson]

I teach hand cut dovetails and provide tools for the students to use. One tool is the marking gauge and the one that most people like is the Tite-Mark by Kevin Drake. But at $90 each - and I recommend that they have two for dovetails - it's an expensive tool to bite off on.

Recently I found a marking gauge by Taylor Tools on Amazon that appears to have the same ease of use as the Tite-Mark so I ordered one to check it out. It's operates the same as the Tite-Mark so you can do one hand adjustments. And the cutter is the same size and with the same screw threads as the Tite-Mark so if you break the cutter, you can replace it with one ordered from Kevin Drake.

It sells for $30 so you can buy two for less than one Tite-Mark.

The fit and finish is not as good as the Tite-Mark but it works fine.

Here's a couple of pictures. The Taylor version is at the top and the Tite-Mark is on the bottom.

Marking-gauges-01.jpg

Looking at them from the end, the Taylor is on the right and the Tite-Mark on the left.

Marking-gauges-02.jpg

I haven't used it much yet but it seems to work fine.

Mike

[Tony Wilkins]

I really enjoy my tite-mark and for myself I like the quality but for those who can't afford one or for loaning purposes this looks like a good option.

[Phil Stone]

Mike, why do you recommend using two gauges for dovetails?

[Mike Henderson]

Mike, why do you recommend using two gauges for dovetails?

If you're doing dovetails and the wood is different sizes (or for half blind dovetails) it's nice to have two where you can set them for the two dimensions and then not touch them again. If you only have one, you have to keep changing your setting on the gauge and you'll almost certainly have differences in the settings.

If you're doing through dovetails and the two pieces of wood are exactly the same size, then one gauge is enough.

Mike

[And rarely are you doing only one set of dovetails. For example, if you're making a box, you'll do four, all of the same sizes. With a drawer, you need to do both sides.]

[Phil Stone]

If you're doing dovetails and the wood is different sizes (or for half blind dovetails) it's nice to have two where you can set them for the two dimensions and then not touch them again. If you only have one, you have to keep changing your setting on the gauge and you'll almost certainly have differences in the settings.

If you're doing through dovetails and the two pieces of wood are exactly the same size, then one gauge is enough.

Mike

That makes sense. Thanks.

[lowell holmes]

Mike, why do you recommend using two gauges for dovetails?

Doesn't everyone have two or three gages?

[Jim Koepke]

Doesn't everyone have two or three gages?

I have at least four plus a Stanley Odd Jobs that are used regularly. Then there are a few more for which a new home could be found.

jtk

[david charlesworth]

Two pencil gauges, two cutting gauges, three with the flat side out and one with flat side in, makes 8 in total.

Actually I have many more, but this is a result of curiosity.

It is good practice to preserve gauge settings till the work is finished. This allows for "refreshing" lines that have become indistinct.

David

[lowell holmes]

I have at least four plus a Stanley Odd Jobs that are used regularly. Then there are a few more for which a new home could be found.

jtk

I have an Odd jobs, but never use it. Oh well.

[Jim Koepke]

I have an Odd jobs, but never use it. Oh well.

It is like the late 19th century version of a speed square.

Mostly mine is used to mark a pencil line for a rip cut on the bandsaw. A combination square could do the same thing. For me the Odd Jobs is quicker/easier.

jtk

[Tony Zaffuto]

I gave in and bought a Stanley Oddjob and one of the clones made in Gettysburg, PA. They guard the shop! I also have a couple of Speed squares-use them by a chop saw for a quick refernce mark. As far as accuracy, I have two out of three that are spot on-one was a Swanson bought maybe 20 to 25 years ago and a new Stanley (color is black). The third lays around just waiting to be borrowed!

Speed squares just seem to awkward to carry in my apron-I much prefer my 6" Starret combo square.

[lowell holmes]

I gave in and bought a Stanley Oddjob and one of the clones made in Gettysburg, PA. They guard the shop! I also have a couple of Speed squares-use them by a chop saw for a quick refernce mark. As far as accuracy, I have two out of three that are spot on-one was a Swanson bought maybe 20 to 25 years ago and a new Stanley (color is black). The third lays around just waiting to be borrowed!

Speed squares just seem to awkward to carry in my apron-I much prefer my 6" Starret combo square.

Or a 6" clone from Lowes.
I also have a 4" Veritas double square that gets used a lot.

[Tony Zaffuto]

Or a 6" clone from Lowes.
I also have a 4" Veritas double square that gets used a lot.

Before Christmas I bought two of the Lowes clones combo squares, for including with other tools for my older daughters. The heads were colored blue (can't remember the brandname), blades were engraved and not painted. In giving them a closer look, I saw the "made in USA" mark, and bought two, at less than $10 each. Checked for square at home & fine!

[Jim Koepke]

It must be me, but combo squares do not get used much in my shop. When one does get used in my shop it is usually a no name 4" or a M.F. Co. 8". Not sure if that is a Millers Falls mark or some other company.

There are a couple of Union heads with protractors that are occasionally used and one rule with a center finding head also getting occasional use.

jtk

[mike v flaim]

I have an Odd jobs, but never use it. Oh well.

.
You're missing out, I love mine. Use it for setting up the height of my table saw blade as well as a general depth gauge.