Burning Cuts

[Wayne Lomman]

Tear out is not caused by a rotating blade. It will be some other reason. Proper industrial saws switch on and run all day without tear out. Vibration, run out, imprecise slides, incorrect blade geometry, blunt blades etc cause tear out. Cheers

[Lee Schierer]

I would recommend getting a dial indicator and mounting it securely to the table and then checking for side to side play of the entire carriage. Burning is generally caused by an alignment issue.

[Mike Kees]

I have set up and played with a couple of different sliders. To me it seems that your problem could be as simple as getting your fence aligned for a true 90 degree cut. My first slider was a delta sidekick and I would have to go thru it and adjust everything about every 2 years. I would get those burning cuts when it was out of square or my blade was dull. The dial indicator advice from everyone else is good ,just be sure your fence is dead nuts square first. Good luck,Mike.

[Chris True]

An out of square fence has nothing to do with burning, it just makes an out of square cut. Now if the blade is heeling, that will make a difference. Heeling is when the blade is not exactly parallel with the line of travel. Not sure how you fix that on a slider, it is adjustable on a RAS.

[Chuck Wick]

Right, the fence is out of square any time a miter cut is made. That alone shouldn't cause burns, no? I would think only blade misalignment with the slides, play in the arm assembly, or a bent blade/arbor would cause burning.

So far lifting the blade before letting go of the trigger seems to be a work around.

[Chris True]

Just be carefull with small and thin offcuts. They tend to fall back against the blade and if you lift with it still running the teeth can grab those thin offcuts and throw em pretty energetically.