Knotty Alder ???

[Scott Parks]

I'm attempting to use knotty Alder for the first time. I'm making desks, window benches, and cabinets for my kids' rooms. The carcasses will all be painted, and made from ply. But, I'll be using the alder for the face frames, doors, and drawers.

Anyway, my question is, how to treat the knots. I picked out the best 80+ bd/ft, and still have quite a few knots to be filled. It will likely be painted. I thought of filling the knots with epoxy or some sort of heavy/hard filler. If I fill the knots first before planing, I'm worried that the epoxy would destroy my planer knives. But if I don't fill the knots first, will the planer cause a lot of chipout or break the knots?

Since the alder will likely by painted, would wood filler be just fine? Any other ideas? What about Bondo?

[Andy Hoyt]

Scott, maybe the anwer is to epoxy before and after.

But I hate knots, so am no expert on how to deal with them other than to plan lumber usage around them.

Or... epoxy first, and if you get a blowout, put in a dutchman

[Scott Parks]

I'm planning on working around them. But I'm worried about the epoxy dulling my planer knives. But, I suppose the knot is harder on knives than the epoxy.

[Andy Hoyt]

I'm planning on working around them. But I'm worried about the epoxy dulling my planer knives. But, I suppose the knot is harder on knives than the epoxy.

Dunno about that. Will have to defer to someone who likes working with knots

[Tim Sproul]

Having fed a bit of knotty alder through my power thicknesser....don't worry. You can easily fill any bit of chipout that occurs.

One possibility is to leave the knots and minor surface imperfections be. Use milk paint rather than latex or enamels or such....and you'll get the coloring of paint while maintaining the 'look' of wood grain and such since milk paint can be somewhat translucent. If you want a smooth surface...I'd look to another inexpensive wood - poplar or such - or fill after final milling. Have your sander ready.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I have always filled knots after planing, with epoxy. I don't know if it dulls knives or not, but chip out of the epoxy can occur and then you have to fill after anyway

[Jim DeLaney]

When I made my Alder kitchen cabinets a few years ago, I 'celebrated the knots, and made them 'features' in the door panels.

I put tape on the back of the panel, and poured tinted (Van Dyke Brown) epoxy into them from the front, just slightly over-filling them. When cured, I shaved the epoxy flush, sanded to 320, and finished using a Poly varnish (Arm-R-Seal).

They looked great, and received many compliments from guests, as well as many of the people who looked at the house when I had it up for sale last year.

[Scott Parks]

If you want a smooth surface...I'd look to another inexpensive wood - poplar or such - or fill after final milling. Have your sander ready.

I would have rather used poplar. Problem is, I can't find it in the Denver area. I would have had to order in alder or poplar, and the salesman talked me into alder. I like the alder better, but the stock they ordered in for me was knottier than I had wanted. I'll be happy with it anyway, and I'll have enough left over for other projects.

I'll have my garage painted tomorrow, and I'll be able to start setting up my tools. Hopefully I'll get started on this project in the next couple days. I'll keep y'all posted, but I'll probably plane first, and fill last.

[Dev Emch]

Scott..

First of all, have you tried Andy at Centennial Hardwoods? They have the old place with the huge green T-Rex dinosaur out front overlooking the T-Rex project. They also have a commercial supply warehouse really near to the Jones Supply outfit by Rexal Ryall. Take I-25 to the the 6th west exit. Then hang a quick right onto Bryant street. Goto the intersection and zip straight and to the right. Then turn right and go past rexall ryall and up the street. Turn left and go to the parking lot with lots of space. I think the lot is right behind the Jones outfit. You need to talk to Andy prior to going to this facility so they can fork out a selection. All the rough stuff is kept here.

Last I talked with them, they had a huge supply of poplar as well as aldter in both knotty and select. Last I talked to him a few weeks ago, they were sitting on somthing like 3200 bd-ft. I find it hard to think he does not have the poplar. Also, the prices are not that bad in the 100 bd-ft quantities.

On another topic, are you going to the woodworking show on November 18th at the Denver Merchandise Mart?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dev not to steal Scotts thread, but where is Denver Merchandise Mart located? Also have you bought any wood from Paxton Beautiful Wood? I bought some rough ash and cherry from him that was pretty good. Thanks.

By the way Scott I epoxy the knots then plane. Haven't had to much trouble so far and it didn't seem to effect my knives yet.

[Scott Parks]

First of all, have you tried Andy at Centennial Hardwoods? You need to talk to Andy prior to going to this facility so they can fork out a selection. All the rough stuff is kept here.

Last I talked with them, they had a huge supply of poplar as well as aldter in both knotty and select. Last I talked to him a few weeks ago, they were sitting on somthing like 3200 bd-ft. I find it hard to think he does not have the poplar. Also, the prices are not that bad in the 100 bd-ft quantities.

Thanks, Dev! I'll look them up for the next project. I'm looking for some really CHEAP pine. I called every dealer in south Denver from the phone book. Austin wouldn't give me a quote until I told him I was a contractor . But even then, they wanted $3+. Paxton contractor's price was $2.80. I bought my Alder, ordered through the owner of Woodcraft, for $2.31 with a minimum of 100 bd/ft. (But only took home 83).

I need some sheet metal, and another contractor told me to go to a place maybe called contractor's supply? Which I think is very close to where you are describing.

On another topic, are you going to the woodworking show on November 18th at the Denver Merchandise Mart?

I don't know, yet. I went last year to check out a MM S14, vs Laguna SE14. Didn't buy either one. Otherwise, I don't see a need to go this year. My tool budget is blown... Just put in an order to Festool, and I'll be ordering more before XMas...

but where is Denver Merchandise Mart located?

Its just off I-25 north of I-70 (east of I-25). Approximately 54th st. Google it, and you'll find directions.

[Dev Emch]

Bernie...
The Denver Merchanise mart is located on I-25. Now I usually take I-25 south from Boulder until I get to the 54th exit. Hang a right and then take the overpass *OVER* I-25. The DMT is right there and you hang a right to get in there.

No, I have not bought anything from Paxton. Centenial supplies lots of outfits and offers wood to both the hobbyist and the mass wood consumer. They have a full bore Wynig moulder and should it be needed, can knock off any final profile you need for a reasonable fee. They are good with the 100 bd-ft discount rule. And Andy likes the business and is a no nonsense kind of guy.

When it comes to metal including sheet metal, you may wish to try Den Col Supply. They have lots of the non exotics. They are off of washington street. I-25 to I-70 east via the mouse trap and then hang a quick right onto washington street, zip under I-70 and Den Col is right there. Dont know what kind of sheet metal your after.

I usually go to the woodworkers show for entertainment. Isnt that sad. That deserves a "Dude, Get A Life!" comment. No really, there are some good things. For example, there is the guy who has a collectors wood supply business in southern colorado. He brings his freightliner full of cool, unusual lumber to the show. Curly maple and nice cherry was on the menu last year. And of course, there was the typical turners blocks, etc.

Toolwise, not much of interest and my tool budget has also been strained. But it helps to see whats new with LN and DeNab. He is always a blast to talk to. And I need to snag some photos of drum sanders or belt sanders. I may be designing and building my own version so I need to do some industrial espieonage. And who knows, maybe there will be that occasional trinket worth snagin. Have not decided if I am going or not myself at this point.