#5 1/2 super smoother ala D.C. (or #7 ala A.P.)

[Tony Wilkins]

Anybody use them. I like using David Charlesworth's planing methods when I'm dealing with surfaced lumber from the store (which I'm doing a lot if lately). I don't really have a great plane for it however as I only have a #4. (That and I'm looking for an excuse to try one of the LV custom planes)

so, does anyone use a #5 1/2 as a 'super smoother '?

(I have an LN #7 that I try (no pun intended) to use that way as I understand Alan Peters did)

[Jim Koepke]

My #5-1/2 doesn't get used a whole lot. My #6 is just a bit bigger and is used all the time to smooth surfaces.

It is kind of like the difference between using a #7 or #8 for edge jointing.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Depends on what I am working on..
plane work.JPG
Stanley # 5 -1/2, type 17
shavings.JPG
Flattening a drawer front..

[Nick Stokes]

I feel like the 5 1/2 and 6 are the same plane. I have had several 5 1/2's and 6's come through the shop, and I used them interchangeably. I recently got my mitts on a LN #6, so I feel it'll serve my needs.

Here's the deal though... Using them to smooth works fine, it just takes alot longer. When I am smoothing, my project is typically done. I'm about to glue up. "Flatness" can be forsaken at this point for faster smoothing with a smaller 3 or 4.

[steven c newman]

My usage is depended on the size of the work I am doing. I have a few # 3s and #4s, a 5-1/4, a #5 set up as a smoother, that big Stanley #5-1/2, a #6c and a #7c. Just depends on what size of wood I am working on.

[Andrey Kharitonkin]

(I have an LN #7 that I try (no pun intended) to use that way as I understand Alan Peters did)

Probably, when #7 is used for smoothing it is pushed skewed. This way it effectively becomes shorter and its blade narrower. But it is hard to tell based on those scarce videos where Alan Peters is holding his plane...

[david charlesworth]

When I started, my 5 1/2 was the only plane which worked at all. My 4 1/2 and 7 were too out of flat to use at all. (UK Stanley circa 1970)

Hence the habit of using 5 1/2 for almost everything. This worked well for many years. I made improvements whenever I discovered techniques for tuning, and Ron Hock. Mostly from Fine Woodworking.

Alan Peters used a 7, his famous comment being, " the work has to be very small before the 7 will not cope." Or words to that effect.

The unloved 6 is also a cracking plane, I have had students who used these.

Any of these three will do a splendid job and I have no use whatever for the number 4 which which is heavily touted elsewhere!

best wishes,
David

[Tony Wilkins]

When I started, my 5 1/2 was the only plane which worked at all. My 4 1/2 and 7 were too out of flat to use at all. (UK Stanley circa 1970)

Hence the habit of using 5 1/2 for almost everything. This worked well for many years. I made improvements whenever I discovered techniques for tuning, and Ron Hock. Mostly from Fine Woodworking.

Alan Peters used a 7, his famous comment being, " the work has to be very small before the 7 will not cope." Or words to that effect.

The unloved 6 is also a cracking plane, I have had students who used these.

Any of these three will do a splendid job and I have no use whatever for the number 4 which which is heavily touted elsewhere!

best wishes,
David

I had the 5 1/2 in my cart last night but then took it out. Think I'm going to continue with the #7 but my weak old body may change my mind soon.

[Terry Beadle]

It may be that you are taking too thick a shaving with that #7.
A 2 thou to 3 thou shaving is about as thick a shaving to take with that heavy plane
and should let you work comfortably.
Also use a strop fairly frequently to keep it sliding smooth. Wax the sole too or use lite oil rub.
Does wonders for ease of use.

I'm just sayin..

Enjoy the shavings!!

[Alan Schwabacher]

What is the problem you are having using the #4 for smoothing? It should be a lot easier on your "weak old body", though it will not enforce flat as well.

[Phil Mueller]

I ran across one of those too good to pass up yard sale #5Cs some time ago. A little cleaning and a new LV iron/chip breaker to replace the pitted original, and it quickly became my go to for stock prep. Like you, I have had great success with David C's technique and have been searching for a 5 1/2 for awhile. Well, about a month ago, a 5 1/2 landed in my shop. It still needs a bit of fettling, but I'm anxious to see if it falls into as much favor as the 5.

[Tony Wilkins]

It may be that you are taking too thick a shaving with that #7.
A 2 thou to 3 thou shaving is about as thick a shaving to take with that heavy plane
and should let you work comfortably.
Also use a strop fairly frequently to keep it sliding smooth. Wax the sole too or use lite oil rub.
Does wonders for ease of use.

I'm just sayin..

Enjoy the shavings!!

im actually going the other way - taking a 1-2 thou shaving. It's not that I'm having trouble pushing it - just that it's a heavy plane in general.

What is the problem you are having using the #4 for smoothing? It should be a lot easier on your "weak old body", though it will not enforce flat as well.

Not really having a problem with the 4 but looking at doing a particular method of smoothing and flattening a machine prepped as shown in David C's planing videos.

[lowell holmes]

I really like my 5 1/2. It is the plane I will likely pick up. I don't use my #6, but the #7 see's some use.

I tend to use my bevel up planes quite a bit.

[Jim Koepke]

When across the river today in another friends shop my reason for not using my #5-1/2 as much as my #6 came to light. Most likely it is because the #5-1/2 is on a lower shelf and more difficult on my back to grab. Maybe some planes should be moved around to see if that holds true.

jtk

[Tony Wilkins]

Went ahead and ordered an LV custom #5 1/2 today with an extra blade. Got the 40* frog to try since mostly what I plane is straight grained American hardwoods.