Table saw blade on shaper

[Joe Calhoon]

Andrew, brings up a good point about fluttering of the blade. My 8" blades are a 3mm kerf and good for a lot of gaskets but for tenoning or deep cuts a thicker blade is much better. I have also found for deep cuts the slowest 3000rpm speed is better.

I should not show this picture of using a 14" blade and please do not try this at home! We had to exactly reproduce a few custom casements that were made 40 years ago by a company no longer in business. Could have had a custom router bit or table saw setup for this but wanted to get er done. Tilting shaft is good for this type work.

Note - This could be made a safer setup by building a plywood hood around the saw blade. I do have a tenon hood but it would not work with the wood fence.
14%22 saw blade.jpg

[Martin Wasner]

I'm usually the last person to get squeamish, but wow. I'd get the part started and hide behind something. I'm sure it was fine, but that looks hairy

[Van Huskey]

Larry, I was starting to develop a spoiled brat complex about always showing pictures of my Martin gear.

IMHO anyone that gets tired of looking at them needs to find another hobby or profession.

[Larry Edgerton]

Larry, I was starting to develop a spoiled brat complex about always showing pictures of my Martin gear. After a year of blood, sweat, time and money I restored this 40 year old rust bucket T23. I think I feel better now…

Shapers with the side mount table are hard to find. There are a couple tables only for sale in Europe right now but expensive to get them here.
I just got it set in place the other day. That is a newer Univer feeder that I had on the machine. I am restoring the one that came with the machine and it is built heavier and goes up and down easier than the newer ones.
I did a write up on the Canadian Vintage forum about the restoration.
Attachment 357288

I have decided to weld a nut on the top of my Univer like that one so I can use a cordless to raise and lower. With the double spindle I have to raise it all the way to get enough room to flip because it is in the middle, or when I swing it around to use on the jointer and the table is 44" wide on that shaper so a pain to crank reaching out that far. I'm also changing all my handles to long nuts and hang a flex head Ratchet Wrench on the feeder, much easier. No permanent changes except for the top of the feeder. But then, its not a Martin.

I assume you painted the Univer, could you get new stickers or are those original? That machine is something to be proud of, I'll check out the build thread when I get time.

Back to work............

[Joe Calhoon]

Martin - It was not so bad, we spin that blade at 4000 on the sliding saw and only 3000 on the shaper. With the power feed and running flat on the table I think it was safer than doing it on the saw. In hind site I would have made the threshold in 2 pieces and ran before assembly. We puzzled over how the original makers did this.

Van - Thanks, I worked my way up from the bottom on tools so I really am thankful for what I have now.

Larry - That is the newer feeder, still working on the old one.

[Phillip Gregory]

Saw blades certainly can be run on a shaper. Amana even sells a dado set in their current catalog specifically for that purpose (8" blade with 3/4" or 1" bore IIRC.) Just be careful not to run it too fast and make yourself a good guard.