Rockwell/Delta 37-220 Jointer Fence Alignment

[Chad Bender]

I just purchased a Rockwell Delta 37-220 jointer, 1976. The machine seems to be in quite good condition, save for a few cosmetics. Beds are flat and in plane. Knives are sharp and well aligned with the outfeed bed. No rust. etc.

However, I'm having a serious problem with the fence (which I didn't notice before purchasing the jointer). When I try to rotate the fence, rather than pivot around a single axis, it moves in two degrees of freedom. This has two effects: 1) The fence shifts as it is being tightened, so it's quite difficult to get it squared to the table; 2) the shift induces a twist in the fence, so even if it is square at the infeed table, it is out of square at the outfeed table.

I disassembled the thing, and traced the issue to a small half-ring guide piece, that I believe is supposed to be permanently attached to part of the fence mount. There is a corresponding guide slot on the fence itself. If I understand correctly, this guide & slot are supposed to constrain the motion of the fence around the central axis.

However, the guide piece is no longer attached to the fence mount - it is a loose piece. There are two bushings in holes in the mount that protrude about 1/16" past the surface, and the "mounting holes" in the guide piece correspond perfectly in location to these bushings. However, I see no way that the two are supposed to be physically connected. I wonder if they were originally press fit, and have broken or worn down.

Can anyone with this jointer confirm exactly how this ring guide is affixed?

I'm considering trying to remove the bushings, tapping the holes, and affixing the ring mount with machine bolts. But before I go messing with things, I'd like to know how this was designed to work originally.

Thanks!

[Bob Vallaster]

I apologize in advance for being one who has never succeeded in getting a picture posted (personal problem).
The answer is in your second picture. What you marked 'bushing/sleeve' are roll pins which are sized to compress and fit snuggly in a hole, in this case simultaneously in the casting on which the arc rests and through the arc itself. Your pins have been driven flush in the casting, providing nothing for the arc mounting.
I hope those pins are in through holes, in which case you can drift them out (all the way) from either side.
When resetting the arc on its casting: start both pins into the arc, drive the pin through its thickness just far enough to protrude ~1/16-1/8", then use the protruding pins to pilot the pins into the receiving holes in the casting. Tap the pins flush with the thickness of the arc, and you're' done. Note: a roll pin should have a chamfer on one or both ends to start in a hole; a used pin might have a mushroomed head from abuse. Do yourself a favor: size the hole using the shank of a drill bit (do not redrill, do not measure the pin's OD---it's oversized to crowd the hole)), then spend a buck to get new ones, if needed
I hope another Creeker can provide you a picture of the assembled parts, as it possible to have that arc mounted two ways...

BobV

[Mike Manning]

I apologize in advance for being one who has never succeeded in getting a picture posted (personal problem).
The answer is in your second picture. What you marked 'bushing/sleeve' are roll pins which are sized to compress and fit snuggly in a hole, in this case simultaneously in the casting on which the arc rests and through the arc itself. Your pins have been driven flush in the casting, providing nothing for the arc mounting.
I hope those pins are in through holes, in which case you can drift them out (all the way) from either side.
When resetting the arc on its casting: start both pins into the arc, drive the pin through its thickness just far enough to protrude ~1/16-1/8", then use the protruding pins to pilot the pins into the receiving holes in the casting. Tap the pins flush with the thickness of the arc, and you're' done. Note: a roll pin should have a chamfer on one or both ends to start in a hole; a used pin might have a mushroomed head from abuse. Do yourself a favor: size the hole using the shank of a drill bit (do not redrill, do not measure the pin's OD---it's oversized to crowd the hole)), then spend a buck to get new ones, if needed
I hope another Creeker can provide you a picture of the assembled parts, as it possible to have that arc mounted two ways...

BobV

Bob,
Not to highjack Chad's thread but read his post with interest as a new owner of an old Delta jointer. Out of curiosity, how would you remove those roll pins IF those aren't through holes? Is there such a thing as a tiny "roll pin puller"?

Thanks, Mike who is hoping for Chad's sake he doesn't need to know this.

[Chad Bender]

Thanks. That's very helpful. They are through holes, so I should be able to extract the pins.

I think I figured out the correct orientation last night. There's only one way the arc can go. If it is assembled backwards, the mount and fence cannot be integrated.

[Bob Vallaster]

Glad to have through-holes confirmed.
just guessing here. The alternative would have involved black magic and blue language.
Maybe some penetrant for a pin's OD, then a tap to bite the pin's ID without jamming too bad, then a slap hammer with a chuck applied to the tap. Try to jerk the pin out enough to get vice grips on it. Probably ruin the tap, easy to scar the adjacent surface, but cheap.

BobV

[Bill Dufour]

I have pulled a few blind pins. Find a nail whose shank fits down the hole with some slop. Grind the head away until just a small piece sticks out on one side. Put the nai ldown the hole, head first. Then hook the little tab under the pin and use vise grips to pull. You will destroy several of these home made pullers to pull one pin.
Before you start a project like this make sure they are spring pins and not taper pins. taper pins only go in and out one way.
Bill