decent measuring tools

[Earl McLain]

In calipers, dial vs. digital seems sort of environment specific to me. I like my digital and battery usually lasts from April to October. in an unheated shop...the rest of the year batteries are almost a single use item so I use a dial caliper.

My first Starrett tool was a 4" double square--can barely read the markings but accurate. I've used that little thing FAR more than i'd have ever thought and will be adding a 6" at some point. Now also have a set of Starrett combination heads and a trio (12", 18" and 24") blades from PEC.

Glenn made a subtle but very important point, with Andy adding the reason--repeatability is very important, so making sure the measuring devices AGREE with each carries a lot of weight. For rough dimensions, I use whatever is handy to get close. For final cuts--I try to use the same measuring tool.


earl

[John K Jordan]

In calipers, dial vs. digital seems sort of environment specific to me. I like my digital and battery usually lasts from April to October. in an unheated shop...the rest of the year batteries are almost a single use item so I use a dial caliper.

For the most part the instruments you will make the best use of will depend on the type of things you make and the way you work.

I do mostly woodturning but some flat work, have a small machine shop area, small welding shop, and do farm building construction - I keep so many measuring tools, precision and otherwise, I can't count them.

For precision I prefer Starrett for both machining and wood, but use some others. Consider calipers: At the wood lathe precision is often not needed so my most-used calipers are $4 stainless verniers. When I need precision I use good digital calipers, eng, metric, and fractions. For most everything else with wood I prefer an excellent dial caliper that reads in fractions. I think it is graduated to 64ths but mostly what I want to know is if that thin is closer to 3/4 or 11/32.

As for batteries, I think most of the issue is the the caliper itself. I have some with horrible battery life, even when sitting unused - I've thrown those in a junk box. Other better quality calipers work for years on the same battery even with moderate use. And a odd thing: one cheap digital caliper became erratic when used within three ft of some LED bulbs at my lathe!

I find a good dial indicator on a magnetic base perfect for aligning machines and for centering a piece remounted on the lathe. In the machine shop a dial test indicator is good. I use a Starrett height gauge for machining and occasionally for setting up for woodworking, although a cheaper one should be fine for that.

I very much agree with the advice about the Starrett adjustable and double squares in satin finish - both readable and a joy to adjust. I keep a set of machinist's squares handy in the wood shop.

Another sliding rule instrument I'd hate to be without is a small depth gauge. I think it is about 6" long and the scale narrow enough to fit in perhaps a 1/8 hole, not sure. General used to make a good but inexpensive one but don't get one of theirs now - cheap in cost AND construction. I think the last good one I bought was Brown&Sharpe. I like to have several to keep different settings.

I keep both 6" and 12" metal scales handy at several machines. A good centering rule is extremely useful. I keep several other longer metal rules from 24" to 60" plus a couple of straight edges. Btw, the smaller steel rules, even those labeled stainless stay nicely at hand on one or two magnets on the front of the bandsaw and above the lathes.

Good levels an ways to accurately set and measure angles is important to me. The little digital angle gauges are great at the table saw; elsewhere a wide rule with precision angles is nice as is the digital gauge. I'd have to check the the brand if anyone is interested.

Some other instruments in the shop: the pinless moisture meter gets a lot of use since I mill and dry wood. The bandsaw tension gauge is invaluable to me when needed although used rarely. A precision Dylos air quality monitor also measures something important - the fine dust you are breathing or the lack thereof. Hole gauges, radius gauges, feeler gauges,... Some are for convenience, some "necessary", depending, again, on what you do and how you go about it. And what kind of work you are satisfied with!

JKJ

[michael langman]

The 24" dial calipers made in china for around 20.00 at very handy in the shop. That is 20.00 back ion 1990. I usually buy quality measuring tools, but that caliper for the money is an excellent buy. After all, it is just a dall caliper which is not considered the most accurate tool in the tool room.

On the other hand I have 2 Browne and Sharpe 6" dial calipers that get used all the time and are considered the best in calipers in the tool room.

[Brian Tymchak]

Various 4" and 6" double squares (what can I say, I use the heck outta double squares)

+1. I use several during a project.

I have Starrett and iGaging double squares but I can NOT recommend the iGaging tools. You get what you pay for there.

[Patrick Walsh]

At The moment I am building a kitchen full of beaded face frame cabinets and beaded rail and style doors. The CAD drawings have a number of dimensions in 32nds. I sure am glad i spent the money on multiple Starrett combo squares. Seemed crazy at the time but in the grand scheme of woodwroking tools they really are not very expensive.

