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Thread: Using a Router

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    MT.Pleasant,Pa. About 45 miles Southeast of Pittsburgh.
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    Using a Router

    Would it be a good idea to use an EDGE FINDER, so you can make a correct measurement when routing grooves? I'm a former machinist and to find edges when drilling holes and making slots in metal. Any other suggestions will be appreciated. Thank-You

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Longmont, CO
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    810
    which measurement? offset from the edge of the stock?

    I am not sure how you would use this, as the router will be removed from the work to change the bit, unlike a mill where you can travel the z, change the bit and be in the same spot, and you can not measure by travel. a combination square is my go to for setting up a groove.

    what would be your process?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    MT.Pleasant,Pa. About 45 miles Southeast of Pittsburgh.
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    The length. It will be either a 1 x 4 or 2 x 4, x 36" long. I guess no matter which one you use the outcome will be the same. I need a 3" space between the slots/grooves.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    MT.Pleasant,Pa. About 45 miles Southeast of Pittsburgh.
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    I would use router with a table. I think you would be able to cut the grooves better than free hand. Once set-up, I would possibly use the correct size bit, which would 3/4" diameter and the groove would be 3/4" in depth.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
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    15,332
    http://www.rockler.com/router-fluting-jig

    I used this jig to cut flutes and it would work just fine to route grooves/dadoes.

    Just be sure to cut in the correct direction when routing. You want the bit to cut into the wood and pull it towards the wood. Going the other way will tend to kick the router away from the wood and ruin your nice straight line. DAMHIKT
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    MT.Pleasant,Pa. About 45 miles Southeast of Pittsburgh.
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    DAMHIKT, Thank-You for the advice and the info on what to use when fluting/grooving.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Albright View Post
    DAMHIKT, Thank-You for the advice and the info on what to use when fluting/grooving.

    DAMHIKT = Don't Ask Me How I Know This
    Frankie

    I have a great Border Collie, she just can't hold her licker!

  8. #8
    There is almost no way to predict the accurate location of a router bit.
    Collars are rough, edge guides & base plates: same thing. Bearing are close but
    cutter diameters are never what they say they are.
    Calibrate, that is, cut and measure on scrap for every change.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    NY State
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    283
    How much tolerance do you have for the 3" spacing between grooves? Remember, this is wood so the exactness you have today may change a bit by tomorrow. Also, please do not try to make those 3/4" x 3/4" grooves in one pass, as that would be worrisome. Hope this helps a little.

  10. #10
    I've used a wiggler already but there's a big difference in say running a mill on steel versus a router on wood. Steel doesn't expand and contract like wood does. So I usually measure to the edge of the bit. Maybe that's not the right way, but it feels right to me and works for me.

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