Morso notching machine

[Patrick Walsh]

I feel like i noticed a thread sometime over the number of months where a user had a nice haunching setup.

I am lookingmfor people familiar with the machines. I was just about to purchase a Morso model F unit befor i realized that the blade comes to a 90% angle as apposed to a 90% andle bisected by a .75-1.0" flat spot. That got me looking closer at the dedicated Morso units vrs. say the Hoffman and i noticedmthey also had this flat spot on the blade, they also seem to have a different fence.

Bellow i will link to the type of Morso unit i found. My question is do the units come with a additional knife for a haunching as apposed to notiching or can they be had aftermarket or froma distributor?

Hoffman machine with flat spot on knife and cutter head.

https://hoffmann-usa.com/machinery/b...tching-machine

[Mark Wooden]

The Morso has a different model that accepts haunching knives, you have to make sure the one you're looking at is the correct machine for what you want to do with it.

[peter gagliardi]

The notching and picture frame units are a dime a dozen, due to limited use.
The NFXL- i think that is their acronym?- is the sought after, and extremely pricey model, it does haunching, and all the other stuff.
I put digital stops to 10' either side on mine. Expensive, but it turns it into a very fast , accurate and repeatable setup.
IMG_1150.jpg

[Bill Adamsen]

I like that stop Peter! Who's is that?

The Morso model that does haunching is typically distinguished by ... how do I put this ... oval holes in the side knives that allow pushing back on the head to include the front knife. I don't know about the Morso, but I have a selection of knives for the Hoffman and a second (matched) head that allows very small knives. The big difference as Peter mentioned is the stile width accommodated. NFXL does 8" or so wide stiles.

[Warren Lake]

have the morso and its limited at least the picture frame model I have. It cost what a saw blade cost plus came with a free set of sharp knives. It works very well cuts very clean but I dont get a flat at the front just the V mitre so have to clean out some other way. Not the end of the world I started doing this on the table saw, both the mitre and cleaning out. Peters set up looks exce;;emt something for me to work towards both for doors and face frames. If I understand it right you get some choices on the front block width. Logic tells me that you would want a set up that is as narrow or narrower than your cross rails would be. Exact size or narrower and two passes. I think my cross rails are 1 3/8 but would have to check that.

I would think for mullion and muntin strips this machine i have might work if you didnt have cope and stick sure I saw a shop doing mitres on those but would be finer tolerances and not forgiving like cope and stick on those.

There was someone on here that built a machine to do haunching, someone else who said he did a custom knife head for a mortise machine. that sounds pretty good if it worked well but he dissapeared never saw the knife set up. The custom machine made sense as well and there is least one company making a head for a table saw, then router bits which I have a mental block to however. Peters set up looks great, if that custom machine that took corrugated worked well id imagine it would be a step up from the chopper and then having a fence set up like people has better still. Think they make big pro machines for notching just not familiar with them.

[Patrick Walsh]

Thanks guys.

I thought i had hit the lottery for a minute.

No such luck.

Glad i did not take the two hour drive and bring home a machine i could not use.

If anyone has or knows of one for sale please share.

[Bill Adamsen]

The haunching is really designed for profiles - typically beading - that can't be done with cope and stick, are more complicated (error prone) to do with a radial arm or miter saw, and skill limitations prevent using a sharp chisel and notching blocks. Frankly, most cabinetmakers I know just apply the bead and miter it. The Haunching (mitering) can be used for other profiles and choosing between haunch or cope and stick is really the fabricator's preference.

To your question Warren, yes the knives/head accept different width knives depending on the width of the rails.

[peter gagliardi]

The unit pictured is by ProScale.

[Patrick Walsh]

image.jpgBill,

Beaded face frames and doors are exactly what i want it for. Im just starting a full kitchen and house full of vanities of beaded face frames and doors.

Right now im using the Kreg bit on my Festool router table for the haunch. Its not very acurate or repeatable. Im about to start the lower carcass and the intermidiate rails are gonnn kill me at this rate.

I need one of those Hoffman machines. Well i dont need the Hoffman. I have actually found i get the best results with a chisel and 45% angle jig over the Kreg bit on my router table.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Im kinda going nuts. All the joints are mortised on my slot mortiser than joined with floating tennons. Doors are haunched and mortised and tennoned together. No floating tennon. Kinda crazy probaby. Sould last a good many years. Im getting payed by the hour but man is it a slow process what im doing. The customer seems ok with my slowness so far. We will see long term..

The haunching is really designed for profiles - typically beading - that can't
be done with cope and stick, are more complicated (error prone) to do with a radial arm or miter saw, and skill limitations prevent using a sharp chisel and notching blocks. Frankly, most cabinetmakers I know just apply the bead and miter it. The Haunching (mitering) can be used for other profiles and choosing between haunch or cope and stick is really the fabricator's preference.

To your question Warren, yes the knives/head accept different width knives depending on the width of the rails.

[Jared Sankovich]

image.jpgBill,

Beaded face frames and doors are exactly what i want it for. Im just starting a full kitchen and house full of vanities of beaded face frames and doors.

Right now im using the Kreg bit on my Festool router table for the haunch. Its not very acurate or repeatable. Im about to start the lower carcass and the intermidiate rails are gonnn kill me at this rate.

I need one of those Hoffman machines. Well i dont need the Hoffman. I have actually found i get the best results with a chisel and 45% angle jig over the Kreg bit on my router table.

image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

Im kinda going nuts. All the joints are mortised on my slot mortiser than joined with floating tennons. Doors are haunched and mortised and tennoned together. No floating tennon. Kinda crazy probaby. Sould last a good many years. Im getting payed by the hour but man is it a slow process what im doing. The customer seems ok with my slowness so far. We will see long term..

Necro thread revival but interesting the festool + kreg combination wasn't repeatable or accurate as a chisel.