Also loving the digi drive or didital readout on my planer, being able to take something to exactly a 32nd and better to be honest is a real game changer with regard to quality of a finished product.

With regard to the topic at hand you really get what you pay for. Pretty much the case for anything. I dont have a cheap bone in my body because i have very high very expectations.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Where do you live Mike, if it is near me, stop by and try some of my measuring things...

I liked the look of the Delve, but I cannot justify spending the money at this time. I do like their squares. For some things, I really like them over my other squares (and I do own a starrett). I like that particular type of square.

[Tim Cooper Louisiana]

+8 or whatever the count is on a Starrett combo square. 12" is a good place to start.

[Rich Riddle]

PEC actually came out a close second to Starrett in quality for a Fine Woodworking test.

I have Starrett and PEC combo squares; prefer the PEC. You don't have to spend big bucks for decent quality but, you can't cheap out either. My "wouldn't want to do without" list:

36" steel Veritas straight edge for machine setup
A set of 6", 12", 18", 24" and 36" steel rules that all agree.
A few 12' left to right reading tape measures that agree with the rules
Various 4" and 6" double squares (what can I say, I use the heck outta double squares)
Saddle square
Bevel gauge
Setup bars
Caliper

[Alex Snyder]

Great thread!

A little different than the "super precise" is a flat tape measure. At $12 it is an easy add to an Amazon order: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For use in the shop it is supremely handy. I can't get over how often I use it. I also use many of the measuring tools already being mentioned in this thread, but figured a cheap/useful tool is always a good addition.

[Alan Lightstone]

Anything Starrett, Mitotoyo, Woodpeckers or Incra are all good options.

+1.

I'm partial to Woodpeckers, but own all of the above, and all are top notch.

[Larry Copas]

A few thoughts on precision measuring devices.

The batteries in Mitutoyo digital calipers last for years even when left on days at a time. I don't know how they do it.

I have a cheap set of Chinese dial calipers. They see the most use. I use them for scribing lines, on the wood lathe, and any place I don't want to risk the high priced brands. If I need more accuracy I'll reach for a Starrett satin chrome mic.

I have two sets of Starrett combination squares. One is not square because somebody has dropped it. It could be adjusted with a needle file but the other is good. One needs a standard to check his working square. I keep a Brown & Sharpe machinist square in a cabinet...it only gets used to check out other squares.

One of the most accurate squares available are the old plastic drafting triangles. Only get brand name made in the USA models. They can be found on eBay and craigslist. Usually reasonable price (cheap). DO NOT trust the new made in China triangles.

Scales are hard for old eyes to read. I only have satin chrome and most are Starrett. I bought a satin chrome scale by the name of Shinwa from Lee Valley some years ago. It is by far the easiest to read and accuracy is excellent. They still sell that brand.

[Sean Tracey]

I bought a metric PEC blade for my Starrett combo square. I've had my Starrett satin chrome blade's since about 1993 and I bought the PEC blade about 3 or 4 years ago. The PEC blade was way less than the Starrett blade and it fits the Starrett combo square perfectly. Hardness is good and initial legibility was good.

But the PEC blade's satin chrome is not nearly as good as the the Starrett and has degraded with rust spots or faded. It's hard to explain, but it is not as easy to read as the better quality satin chrome on the Starrett. The 1993 vintage Starrett looks much newer than the 3 or 4 year old PEC.

I'm going to buy a 600 mm combo square and it's going to be a Starrett as it represents the best value due to durability.

Starrett combo squares and Woodpecker framing squares are really the best and most useful measuring tools out there. The value is superior good for the quality you get.

I also like my Fastcap tape measures. They are easy to read and the True 32 and Metric/Imperial versions are great to have. Do not drop them. They will survive but some of the black plastic will break off.

[Floyd Mah]

It's nice to have good measuring tools, but you need to have a good means to transfer your measurements to your workpiece. I had literally dozens of pencils in different locations in my small workshop (a no car garage) as well as pencil sharpeners. Remembering my time in junior high when I used a mechanical pencil for a drafting class, I bought a Staedtler mechanical pencil with a sharpener in the cap. Makes it easy to keep a sharp point vs trying to find one of sharpened wooden pencils among all the dull ones. $10.99 each. 2 mm lead to avoid breakage. Many hardness grades available.