Sofa Table - take two

[Derek Cohen]

It is always helpful bouncing ideas off others. I received a good deal of feedback at WoodCentral. The consensus reinforced my own thought that the position of the legs did not create enough overhang. The issue here is that if there is too much overhang, it does not become possible to add a drawer to the side ... and I really want a drawer.


Before I show you the experimentation I did, just a comment about the wood: I cannot use walnut for the whole build as I only have enough for the top. Importantly, I wanted a significant part of the build to be in hard maple, since it is to link to the newly built kitchen. So we shall stay with that.


What type of black walnut? Perhaps you can tell me. I had an approximately 2" thick board that was about 8" wide - too narrow for a single-board table top. I re-sawed it into two pieces and ended with a book matched panel about 22mm (7/8") thick. There was a large knot in the board, which ended up on each side of the panel. To reduce this effect, I chose to remove that side of the board. The result is more pleasing ...











The positioning of the legs went this way:


First, I made up a couple of templates. One for half of the top ..





.. and one for the legs ...





With an extra leg template, this is the original position ...





Moving the legs in by 50mm/2" ...





Not enough. So, moving them in by 100mm/4" ...





And that is what we will stay with.


I also increased the curve in the apron, another suggestion ...





... but I am not keen on this. It looks greater in real life than in the picture (and the original curve looks stronger with the legs moved in).


The advantage of moving the legs inward is to widen the stance, which should add to stability. This is how far in the undercarriage sits ..





A close of of the details ...





The aprons connect to the legs with a mortice-and-tenon. The left side of the plan shows the top rail dovetailed into the top of the leg. The right side shows the lower rail joined with a sliding dovetail. This is pretty standard for a drawer frame.


The apron will be built in three sections, with a pine centre sandwiched by maple. The maple will be a 4mm veneer on the outside of the bow, and on the inside provide the rebate that functions as a drawer fence and drawer blade.


There will only be a single drawer, on the left side. The other side of the table will be a solid apron, joined with mortice-and-tenon joints.


A single drawer can be made 750mm long, which will provide support for at least 300mm/12" of drawer clearance - plus some space behind for a second secret drawer, if wanted.


Any thoughts?


Regards from Perth


Derek

[William Fretwell]

The overhang seems very large, perhaps if the whole drawer was a secret it would remain so. If the drawer was moved to the front it could be wider, the apron could be deeper to provide more support for the legs. The table does seem tall for it's width.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi William

Thanks for your comment. It is much appreciated.

I have gone back-and-forth on the positioning of the legs. Much of this is pressure from my wife, since I must accommodate her needs and aesthetic sense as well. The trouble is that I am more on your end of the spectrum, and see a loss of elegance as the legs close up. I think that she (and others) have seen the other sofa tables I have built, liked them, and expect something similar. This table was conceived with a different aim - I want it to contain a drawer. That is not possible with an open frame.

So I am giving more thought to the placement of the legs while I search for a replacement for the top.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Terrance Mitchell]

Like your design. Question, will the legs curve out on 2 axis. out from the short apron as well as the long apron? I modified a Kernov design from FWW which did so and found while I could cut one curve with power tools, for the second curve on the leg I had to finish it with planes, chisels and scrapers.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Terrance

The legs curve-and-taper from front to back. The insides have a straight taper.

What you see below is a blank for one leg ...



This began as 3" x 2". The extra inch is the outward splay/curve of the leg. I decided that 2" (50mm) is too wide for top of the leg (the curve/taper begins about 3"/75mm down), and will reduce the ends to 40mm. The foot of each leg will end up 1"/25mm square. The facings of the legs remain square/straight.

The curve is roughed out on a bandsaw, and finished with a spokeshave. The straight taper is finished with hand planes.

I hope all that makes sense.

[James Pallas]

Derek I believe you could still have open or pierced aprons with drawers. Use your drawer sides as the background. Tight fitting drawer and small openings would be key. I have done this and will get some pics. The piece is in an awkward place for photos so have to work getting to it.
Jim

[William Fretwell]

Here a sofa table can be a tall table behind the sofa that runs the full length for books or magazines. You could add a second wood piece in the middle of the top to make it wider.

[Pat Barry]

My only thought on the original was the the end overhangs were very large. Of the options you included, the 2 inch pull in was my favorite - still thought the 4 inch pull in was a bit much. No matter, seeing the tables first hand I'm sure your bride knows what she likes

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks Pat. That's my favourite as well. But no decisions for a while. I need to live with the options for a while.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

I have a wooden square that I made that is similar to yours. Of course, the detailing on yours is more elaborate.

[Terrance Mitchell]

Makes great sense. The measurements are spot on. I went from 2"" to 1" and my pattern was very similar to yours. I just used it again for the second curve. I did end up with one leg a bit short but I managed to correct and hide that little issue. Good luch.