As part of a kitchen remodel I am using Mesquite for a large kitchen island, some niche mounted shelves and a small top for a pony wall. Because of the size of the island top (96" by 54") I opted to have that made and finished by a craftsman the specializes in Mesquite countertops. Seeking a finish that added to the character of the island (a reclaimed furniture look) as well as something that can easily be repaired (water rings, scuffs) the craftsman and I decided on a finish of equal part of tung Oil (Woodcraft brand), oil based poly (satin), and paint thinner. He informed me that this is a finish Sam Maloof uses and I'm very happy with the finish which he says he gave his standard 6-8 coats. It looks like the top was made years ago. I'll be using this mix for the other components I am making, the niche shelves and the pony wall top.
Here are my questions/issues..
Unless using the most pristine (and expensive) Mesquite one must of course fill voids and checks with epoxy. When using a finish that sits on top of the wood the absorbency of the wood versus epoxy is not an issue, the level of sheen is the same. With this finish the epoxy which has been sanded (or planed) flat does not take the "Maloof" so it remains dull. If I had the precision of a surgeon using a robotic scalpel I guess I could hit only the epoxy with some really fine sandpaper and achieve the same level of gloss as the finish but that is just folly. What we discussed and he agreed would work would be simply rubbing a good carnuba based past wax such as the Staples brand at Woodcraft into the top with 0000 steel wool and the buffing with a cloth. I've tested this on scrap and while I like the sheen and it does give equal sheen to both the wood and epoxy, the surface is so large I fear I'll have swirl marks like a bad wax job on the hood of a 67 sedan.
Then I started researching the Maloof finish on this forum and found this thread http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...nish&p=1717414 . Good information but as I had no issue with the finish on my island top I still needed help with the epoxy vs wood issue. On a different forum I discovered a quote attributed to Sam M... "Then I make a batch of finish that is half linseed oil and half tung oil with some shredded beeswax mixed in. I put two coats of that finish on, and the chair's finished, ready to be used." That has thrown me for a loop (or could I say a Maloop?). How much bees wax? Does the wax melt in the oil or does it need to be heated? What does he do between the two coats?
Can anyone address this?