Table saw switch wiring problem

[mike wacker]

Troubleshooting from 1500 miles is always challenging but fun. I might have seen typos in earlier posts but I think I saw SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch being temporarily installed in place of magnetic switch. If you have used a SPDT switch I am sure it WILL NOT work. Pretty sure you would want to use a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw). I've done this before and it does work. ONLY Temporarily. It electrically makes the correct connections but does not provide the safety or robustness of a magnetic switch. Please replace with the appropriate mag switch ASAP. But as my son says "Run it Bub".

That being said, if you replace the magnetic switch with a DPST switch and it does not work there is a couple of ways to test the switch. Safest is to disconnect power from the saw and pull the switch out. Check continuity on the switch using a simple ohm meter. By that I mean hold the switch in your hand with NO wires connected to it. You have to do this with the switch completely disconnected. Turn the switch OFF you should see no connection (infinite ohms) between both sides of the switch. Turn the switch ON you should see positive connection (zero ohms) on BOTH legs. If this does not make sense to you, STOP, DO NOT PASS GO, DO NOT COLLECT $200 and get some help. I mean that with all respect. If the switch checks out, you got other problems. Could be as simple as disconnected wire someplace else or any of the other suggestions by posters above. YMMV.

[John Lanciani]

You still didn't answer the question that Ken and I asked; are you 100% certain that you have 240 volts on the line side of the switch or at the outlet you plug the saw into?

[Robert Hayward]

You still didn't answer the question that Ken and I asked; are you 100% certain that you have 240 volts on the line side of the switch or at the outlet you plug the saw into?

but I got 120 on each leg coming out of the switch

Having 120 on each leg does not guarantee you have 240 volts going to the motor. You said you disconnected the line going to the saw. If you hooked the saw back up with both hot wires going to the same leg, or bus, in your panel you will have 120 on each leg but not 240. Have you tested across both hot wires to see that it reads 240 ?

[Dan Friedrichs]

I might have seen typos in earlier posts but I think I saw SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) switch being temporarily installed in place of magnetic switch.

Whoops. That was my typo - the OP said DPST, and I re-typed it wrong...


In any case, I think there are a lot of logical leaps being made. The saw didn't start, so you (OP) assumed it was the magnetic switch. Then when replacing the switch didn't work, you assumed it was the start capacitor. Neither of those assumptions is necessarily correct.

I'd suggest doing as Robert says - make sure there's actually 240V at the plug...

[Alan Schaffter]

It sounds like your knowledge of motors, switches, and wiring is not up to the task. As someone here already said, it is hard to troubleshoot from 1500 miles away. I suggest having someone with the necessary knowledge stop by to check out the motor, saw wiring, and shop wiring, before you spend money and install a new motor, etc. You could end up burning up the new one and/or the new switch.