Is this a remote switch set up for a dust collector??

[Brian D Smith]

Hi all,

i think i may have actually bought this from a member on here like 2 years ago but can't find record of a PM or post relating to it

i believe it is a set up that will allow me to connect my dust collect to multiple locations via low voltage phone line or similar? is anyone able to help me identify this contraption and also help me out with how to connect it.

this is what i get for buying something way in advance to when i actually need it and then putting it on a shelf with no notes or anything!

thanks in advance.

Brian

junction box.jpg

[Lee Schierer]

Can you move the green wires around so you can tell if they connect to the transformer or just run under it where they can't bee seen? A closer photo of the inside of the box would clarify what you have.

[Brian D Smith]

Here are a few more shots.

All the green grounds originate in the 24v transformer. They connect to the contactor, junction box, low voltage wire and then 1 lead is cut and open.

I tried to get a good picture of the whole set up as well.

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[Jamie Buxton]

Hi all,

i think i may have actually bought this from a member on here like 2 years ago but can't find record of a PM or post relating to it

i believe it is a set up that will allow me to connect my dust collect to multiple locations via low voltage phone line or similar? is anyone able to help me identify this contraption and also help me out with how to connect it.

this is what i get for buying something way in advance to when i actually need it and then putting it on a shelf with no notes or anything!

thanks in advance.

Brian

The object on the left looks like a contactor, the relay that switches the power being fed to the dust collector. The object to the right looks like a transformer. It likely produces low voltage -- 12 volts or 24 volts -- which will actuate the contactor. Probably switches scattered around your shop close to connect that low voltage to the contactor. Those low-voltage switches are likely wired in parallel, so that any one of them closing actuates the contactor.

But I'm concerned about you doing your own wiring when you don't recognize the devices in the box. I think you don't know enough to keep yourself and your shop safe. I suggest you find some local help who knows a bit more than you do.

[Brian D Smith]

Thanks Jamie.

That's what I thought I was just making sure. As for wiring I'm not electrician but I'm more then capable of wiring up low voltage wiring!

My neighbor is an electrician and he's running a few lines for me I'll just have him wire this up at the same time and run the switches myself. Hell I'm comfortable doing it all just takes me alot longer. I just didn't recognize the pieces sinice I don't come across them everyday.

Brian

[Jim Becker]

It's important to ascertain what the specifications are for that contactor to insure that it's appropriate for your load. (DC)

[Brian D Smith]

On it jim. I already dropped it off at my neighbors house for him to check out.

[Jim Becker]

They come in many ratings and you don't want to use it for a load that exceeds its rating. Some of them may not be marked very well, unfortunately.

[Brian D Smith]

I've noticed that.

I'm still waiting to hear from my neighbor he had to drill this week and last.

Here is a picture of the contactor label.

I'd be using it on a 3hp 220 14 amp motor. Thoughts?

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[Alan Schaffter]

The current rating as marked is sufficient for a typical 3 hp motor (in the run condition- resistive load), but according to the label it is only rated for a 2 hp motor (contacts must be unable to handle the inrush current or unable to handle arcing when the contacts close/open- inductive load).

[Brian D Smith]

Yeah ill just get a new one that fits the bill.

Thanks

Brian.