Is that different than setting the outfeed table to the inserts?
Seems like with a parallelogram tabled jointer, it would be four adjustments as compared to six for a three blade head (2 ends X three blades).
Still not seeing an advantage...
Is that different than setting the outfeed table to the inserts?
Seems like with a parallelogram tabled jointer, it would be four adjustments as compared to six for a three blade head (2 ends X three blades).
Still not seeing an advantage...
Too much to do...Not enough time...life is too short!
Agree Andrew but I've never enjoyed setting jointer knives. Maybe it was just my technique but I'll take the segmented head either way.
I removed one of the factory installed 0.008 shims and then worked the outfeed to that. After a bunch of going back and forth I finally got the infeed and outfeed "mostly" coplanar. I say mostly because the infeed seems to have a hump right around where the control box is mounted (not sure how or why I didn't notice this earlier).
If I center the straight edge right on that area at the back of the table a 0.007 feeler rubs on either end. At the front of the table this shrinks to 0.002 but only on the rights side.
Referencing from the outfeed to where the infeed starts to drop off a 0.0015 is all I can slip anywhere under the straight edge. Seeing as how my straight edge is +-0.003 over it's 38" length, I believe this is good enough. Plus it's the less important infeed, at least in my mind.
I wish this thing were perfect like everyone does when they buy a new machine but I also understand there is a "risk" with a value priced machine. If it makes flat boards I'll be content to accept it as is. I really do not want to go thorough the effort of replacing the infeed table. Plus there's no guarantee a different one would be any better, and could be even worse.
I hope you get adjusted and cutting right.Take my comments with a grain of salt in bored right now and I like to obsess on jointers.
But atleast I'm not as bad as Van and bandsaws.
Aj